Member postings for BOB BLACKSHAW

I have all the metric dies up to 12mm, but noticed that several have the start front and back. I needed a flat shoulder on a 8mm shaft but have ended up with a small tapper, I got around this by using a small parting tool. My question is how do you know what type of die will be supplied, or do they have a special name.

Hello , how can I bookmark an article in the digital magazine using this site,the only way I can do this is to save the article on my computer.

Thanks to you both, I now understand what I have to do.

I want to put a extra light in my shed but want to connect to the original light. I have live to the light and from the light a cable to the switch. If I connect a wire from the light to the new light will this be ok, or do I go live to the other light and a cable back to connect up to the original light on the switch cable. In other words do I continue two wires in the original then two the new lamp, or a live spur of the original lamp. I've looked on you tube but the live goes to the switch and mine don't. Thanks for any replies

I have been looking at the digital magazine when at work and now I cant find a article that I was reading. It was about a Jaguar inverter and motor fitted to a milling machine. I had to log off the computer and forgot the issue, any help will be appreciated.

I have a 3ph inverter now on my lathe, the wiring up was quite simple and I am happy with the results. My problem is can I increase the torque on the motor for initial start up, when its in the high speed pulley it seems to struggle slightly when on start up. The instruction book is rather involved but setting F09 and F037 have the torque boost but I cant figure it out how to input this on the inverter. I would like some layman's terms of how to do this if anyone can help.

Now having the digital magazine and reading it on night work, I found this explained in a back issue, long time back in the early nineties. Several ideas came up, but one I remember was that a hight gauge was put on the cross slide with the correct hight worked out. I must say I don't do much on nights now I have the archive mag and has past the time so far this week.

I have had my work shed now two years and have built up a large amount of stuff in that time.One of the most useful is my set of imperial 1964 Bailey slip gauges that I brought on e-bay for around £40.00, they are not inspection condition. I've used them for stops on the lathe, parallels etc no end of uses. Also a hight gauge, my surface plate which is a 12x1/4 inch square glass and a sine bar, with the use of the gauges can mark up any angle. The Optivisor looks interesting as I use a eye glass a lot,but the focal length must be correct if using the Optivisor,I would like to try one first.

Hello Neil

I am getting confused, I took the subscription out on this forum, top of this web page

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 17/10/2017 22:46:59

I have this evening subscribed to the digital magazine but can not access the system. I registered and paid via Pay Pal then received a 5 digit number via my e-mail address. When going through the instructions a 10 digit number is required for access, I phoned the help number 0844 543 8200 but a unattainable number came up, what am I doing wrong. Its a bit annoying as I am working nights this week and would have help me pass the time.

Sad, you don't know what your missing mate

The Tin coated cutters all look a bit rough all the way up the spiral and have had minimal use, I got these from a uk outlet, not mentioning names. As for my .4mm passes I generally a bit cautious with milling and lathe but will give a larger cut from now on.

Thanks.

Hello

I have been making a simple joggling tool out of 7mm square mild steel, I used a 12mm Tin coated end mill. I needed a 2.38mm step on this so with the SX2P mill cut .4mm for 40mm long. The noise from the cutter was neighbour annoying for Easter Sunday but got one of the joggling tools done. I then got a cheap tool 12mm HSS from China done the same and it cut brilliantly and in half the time. What use are Tin cutters for, I'm not going to use them as all they do is create a noise and seem to rub on the material and not cut. Its a shame because I have quite a few but reluctant to use them.

I am like Julian hear, but I live in Bedfordshire. The problem I find with model engineering clubs is that its trains, railways etc. The politics that go with clubs can also be rather annoying , as I have found over 45 years from cycling, bowls, MG owners club,to name a few. Where I live I don't know anybody that has a lathe, so a few acquaintance would be nice with like minded interests.

Bob

I have several Hss Tin coated end mills purchased from a UK company, I have not had good results when using them. The edges of the end mills look unfinished when having a close look, rather rough edge. I have tried them on steel and aluminium but they seem to rub rather than cut. I have a Osbourne cutter from the 1970s and this cuts well. I also have the e-bay cutters from China which are cheap and on aluminum they are very good. What am I doing incorrect on these Hss Tin cutters.

I am on night shift so on the same time scale in Australia. If I had a experienced mate like Hopper and was having problems like Brian is having why involve the forum, surly contact your mate via the phone or e-mail for some help they have arranged a meeting over Easter, why do the forum need to know this. I have limited knowledge with mills and lathe work but read books and use You Tube and this forum has so far been helpful to me. I read Brians first thread and was rather shocked at the questions asked, is their a need for the lathe to be bolted down, and what is the plastic shield covering the chuck used for, and other so basic that common sense is needed.

Why did you not send the machine back to the supplier when the fault was noticed, sale of goods act, I have not read every thread here was this not thought off. When I had problems with my lathe, parts missing in the carriage, etc, it really was not fit for purpose. The machine was not checked as stated on the advertisement, but I was offered a refund or exchange, I did not take this up because of the problems I had installing it in the first place, weight etc. I fixed it myself with the parts sent out which was not difficult and now its very accurate generally, I also received a refund for my trouble. If Brian John is taking up model engineering I think he will break the record of forum posts in the near future. I suggest he takes up mixing water as a hobby, cant go wrong with that.

I have nothing better to do at the moment as I am on a night shift sitting on my backside, so I must reply to this thread and hope it will be the last. Over the months on a night shift I have read John Brian s threads and thought like many I would imagine that Brian is having a game here. What I don't like is how anybody thinking of purchasing a Chinese lathe could be put off as the problems that can be encountered. If it was not for these good value machines I and many others could not have a small workshop and tooling for such a low price in the back garden. I had a few problems with a new lathe but I took this up with the supplier and has been sorted out, the last option would have to have shared my machine problems on this forum unless of no other option. Brian said that he uses his machine everyday, but the photos of the parts that have been stripped down look like new, and no swarf , or little of it.