Member postings for Matt Homer 1

Thanks Dr_GMJN....will have a read.

by the way that workshop of yours looks to clean going by the picture of the ML7.

Cant wait to retire and get me a double Garage that might look like that.

Cheers

Matt

Right...think we have a combination of....

1. 0.04mm runout on the actual MT2 test bar !... Stuck this in between centres on my Warco 250v and get the same on amount of runout at the end with dial indicator ontop of the bar. Considering it should only be 0.0002 inch run out looks like something has gone wrong with that bar ?? Still struggle to understrand it as when you put dial indicator on the horizontal i.e check tailstock alignment, very little run out at all on the Warco using the Test bar.

2. Myford Spindle outer and inner (inside the MT2 hole) very little run out at all.

3. Carriage gets stiffer as your move it towards the tailstock end so presume that is wear. However did some measurements with micrometer and only a few thou out with thickness and width of the lathe ways from what I could see.

4. with 4 jaw on and dialed in on a piece of Aluminium I managed to get 1 thou difference over 1.5 inches. Taking very light cut at the end to avoid tool pressure etc etc.

5. Will try again with a longer piece between centres and see what I get at a later date as this was the initial thing that got me looking at it trying to machine a 12 inch piece of aluminium between chuck and tailstock and getting some very weird readings all the way along.

Cross slide thrust washer kit to put on and some more cleanup/tinkering to do over coming months so hopefully might get better results or spot something.

Will probably use the Myford for light work with Aluminium and Brass and stick to the Warco WM250v for more accuracy.

As stated from some comments the Myford ML7 is 84 years old so maybe I am expecting too much and the last owner used it for Wood turning as it was in such a mess !

Many thanks for informative comments.

cheers

Matt

Thanks guys...day off tomorrow so will have another go at it. Probably work through that sheet as a starting point.

I have been restoring and trying to fine tune a Myford ML7 lathe I bought in the Summer.

Done the tail stock alignment with test bar etc and got the lathe bed as level as I can.

However getting a serious amount of run out over 1 inch (2 thou) bigger at the end and smaller nearer the chuck.

tried the 4 jaw as well as the 3 jaw tru grip chuck but still the same result.

When using a dial indicators on the horizontal plane I get about .5 thou over 8 inches which I think is pretty good. However when I add another dial indicator to the top of the test bar it rises quite a bit....low near the chuck and slopes upward. Dial indicator on the rear of the cross slide.

I did mess around with the levelling feet on the ml7 stand when trying to get everything level so not sure if still a twist /bow or that it is the spindle that is out a few thou and pointing up if at all possible.

Also get the same result if use a centre in the spindle with the test bar and it appears to rise up the further you move along the carriage / go away from the chuck.

Using a solid toolpost I made and I understand about the backlash on the crossslide (arc euratrade kit purchased ready to do that)

Thanks

Matt

Myford ML 7 mystery part ?

does anyone know what this is....came with a load of bits when recently aquried a 1956 Myford ML7

looks like some sort of indexing device but cant see anything in old catalogues for Myford parts.

thanks

Matt

Myford ML 7 mystery part ?

does anyone know what this is....came with a load of bits when recently aquried a 1956 Myford ML7

looks like some sort of indexing device but cant see anything in old catalogues for Myford parts.

thanks

Matt

Food for thought Howard ! well said

Thanks Guys...understand....I have been watching too many US you tubers.

What does the Module signify in these gear cutters. I understand the DP and pressure angles but they all seem to specify various module numbers ?

Thanks

Matt

Specification:

• Brand new

• Module: M1

• Material: HSS

• Bore: approx. 22mm

• Color: as picture shows

• Pressure Angle: 20 degree

• Quantity: 8pcs per set

Each of Gear is different:

• 1#: 12-13 Gear

• 2#: 14-16 Gear

• 3#: 17-20 Gear

• 4#: 21-25 Gear

• 5#: 26-34 Gear

• 6#: 34-54 Gear

• 7#: 55-134 Gear

• 8#: ≥135 Gear

Thanks Bill....used loads of WD40 ...tapped the plate out at the end of compound and handle and lead screw came away.

Placed collar in vice and unscrewed.

All cleaned up now and ready to put back together and see what I can use it for.

Trying to get the handle and lead screw undone in this really old device.

Looks like a lathe compund slide of some sort.

going to utilise on the mill for doing angles etc.

struggling to undo the lead screw and handle...pictures below.

Edited By Matt Homer 1 on 26/10/2017 09:54:09

That's the ticket Mick....2mm lead screw and spreadsheet works and the headstock plate makes sense along with the manual.

Thanks everyone.

Matt

ok will do when I am back home tonight.

Just been looking into cutting a 1.75 M12 thread and have looked at Journeymans info and other guys calculations for change gears ....even been creating a spreadsheet to help. Even seems the A,B,C button ratios are different to me.

sorry Metric lathe

Anyone know the lead screw pitch on this lathe please.

older versions of WM250 appear to be 3mm

cheers

Matt

Ok sorted....start 72 degrees end on 360 degrees and hole pattern correct.

Learning all the time ! except bust a cheap carbon tap off in the cylinder LOL

Many Thanks for the replies and advice.

Matt

Brilliant response ...thanks very much.

Going to try JasonB's theory first with the DRO as that now makes sense...start zero and finish on 288.

cheers

Matt

tried many times now to get the PCD function on warco D60-70 dro to work when creating the hole pattern for the Stuart 10v cyclinder covers.

Even put the gasket down to see how the first to holes lined up and spot on but tend to drift on the 3rd hole and then the last 2 are no where near.

followed YouTube ... done little machine shop calculator and all looks ok but holes do not match.

I am doing a bolt circle on a 1.125 inch pcd...5 holes...starting angle 0 ending 360 (which seems to be correct when watching you tube vids). Centre on zero bang in the Centre of cover plate.

enclosed a photo.

Edited By Matt Homer 1 on 01/08/2017 23:19:35

Edited By Matt Homer 1 on 01/08/2017 23:20:20

Just ordered another one from your amazon link.

Thanks for all your help.

Now to the rotary table !

checked GND and 12v wires from PSU and got 12v.....directly connected the wires to Sheild and no power..... into the UNO and still no power.... 12v going across the pins on the UNO pcb when I turned it over.

Bit puzzled....cant see any switches on UNO or Shield that relate to this input that could turn something on or off.

Nothing you have to enable via IDE and sketch program ?

ps I do remember a little pop when these wires touched a few days ago so wondering if this has blown something.

As I said all works fine when USB power is in. Suppose the alternative is wire up a Jack Power input and see if that works.

cheers

Matt