Member postings for BOB BLACKSHAW

I have a Jun Air the same type as the Bambi with similar problems.

I found CJS DIRECT COMPRESSERS 01213270395 Jeremy Foster very helpful, he sent me the manual for mine which is over 40 years old, I can strip it down and look for the problem.

Bob

My MGB dash was done in the car using masking tape.l heated the dash with a hairdryer and a good result with the finish.

Bob

I put the new silver oxide battery in today but its still showing a very faint E symbol, so it looks like its finished as a calliper.

Bob..

A fraction under 8mm round bar from old printers, also I have got several 4lb round weights which I will use for fly wheels.

I have found old triangular road signs[ Footpath Closed ] buried in the hedgerows which Ive used the angle iron.

From old cookers Ive used the oven bars which are chrome plated 3mm and 6mm round

Stainless steel sheet from old waste paper bins.

Great stuff if you are making small models

Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 22/09/2019 11:33:01

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 22/09/2019 11:38:36

Thanks for the link Michael, well worth getting a silver oxide battery and try it.

I will let you know on this post.

Thanks all, Bob.

The battery is a AG13, the sort I've got are a multipack button cell, I've used them on my height gauge an seem to work ok.

They are not the best quality.

I will try another battery later to day if I have one, but I did notice the terminal the negative --- looks like its been arcing on the terminal.

Its a new battery and still hard to make out the E.

I have a old Mitutoyo DIGIMATIC calliper which must be 25 years old, it packed up quite a few years ago, so finding it again in the shed is it repairable.

When installing the battery a very dim E comes up, and that's about it, I must state that the E is just about recognizable.

If its no good then a single parallel can be salvaged, but chopping the calliper up seems criminal as its so smooth to use.

Bob.

Thanks for the replies,

I will try the graphite yarn or the Teflon tape in future, also its easier for a good fit as O rings the piston groove has to be correct the first time.

As for grade of aluminium used,I haven't a clue, as its usually aluminium that has come from a scrap bin from the industrial estates.

I was rather fortunate whilst on holiday, a ship yard near by so asked if they had any six inch pipe for a fly wheel, they cut several pieces 20mm wide, and help your self from the scrap bin..

As for the cylinder on my new engine to be made I have bronze ,cast iron and aluminium, bronze I have found difficult to drill 3mm holes 25mm deep as it jambs' up. The cast iron I've used before and have had rust issues, that's why I've used aluminium.

What grade of aluminium do I need, or is cast iron or bronze the best alternative .

Bob.

I've made my small engines with manly aluminium cylinders with viton o rings.

My next project I hope to run it on steam, so will also make a boiler for it so this will take me some time to do.

My question is, is aluminium a suitable material for steam.

Thanks Bob

I've finished a grasshopper engine and need to rust protect the mild steel parts, I don't want to paint it as I don't get good results with this.

I'm thinking of heating the parts and dipping in oil, or any other suggestions please.

Bob.

I always make a cam and make the same mistake, its not so obvious until I've made it, then think it out the realize what I have done wrong.

If I was making a hundred in a factory, not being a turner what a cockup I would of made.

I have a 3.5mm offset, so I off set 3.5mm on the clock on a four jaw chuck, but that only gives me 1.75mm offset on the cam.

Its logical to move 3.5mm and get 3.5mm, but it don't work out like that, sorry if this is a basic post.

Bob.

Others on this forum will put you right, but I used Easy - flow flux and silver solder wire from Mac Models,works a treat.

Bob

I tried the compound method when doing my end cap but failed after a few goes.

Best to silver solder the brass to stainless, mine has held with no problems.

A small torch with Map gas, or propane is a must in any workshop.

Bob.

Thanks for the replies,

I will have a look this weekend and see what's going on.

I was suppressed how cheap they are to buy new, easy to become a throw away society member.

Bob.

My Karcher pressure washer which is around 25 years old gave up this week.

The problem is that the motor is working but is not pushing out the pressure, it was working fine on the job I was doing then gave up.

When the motor is pumping it now pushes out slightly more than when on mains water pressure

Is this a simple fix or time to buy a new one, its not had a lot of use over the years still in the original box.

Thanks Bob.

If you check out the thread on the 09/02/2016 SX2 PLUS MILL ,the link by Dennis D, the photos etc is how I done the DRO, and why there is less room for fitting at the back.

Bob

Ron, I will takes some photos this weekend and put them on this post.

As for the rear fitting, at the time I found a problem so I will take a look at this as well.

Bob.

I have a 9x20 lathe with the three phase motor, I have not read all the threads so sorry if this has been said.

The leaver for tightening the belt I never use as I have found that it stretches the belt to much and will twist over on its self.

I only use three pulleys and have adjusted the motor so a tight fit on the three wheels.

I have mucked up quite a few belts before I made the adjustment, at around £12.00 each they get expensive.

Since the adjustment I've had the same belt now for around a year.

If you fit a DRO to your mill it will have to fit on the front as the SX2p has no room at the back, the other mill before the SX2p did have room.

If you need a photo of my DRO on the mill let me know.

Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 27/07/2019 13:02:52