Member postings for Kiwi Bloke

'Progress' makes us merely pawns. The only answer is to refuse to play the game...

Don't read this if you can't abide grumpy old men ranting.

We have been looking for a new car. We have a Toyota Land Cruiser (100 series) and a Honda Accord, both bought new in 2005. Both have provided excellent, reliable service, have only about 160,000 km on the clock, are in good condition and are rust-free (a benefit of a benign climate). I have full, official workshop manuals, mostly obtained decidedly unofficially - and free! - however neither manufacturer will now sell me manuals (Toyota were happy to in 2005). I have therefore been able to maintain the vehicles myself and have carried out the only (thankfully minor) repairs necessary. I'm not scared of major mechanical work. There seems no reason why the vehicles should not continue to go on satisfactorily for years, and although reliability can't really be expected to remain almost perfect, I could probably cope with most repairs. So why look for a new car? Because our needs and preferences have changed: we don't really need the 'truck' or a 'sedan' these days, and hardly use either, because our go-to car is a Honda Jazz (economical, versatile, comfortable and dog-friendly). It's not exactly a compelling reason, but it turns out that the trade-in value of the Land Cruiser is massive (depreciation works differently in NZ), so that encourages the idea of change, which would therefore not be expensive - in the short term, at least...

OK, so look for a new vehicle. The problems and frustrations rapidly mount. Getting workshop manuals seems impossible (although I haven't yet fired up the TOR browser to see what's available on the 'Dark Net'. Even with manuals, modern vehicles' electronics and complexity are a nightmare, and it seems that the designers pay scant regard to the ease of working on the vehicle. From what one hears, garages don't intelligently repair, they just substitute major components until the problem disappears. If their diagnostic software doesn't provide the answer, they are at a loss. So the hapless owner is completely at the mercy of the manufacturer and its agents, whose competence cannot be assumed. I have sorted out friend's vehicles that garages couldn't - or which they damaged. It doesn't take many mouse-clicks to discover that manufacturers prefer to deny problems - especially during the warranty period - until the tide of disgruntled customers and/or a class action forces them to take action. Meanwhile, customers are driving troublesome, perhaps dangerous vehicles, as unpaid reliability testers.

The new vehicle search produced a favoured candidate (medium-large SUV), so we played with it for a 24-hour test. Most impressive, except that it is full of non-optional driver-distracting features, masquerading as 'driver aids'. And they don't work! Quite frankly, anyone on the road who actually needs or significantly benefits from the assistance of 'adaptive' cruise control, lane-keeping steering nudges, road-departure warnings, vibrating steering wheels, slow-speed following, 'brake hold', autonomous braking under the guise of 'collision mitigation', and driver-awareness monitoring shouldn't be driving. The manufacturers' implementation of this 'your car knows best' philosophy insults the competent driver and encourages the incompetent to drive when they shouldn't.

Eventually, one can discover how to turn off most - but not all - of these intrusive 'features', but the cruise control resolutely remains 'adaptive': during our test driving it saw danger where there was none, and sometimes unexpectedly slowed the car, even to a standstill, by firm braking, exposing one to the risk of being 'tail-ended', or of being considered an idiot driver by the following traffic. It enhanced neither safety nor comfort. The 'adaptive' bit can't be disabled, to provide 'dumb' cruise control, even though one would have thought it would require only a trivial amount of code. This techno-bloat is presumably because it is so cheap and easy to add 'features' in software, and any necessary electronic hardware is cheap too.

OK, so consider a different vehicle. Guess what? The tech. arms race means that all the competing vehicles have the same suite of billshut 'safety features'. Aargh!

Well, rant over. I'm not expecting advice as to what to do, but invite comment from others. Is it me, or have things got stupid?

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 26/03/2021 08:23:11

I'm in a similar position. Linux's compatibility with up-to-date hardware is much better than it used to be. Unless you're going for some bleeding edge gear with exotic chipsets, it will probably be OK, although occasionally silly things like a finger-print detector module won't have a Linux driver, so won't work. You should be able to test the thing out with Mint on a USB stick (if the shop will let you).

I searched 'Linux Mint hardware compatability' and got this **LINK** as the first hit. There's plenty more on the various fora... I'll be looking soon, when I decide to buy the boss her new laptop...

Having said that, older gear works far better with Linux than with bloated Windoze! So end-of-line deals may be an option, if buying new.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 23/03/2021 10:09:33

Weren't the F1 'grenade engines' used for qualifying in the 'turbo years' of the 1980s capable of > 1,000bhp, from a capacity of 1.5 litres? OK, four-strokes, not 2-stokes...

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 12/03/2021 08:39:34

Very many thanks everyone - exactly the info. and insight I was looking for. What a wonderful forum!

This is a question about theory, not implementation. I think it's been addressed in a previous thread, but I haven't found it.

In applications such as 'digital leadscrews' or 'digital dividing' apparatus, calculations involving irrational numbers may be repeated many times. The results of the calculations can only be (to some extent) approximations, so repeated calculations will cause error to accumulate. Typically, the results of such calculations will be used to drive a stepper motor. A suitable gear train is free from such error. I accept that, for practical purposes, calculation and electronics can produce accurate-enough results, but wonder if there's a numerical, computational approach that avoids cumulative error.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 25/02/2021 08:22:30

Jason - done. Thanks.

I've received three PMs apparently relating to what I would have thought were not-very-interesting threads and which have seen no activity for a considerable length of time. I haven't opened the latest, but the other two didn't seem quite 'right', apart from being in broken English. The senders do not have public profiles (neither do I...), so they remain mysterious.

If one does not reply to PMs received on this forum, can merely opening them to read result in anything unwanted? Has anyone else experienced similar?

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 23/02/2021 00:30:13

Do you have the equipment to make pins that fit the holes with 'zero' clearance? If so, measurement and maths is straightforward (as you clearly know).

For a more versatile method - again assuming suitable equipment is to hand - produce a couple of pins of smaller diameter than hole ID. Fix these, truly vertically, into a pair of blocks or plates, so that their upper end is accessible. The idea is to stop the pins from wobbling, to keep their axes parallel to those of the holes (assuming the holes are made normal to the surface). Then measure the 'outside' distance across the pins, as the pins are forced into contact with the 'inner' walls of the holes; measure the 'inside' distance between the pins, as the pins are forced into contact with the 'outer' walls of the holes; measure the pin diameters; do the maths.

To be pedantic, these measurement methods don't directly measure the distance between the holes' central axes, as the threads may not be truly coaxial. If you are asking about that, I can't think of a method at present...

Nearly all copper and zinc corrosion product will be soluble in household amminia solution.

I think that ammonia-containing preparations are used to remove copper fouling in gun barrels. This suggests that the elemental metal is attacked by ammonia. My school chemistry has corroded almost entirely away, so can't remember what the chemistry is. It doesn't sound risk-free for jet cleaning if ammonia attacks Cu.

One is warned not to use ammonia-based cleaners in stainless-steel gun barrels - why not? What's the chemistry here?

If you know you are going to remove and clean the jet how about removing it after use and storing it in the dry until needed?

Well, there two jets and an emulsion tube, and it's a pain to dismantle, and I'm lazy. Prevention would be better, but your suggestion would certainly save time, and I can't fault the logic...

Uh, sorry - I have the book, but not as a .pdf. [note to self: read the question carefully...]

Yes, I have the book. Frankly, unless you want the book 'to complete the set', I wouldn't bother to seek it out. It contains very little that is specific to the Cowells machine, except a screw-cutting chart and parts diagrams. If you're new to lathes, you won't learn enough from this book: if you're not a newbie, you don't need it.

The owner of Cowells is/was very approachable and helpful. If you need any specific info., I'd expect you would get a good response from him. You might also get a copy of the book from him. And, of course, there's a mine of info. available right here, on this forum - just ask.

I have one, but don't remember noticing a maker's name. To elaborate Oldiron's post, if uncertainty persists, the small dia. rod, lying adjacent to the corner of the base casting, fits into the clamp already fitted on the vertical rod. A dial indicator is clamped onto the small-dia. rod. It's a very high quality, and rigid, stand, for use primarily on a surface plate. Horribly expensive new!

I guess that the greenish 'corrosion' might be a form of verdigris - a term covering several possible Cu compounds - but I doubt that it's due to a copper oxide, which should be reddish or black, not greenish. If atmospheric oxygen is contributory, however, in the relatively complex corrosion chemistry, perhaps it's a mistake to drain the carb between uses. If corrosion is because of the petrol's water content, perhaps one should drain. I don't think I'll be successful in obtaining ethanol-free petrol here - but I will certainly try, it sounds like a very good idea.

Anyone know how to safely remove verdigris?

I'm sure the advice to run the engine more frequently is likely to be successful. It's what I've been trying to remember to do, but...

Excellent idea! I'd never thought of trying to search within multiple files - aren't computers clever!

Looking to see whether there was a solution for Linux, I came across Recoll. It looks promising, particularly because it can handle multiple file types. It's available from Mint's software repository, but is a slightly elderly version. I'll upgrade if it seems necessary. Versions available for Windoze and Appall's expensive OS too.

Hi Folks,

Because our electrical power supply is not 100% reliable, we have a small generator, for occasional use. Every time it's needed, it won't start until I've whipped off the carb and cleaned greenish corrosion(?) off and out of the brass(?) jets. This is in spite of draining the carb's float chamber after each use. The deposits are hard, and don't dissolve in sprayed-on carb cleaner, which is why I suspect corrosion rather than gum deposition. Typically, it's months between uses. It's a four-stroke engine. It's said that Kiwi petrol is low-quality stuff, but I don't know whether it's more prone to form gum and varnish or corrosion on standing: perhaps it contains more water than desirable.

Two questions. Does 'fuel stabilizer' prevent this sort of problem - if it's corrosion rather than 'varnish' build-up? How would one clean the jets safely and within say one hour (and yes, I know better than to poke around with wire, etc.)?

As usual, Windoze arrogantly assumes it's the most important OS... Linux's bootloader will have been corrupted - or worse. There are many, many tutorials on how to restore Grub (the bootloader). Search around for one that looks most user-friendly. Try this: https://askubuntu.com/questions/88384/how-can-i-repair-grub-how-to-get-ubuntu-back-after-installing-windows

It might be worth reminding folk who want to set up a dual-boot Linux/Windoze system that Linux should be installed after Windoze, so that the Grub bootloader is installed. If done 'tother way round, Windoze's bootloader just ignores Linux. It is possible to rescue such a situation, by messing around with Grub, but it's obviously more convenient to avoid that, if possible.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 14/01/2021 20:02:52

Just a couple of points, because I don't think they've been mentioned yet [apologies if I've missed something].

1. If you can persuade Windoze to pack all its files, etc. tidily onto the HDD, so that it can be partitioned without data loss, it's easy to set up a dual-boot, Windoze/Linux machine. You can then cause havoc on the Linux partition(s) with impunity. [Well, that was the case, and I'm pretty sure it still is - I know nothing of Windoze post XP, which is when I dumped the ghastly OS to be 100% Linux.]

2. It's not universally known, but you can easily get the RPi, from 3B onwards (IIRC) to boot from a USB disk, so a used laptop HDD - or several - can be used for Linux experimentation, without fear of buggering up anything important. Far easier than using the SD card, in my experience.

Joe. A man of your obvious abilities should convert to Linux immediately! It's the thinking man's OS, and isn't difficult these days. Since you can have Windoze and Linux on the same machine, you can still run your favourite, expensive, applications on that bloated, expensive OS, if you really need to... Oh, and for heaven's sake retract your offer of free RPi's, or I'll be sticking my hand out. Hang on to them - they are too valuable, once the Linux hump has been got over!

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 05/01/2021 10:24:20

FWIW, a few tips for beginners...

Watching closely the weld pool can become hypnotically fascinating. All your concentration is focussed there, but you can end up staring at it, without really taking in any useful information - there's a lot of changing information in the picture, which is challenging to take in all at once. Before you reach the stage of 'unconscious competence', you need to reach 'conscious competence' and be conscious of what is really important to observe. I'd suggest you really need to concentrate on watching three things (for ferrous welding, at least):

1. Watch the weld pool width (across the direction of travel). Aim to allow the pool to grow to the same size as the previous pool, then add filler and move the same distance as before. This gets you nearer the 'stack of coins' appearance that's so pretty. This deliberate 'stop-start' torch movement is easier to control than a continuous movement. And easier still if you can use a slow pulse technique.

2. Watch the downwards penetration of the visible leading edge of the weld pool (applicable when there is a gap or vee between the pieces to be joined). Aim for consistent depth. Do make sure the pool isn't just sitting on the parent metal surface.

3. Watch the electrode position. Keep it at the recommended distance from the work and beware sideways wandering.

Magnification really helps. Spectacles and light leaking in from behind your helmet are a really bad combination. If you can't get, or don't want a magnifying lens for the helmet, get close.

Life is easier with a gas lens, and it saves gas too.

Of course, there's no substitute for good tuition and practice, practice, practice, but short-cut hints hopefully help...

I'm another satisfied user of the Nu T belt - on the primary drive on my Super 7. These belts do stretch until they stabilize, but, as has been said, removing a link is easy and quick. I don't think it's been mentioned that they are supposed to run only in one direction, but, in practice, reverse running is OK. They are noisier than a sweet-running V belt, but don't seem to have the problem that some V belt drives can have, when a too-slack, vibrating belt is tightened, only to 'drum' annoyingly and incurably. This is said to be because of the link belt's higher internal damping characteristics. One might therefore expect a link belt to run hotter than a V belt, but, perhaps because of its greater flexibility (than some types of V belt), this doesn't seem to be a problem in practice. And they don't seem to degrade. I don't know whether they wear alloy pulleys more than conventional V belts though.

The rivetted Brammer belt is perhaps best regarded as obsolete. I have a sneaky suspicion that the rivet-contacting-pulley problem is because the wrong section belt is sometimes sold.