Member postings for Dave Halford

That one is 2 CFM FAD, which is the real air delivery.

This is from a random search Air compressor reviews

The 5724 might end up more useful.

Gear side photo so the other side of the pulley, there's a spiral of little black spots

Looks like there's a crack on the pulley side as well.

OBD 2 readers are both generic work on engines 20years old and cheap enough, however they only work on the engine systems. Anything else like lighting or traction control etc is maker specific and costs an arm and a leg.

I would buy a 14 x 1.5mm tap and a disc of 6mm steel plate or cast iron and machine as required.

Farm supplies Molasses is £9.50 for 5L

Oddly back in the day I had an Aussie Ford Falcon Fairmont. It had composite wheels with alloy centres and steel rims without any issues, whereas Landrovers alloy door panels on steel frames would corrode where they touched.

A member has one.

You are both wrong, anyone from London knows that the North starts just past Hatfield.

The tiny spindle bore.

I had the same issue with a Centec horizontal spindle bore not matching the arbor that it came with. I found M6 studding fitted, welded a bit of bolt that fitted the arbor to one end and made a long M6 nut for the back as studding is usually a loose tolerance.

That things huge and takes up so much daylight, so why would you?

Complete junk m8, I'll pm you my address and i'll safely dispose of them into my cutter drawer.

All you need to do is check the pointy bits are still sharp as that's the first place they go. No one keeps pristine cutter boxes to the throw the old blunt stuff away in. Those are new.

I remember that one Martin - respect.

Here's a man to emulate with an A series, no photo of the original metallic green version. The only 1300 that had to run against cars 3 times the capacity.

Spade bits are more for drilling glass.

Any carbide twist drill will do

The two holes are the carb side the oval would match the blower intake shape essentially like your existing manifold only dropping the carb height and except the blower end would be a single oval port.

Can I suggest that as you haven't cut the blower yet and IF there's room, that you try fit an 90deg elbow on the pipe flange (and a blanking plate on the other hole if it fits) your existing SU will do for size.

The reason is SU's are known to work well on blowers and there's a lot less trouble with jetting (you can get a Gunson Colortune to check the mixture is in the ballpark. Some of them even had electric heaters to combat the icing.

So why not use a chunk of 40mm thick alloy and angle the ports down 45deg to drop carb or leave the blower un cut and use an SU on a 90 elbow and block the other blower port with a plate? Though that might put the hydraulics in the way.

My visualisation of mini bonnet space is of course now 50years old

As Jason says you can whittle that just as easily with hand tools and drawing around a card gasket.

Side draft Webers were not a popular swap for minis back in the day due to the need to cut the firewall. Inserting a Merc blower in there at least fixes the issue of the carb trying to swallow the speedo.

However why the u-tuber strangles the air flow into the blower so much with all that weld instead of lifting the carb plate up an inch and use all of the slot + the unequal length outlet ports from the plenum. Mind you he does say the kit that he sells is different so maybe you are supposed to try DIY then give up and buy from the 'expert'.

Note the working distances on the Axminster ones, all the others will be the same.

That is just similar to having to be 'signed up' on here to post, otherwise I couldn't view and make posts on TT, which I still can BTW so not a recent change.

It has to said that TT has always been almost glacial on signing up approvals which doesn't exactly encourage new blood.

Edited By Dave Halford on 19/01/2022 10:20:45