Member postings for BOB BLACKSHAW

Ive started to make Gerrys beam engine but have destroyed parts of the plans the other day, I have tryed to find them on the internet but no sucsess.

Any help of the web address so I can print them off will be helpful as Ive made about a third of the engine so far, the cylinder and valve parts are finished

The plans were hanging on a clip when my gas torch got them.

Thanks Bob.

I fitted the gas strut 150n, Its ok I can tap 2mm with out power on just using the balance of the strut, but 120n I think would of been better. They are cheap enough so would consider 120n for a swap later, I would recommend any SX2p owner to fit one, I've used the spring set up for three years now, I should of fitted the strut when I brought the mill, It would of made so much difference.

Bob.

Going back to Geoff's comments about the reversing switch, I tried the web site but cant find the details. Any help on the wiring please as I would like to fit one.

Thanks Bob.

Thanks for the replies.

On the video link a question was asked on what force was used and 150n was given, John used 300n to 400n,and Geoff used 120n.

It seems that the newton force is more important than actual size needed of the strut, you can measure the strut needed for whatever with a tape rule.

Bob.

I thought ordering this gas strut was going to be a simple task. When trying to order on SGS a newton force is needed, I asked the sales rep, but not very helpful.

I thought that G56 15 220 260 was all that was needed, help needed please.

Bob.

I will order a 260mm today Ron, as I will be happy for the gap between bed and collet.

But thanks all for the replies.

Bob.

Thanks for the replies,

The video, he calls for G56 15 220 260, on the thread,Another new mill its G56 15 220 250, any idea of the difference.

Bob.

I've been trying to find the Thread on a gas strut for the sx2p mill, I've seen it, and a manufactures address was given with the best strut for the mill.

Any help please

Bob.

Thanks for the replies, its the same as last post Duncans, so will give it a try.

As for the inserts are they standard APMT 1604, how can you tell good from rubbish quality, or is it down to cost, but as stated by Dave, try them first.

Bob

I was given a face mill with four gold coloured inserts and have not used it as I'm not sure if it will be any use to me.

I have used the one blade type with HSS tool on aluminium and have found it quite satisfactory with good results.

With this face mill if I face steel which is under the dia of the tool would the inserts chip, as I found on the lathe that when turning steel round with a flat the insert chipped.

With aluminium this did not happen as its soft, what minimum size steel can this face mill do with out the inserts chipping.

I would have a go but I don't want to damage the inserts, hope this makes sense.

Thanks Bob

I have a piece of slate which is 6mm thick and needs to have some holes drilled, and some small areas 6mm x 20mm for a smooth surface to be milled. For drilling 3mm holes I would of thought a masonry drill using coolant at high speed. Im not sure if I can mill the smooth surface with a end mill or not, any ideas please. For cutting to size will scribing a line similar to cutting a tile will do the job, Im asking as I only have one piece so one chance only.

Thanks Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 18/01/2019 15:00:44

When doing fine limit sheetmetal work in the 70s most small jobs were done on a fly press. Shop made guillotine, notching tools, punching holes using machine punch and dies, bending small jobs using Promecam brake press tooling, all to fine limits.

If I had the room a fly press would be top of the list, its endless what can be achieved with one with shop made tooling.

Bob

With the SX2p mill to extract the taper the drawbar needs a tap with a copper mallet, over time I know the exact tightening required to hold the taper.

Over time this must do the bearing some damage with the knocking required for extraction.

I made a tool which works well but gives such a crack I am wondering if I will be doing more harm than hitting the drawbar.

Any advice please, Bob.

As the post is on soldering, have a look on Popular Mechanics and put a search on soldering, and useful information under shop notes are available

A interesting one March 1957, soft soldering wire to pyrex glass and other materials, ceramics etc, I shall give it a go later this week to see if it works.

Im on night work this week and I spend many hours reading Popular Mechanics, a good source for information.

Bob

As I am on my 5th Gates 5m710 belt as they keep splitting, plus they are expensive to buy, these polyurethane belts look like the answer for me.

The two types, glue together or connector, which would be the best for the drive on my lathe,I have variable speed so the belt will not start with full load.

Bob

In the 70s we use to make a deburring tool from a part of a hacksaw blade. A small hook ground with a cutting angle and tape for the handel, worked great on sheet metal till you slipped and sliced the top of the thumb.

Deburring lengths of sheet steel you could actually get oil smoke from the tool, quite satisfying with lengths of fine swarf on the floor. Deburring all blanks was mandatory then, I bet its not today.

Thanks, just brought some Loctite 5926.

Bob.

Im looking for some some of liquid gasket to put in-between joints that will be air tight , and can be taken apart with out to much adhesion, any suggestions please.

Bob

Upgrade needed

Bob