Member postings for Malcolm Bannister

Sorry Guys...

I may have set off a spam alert mentioning Aldi Kilroc on an ancient thread.

Please put it down to rapidly advancing senility.

Malcolm

Rik...

Pure nickel is ferromagnetic and when tarnished does indeed have that weird colour that you describe.

Ian's probably right in thinking it's an electrode (anode iirc) for nickel plating.

M

Try something like Kilrok kettle descaler from Aldi. It's formic acid based. Try it on a small area first and DON'T use it on marble or limestone.

Hope this helps.

All those links....

Saving all the useful links posted here was clogging up my favourites so I'm using LastPass to save them.

It's a free secure password manager so you can use it to store login details for sites that you visit frequently (like ME!), and also as a store for your favourites where you don't need to log in. The main advantage to using LastPass is you can get to it from any PC that has an internet connection. You can set up different headings for different subjects. If you pay a few dollars a year you can use it on mobile devices as well.

I know that most browsers carry your favoirites around with them but I find LastPass much easier to use.

A word of caution - don't forget your master password. For security reasons it can't be retrieved although you can set up a hint.

I've been using it for a couple of years and I've had no problems with security as everything is encrypted.

Hope you find this useful.

Re undoing double sided tape.

A trick I use is sticking masking tape on both surfaces that you want to temporarily join and use the double sided tape between. It holds well, it's easy to take apart and it doesn't leave any mess unless you use cheapo masking tape.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the interesting and useful info. I'll get started at the weekend.

Cheers

Thanks Guys...

I just used "Synchonome" because I hadn't heard of Pul-Syn-Etic. I stand corrected!

I recall from my days as a Lab Techie that ammonia can have nasty effects on copper and its alloys. I'll try IPA or 1-1-1 Trichloroethane, they're both fairly innocuous solvents.

I'm beginning to regret scrapping the timer part with the big brass wheel and mercury switches now

Thanks for the advice.

Malcolm

Hi Guys... I've accquired an old Gents master clock which runs OK but it's a bit mucky. I'm wondering what to use to clean and re-lubricate it. Any ideas would be gratefully accepted.

Thanks.

Malc

Thanks Neil. Just the job!

Thanks... I'll have a look at the Yahoo site.

Hi All..

Continuing the restoration of my Myford "M" lathe I've come across a problem.

How do I adjust the spindle bearings in the headstock to remove endfloat and do I need any special tools?

Thanks

Malc

Brilliant suggestions

Thanks very much.

Malc

I've had issues with old rubber cable before. Some seems to last for ages and other stuff just crumbles after a short while. Must be down to different compositions.

Edited By Malcolm Bannister on 19/04/2015 13:14:02

Hi All...

I have four vee blocks that are extremely rusty. It's not just fine surface rust - it's quite crumbly but they aren't too pitted.

I can clean up the flat faces ok with fine wet'n'dry on a sheet of plate glass. I don't want to risk damaging the surface plate. I'm not sure of the best way to clean out the vees safely. One idea is to wrap wet'n'dry around a square HSS blank and rub carefully. Any other ideas would be gratefully received.

Cheers

Malc

Hi All...

I'll stick with the Norman tool holder for now. It's not much of a hassle to change tools now I've made some shims to drop round the tool holder post for different tool heights. I'll get round to drilling and tapping it for a height adjustment screw as this doesn't have one - unlike the pics that I've seen. Besides, QCTPs and four way tool holders cost a bomb and I'd sooner spend the money on tools and stock.

I've got an idea a tool centre height gauge involving brass rod with a neodymium magnet inset into the base.

I ground a couple of tools today and they work OK. The grinding wheels are in a bit of a state so I need a wheel dresser. Any suggestions for a wheel type versus a diamond type?

Thanks to everybody for their tips and comments. It's making my learning curve a bit less steep!

Malc

Hi Steven...

I make copper and bronze jewellery brazed with a copper/silver alloy rod. I use a small cook's blowtorch something like this for small stuff: -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Butane-Creme-Brulee-Cooking-Cooks-Micro-Blow-Torch-also-Soldering-Lighter-/191487333413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2c9588d425

or you can get them from Aldi/Lidl sometimes. They refill from a standard aerosol type can.

For bigger stuff and annealing I use one of these: -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Ignition-Butane-Gas-Blow-Torch-Flamethrower-Burner-Camping-Welding-BBQ-/261851620361?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cf792a409

They use cheap gas cannisters like the ones you use with camping stoves.

The eBay items are OK if you're prepared to wait for delivery.

For really blasting big stuff for annealing I use a Bullfinch plumbers propane torch with the small refillable cylinders.

Sorry I haven't found how to do a proper link yet. Advancing years I guess!

Hope this helps

Malc

Hi All...

Thanks very much for all the informative replies. It's most appreciated. I think I'll stick with HSS as I have lots of tools and blanks. Dad-in-law used to be a fitter and toolmaker and I'm still finding stuff in the drawers in the garage! I've also found a box of milling tools so a milling attachment might be on the cards.

I'll have a go at grinding a couple of tools at the weekend and see how I get on. I'll also have to make a parting tool holder, although I can grind one for small diameter work. I've seen a few simple designs that shouldn't be beyond my present capability!

Cheers

Malc

PS How do I remove the banjo from the Type "M". There's a spacing collar missing from behind the adjusting slot so I've wedged a bit of steel in the gap to avoid breaking the casting when tightening it. I've turned a new collar but I need to remove the banjo to fit it. I don't want to try to remove the stud in case it shears off. I've tried pulling it off but it only comes out so much. I can't find any grub screws or clamps but maybe I'm not looking or pulling hard enough.

Edited By Malcolm Bannister on 16/04/2015 12:52:06

Hi All...

I've started to use dad-in-law's 1948 Myford "M" and I'm wondering there would be any advantage in getting some brazed carbide or indexable tools or just stick with the couple of dozen HSS tools and blanks that I already have (6mm and 8mm).

I've never ground lathe tools before but there's plenty of advice here and elsewhere so I'm pretty confident I can learn.

On another tack, has anybody any idea where I can find a lantern tool holder to replace the Norman that's on the lathe?

Cheers

Malc

Hi John..

That's the stuff.

Cheers

Malcolm

Hi all.

If you're dismantling magnetrons, be very careful not to chip or raise any dust from the insulation. It contains beryllium oxide which is nasty stuff.

HAZARD SUMMARY

* Beryllium Oxide can affect you when breathed in. * Beryllium Oxide is a CARCINOGEN--HANDLE WITH EXTREME CAUTION. * Contact can cause eye irritation, redness, itching and burning. * Beryllium Oxide can irritate and burn the skin. Higher exposure may cause skin ulcers to develop. * Breathing Beryllium Oxide can irritate the nose, throat and lungs. * High exposure can cause bronchitis and/or pneumonia with fever, cough and shortness of breath. * High or repeated exposure can cause permanent scars in the lungs with fatigue, weight loss, poor appetite and shortness of breath. Lung damage and heart failure can occur years later.

IDENTIFICATION Beryllium Oxide is a white, odorless powder. It is used in the manufacture of ceramics, glass, electron tubes, electronic components, nuclear fuels and nuclear moderators.

Just so that you're aware.

Malc

Edited By JasonB on 09/04/2015 16:55:42