Member postings for Matt Stevens 1

Thanks Brian.

Hello All,

I would like an appraisal of the value of my late fathers Milling machine, details below. The machine is located in the Bolton area within the UK. I do have an idea of what i would like to get for it, but what people would be willing to pay is a different thing

Please let me know your thoughts....

Chester Machines Champion Mill Mk1

• Purchased New around 2000-2002
• Not used except a couple of times since mid 2003 (due to accident preventing use)
• Geared X-axis motor feed fitted
• Bed size approximately 25” x 6”
• No damage to bed, gibs may need a little adjustment.
• Includes free 240V mains magnetic lamp
• Includes free basic DRO but no scales on Mill

Whilst on topic..... how does one calculate the blank size? So as an example, if you know your PCD is say 2", what size do you make the blank to?

Also, How do you know the depth of cut - take it from the cutter?

Wow....thanks for the rapid responses everyone, this is clearly a topic of interest to many!

I have purchased the mentioned book "Gears and Gear Cutting" but am only part way through reading it and hence some of my questions may get answered, i am not sure. However much of what i have read to date on the internet centers around how to match to an existing gear rather than where to start if you are cutting your own and can choose any range.

I am based in Canada (dictates either module or DP i guess) but i tend to make Stuart type engines and will be lining up the Reeves ME Beam at some point that has a couple of gears....that gives you an idea of the physical size and application i have in mind. I certainly can't see me making any true power transmission type applications and so that i guess rules out the low number DP (or high Module?).

I run a Myford Super 7B and a fairly small mill since someone asked on equipment.

The comment about module gears off the shelf being more readily available is interesting - that might point me this way if only because there is a higher chance of being able to make a gear for something thats broke on 'whatever' compared with DP.....

I guess i was hoping to to get down to buying the set of 8 of DPxx or Module xx which would cover 90% of needs. perhaps more thinking is required!

So i fancy having a go at gear cutting at some point yet there is alot of different cutters out there and they are not the cheapest so figure i would ask a few questions....

Lets assume that i am not trying to match to an existing gear and therefore we are a blank sheet of paper.

Module or DP? Since model engineering is typically imperial, is DP the way to go?

How do you select the correct DP range? Do i get a set of DP16, DP20, something else? You know the typical sizes of gears for models, what do people have?

Pressure Angle - Am i correct in think DP is typically 14.5 deg whereas module is 20 deg? If so, there is no question to ask once my one above is answered.

Thanks

Just as an update - Stuart have found some castings that are slightly bigger and are getting them in the post to me. Hence great service there....

However it does seem that most of the parts they have are similar to what i have....therefore i recommended a drawing amendment to prevent the problem in future.

Hi Jason - Yes that could be a good idea thanks.

Hi Derek - You might be right, but i like to give people the benefit of the doubt. It could be that there is some variance in the castings and i just got some bad ones. I asked if they can measure a few samples to check.... however if they are all bad and this has been the case for some time, then yes, i would expect an amendment drawing into the kit. What is important to me is how they handle the situation from a customer service point of view.

Hi All,

So it seems the glands provided by Stuart models for the piston rods/lower cylinder covers on the triple are cast undersize. The drawing calls for a finished diameter of 3/8" and the cast part is already less than that so impossible to machine! Of course I have finished the cylinder covers so I cannot adjust that size.

Whilst I wait to see if Stuart will do something about it (right now they are claiming they have always been like that....what, not to drawing!!), its likely I will have to fabricate something from bar stock.

Question I have is - will brass suffice or does it need to be gun metal or bronze?

Has anyone else seen this on Stuart Triple castings?

Thanks

Matt

That is what i had plans for

I assume there is little disadvantage....Other than identifying a suitable burner!

So my boiler is close to being finished! See pic below...

I would like to get a gas burner setup for this. Whilst the boiler is designed for coal, I can't help but feel gas will be so much more controllable and cleaner.

Having looked at the market, there isn't so many round burners available with the biggest I can find being 2& 5/8" diameter. Getting that and the jets, piping, canister valve etc is not the cheapest setup and so I want to get it right. The trouble is, I have no idea how much heat I need and if this is going to be plenty, just enough or not enough at all!

I will be running Stuart Models (Biggest to date is a twin Victoria, but I can see doing a major beam in the future) and would like to think this boiler is sufficient for any of those at 6" diameter and 13" tall (plus chimney) with the inside of the firebox being around 4.75" diameter.

How do I calculate what I need? OR Can you give me confidence that what I am planning will be sufficient?

Link below to burner in question...Burner

This is the Reeves 6" diameter vertical boiler. You can buy the plans and cast top from Reeves directly.

Thanks Mike - I was hoping for something commercially available but i will not rule out making something if needbe.

Did you do any kind of thread on its making? I see only a couple of pictures there....

Hi All,

My 6" diameter vertical boiler is getting ever so close to steaming up! So now i need to turn my attention to fueling it.

Whilst the boiler is fundamentally designed for coal use, i see no reason why i can't use a gas burner in the firebox so its more controllable and cleaner. The inside of the firebox is ~4.75" diameter.

Can anyone recommend a) the right size burner as i am not sure if i need to fill the space or get away with something more modest in size and b) where the best place to purchase from?

I am based in Ontario Canada, but importing is an option if required.

Thanks

I made solder rings for most things, that way it works very nicely when heated....

Hi All,

I am finally getting my boiler soldered up and nearing a point of usability! Of course i have some questions....

- I will pressure test the boiler to twice working pressure and then immediately go into adding the fittings and am sure i will want to steam as soon as possible! I have seen a couple of discussions about setting the safety valves by use of hydraulic pressure testing.... any tips here? Anything else i need to do before first steam?

- What is the best / traditional wood strip to use for cladding? I see Mahogany is common - any reason why?

- Brass banding. What is the best practice to secure the bands...i assume to solder a small block on each end, and tap one, clearance drill the other and then use a screw. However this might work but not sure how nice it looks. Is there a better method?

- How many brass bands....is there a rule of thumb like one every x inches?

- Shoe Polish - I have seen the use of black shoe polish on a toothbrush to blacken between the wood strips and bring out the grain a little. This was done after oiling/varnishing(?) the wood. Any thoughts on this practice?

- Glue. I have seen the use of a liberal amount of glue when applying the boards, yet we know the boards should come loose after some expansion and contraction of the boiler. Would a dab on a few places make more sense or do you actually want the boards to glue to each other?

- Do you need to remove the boards for annual pressure testing or any other purpose?

- Any other hints any tips regarding cladding? Thickness of boards? Anything under the cladding? etc

Images for interest....

Hi Dave,

The reason i want to use 12mm (1/2" tooling is that - thats what i have already!

However it is a fair point to say - will it be cheaper to buy a new QCTP system or to buy a complete new set of carbide tooling from China.....hmmmm

Hi All,

So i have been in contact with Myford and they have suggested i purchase the Myford ML10 QCTP kit.....apperently the only difference between the 7 series and ML10 QCTP is the relief that is cut out on the ML10 holder to allow them to sit lower. He said the website claims 2mm relief but in reality it is 4mm which is just enough to accommodate 1/2" tooling.

If the above it true, it makes for an east fix for any Myford 7 series....however i am still wary because i don't understand why they wouldn't just sell that one kit for all lathes promoting its advantage on the 7's.

Has anyone come across this solution?

**LINK**

Its advertised for the ML7, but i assume the topslide is the same between the ML7 and Super 7?

It also claims on this page that the slide can be milled to allow the usage of 1/2" tools in a QCTP....anyone seen these or got experience of them?

**LINK**

Dave - The Southbend i have is a 1939 Model C....so no QCGB, No reverse, no power cross feed, bed getting worn, no way to mount attachments to the cross slide (i.e. no T-bolts), less speed range, less tailstock feed etc. These are all advantages to the Myford which is much younger, in great condition and like i said - purchased at a good price.

Steve - I did watch your video, i see you machined down the top of the top slide quite a bit. I am not keen on that particularly, but perhaps modifying the tool holders is an option.

Jason - Understand your point about rigidity, however is it any different than using smaller tooling anyway? i.e. are they just comparable?

So it seems the main options are a) Buy all new tooling (expensive) or b) get a new QCTP suitable for a Myford with 12mm tooling or c) mill down my tool post holders so they will sit lower.

Perhaps option b) is the cleanest way to go and then when i sell the southbend, i can increase the cost by $100 to help offset. Any other ideas or am i concluding the right way?

Hi All,

So i just picked up a Myford Super 7B for a great price and with many accessories as well. It does have a quick change tool post holder, but its a real mini thing and will not accept 12mm tools which is most things i have!

I want to move the quick change tool post holder from my southbend lathe across which is much more substantial and of course will accept the 12mm / 1/2" tools.... trouble is, the height of the top slide of the Myford is such that with the holders bottomed out, i would not get to center height on the lathe!

How have most overcome this? I was hoping not to have to buy a new quick change system....

I can use the original tool post holder i guess, but thats like a down grade.

Open to suggestions....