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Member postings for Stephen Fuller

Here is a list of all the postings Stephen Fuller has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Sealey Drill Motor - Electrical help
04/04/2015 09:29:44

Thanks for that suggestion Colin and Les but as the motor still runs nicely it is probably best if i stay outside it.

Steve

03/04/2015 16:04:33

Les I have now done what you said and the lamp did not light, so assume, as you say, the connections must be inside the motor. I shall seek a mechanical means of reversing DOR. Thank you all for your help

Steve

Edited By Stephen Fuller on 03/04/2015 16:07:56

03/04/2015 12:07:10

Hope these pics help and thanks for the posting help

Steve

03/04/2015 12:02:31

wp_20150322_09_24_21_pro.jpgwp_20150322_09_24_06_pro.jpgwp_20150322_09_23_45_pro.jpgwp_20150322_09_23_36_pro.jpgwp_20150322_09_23_07_pro.jpg

03/04/2015 07:36:00

Have tried to upload pics of motor but have not succeeded yet. It doesnt help being away with work for two or three weeks at a time. Also my IT man(11 year old grandson) works out very expensive. Will keep trying< thanks for comments so far.

Steve

22/03/2015 07:23:15

Thanks Dave will try to post necessary info asap.

Steve

Edited By JasonB on 22/03/2015 07:45:49

21/03/2015 21:06:52

Electrical help requested

I have a 0.5 hp induction motor (240 volt) that was fitted to a Sealey drill press. Is it possible to reverse the D.O.R by swapping the wires over. Would like to use this motor to power a small vertical milling machine and it would make life simpler if it ran the other way. Steve

Edited By JasonB on 22/03/2015 07:45:11

Thread: Alba 1A shaper - my new little lady
28/01/2015 18:49:02

Absolutely superb, you have made a lovely job of her. be nice to see some pics of her in action

Thread: identifying brass from bronze
20/01/2015 16:34:26
Posted by Bogstandard2 on 14/01/2015 08:01:22:

There are more different bronzes and brasses than you can shake a stick at, and really, it has to be left to the supplier to be honest with you and tell you what it really is.

The general purpose bronze would be PB1, which contains some lead to make it easier to machine, or another is Colphos, slightly more expensive, but is the one I use if I have a lot of bronze parts to make, it machines a dream.

Both of these are good enough for making bearings or steam components from, and in my opinion, if you can, stick with those two, you can't go far wrong.

Normal bronze has a reddish tinge, also, if the outside of the bar is untouched, the bronze usually has a faint dark spiral running along it's length, this is part of the manufacturing process.

I use another bronze called aluminium bronze, and even though it makes superb bearings and has great wearing properties, keep away from it if you want to maintain you sanity. It can usually be detected by being lighter in weight, light in colour (sometimes almost yellowy silver) and usually is slightly magnetic. Unless you machine it correctly, you will just end up with a hard lump of metal that resists almost all machining techniques. That is it's beauty, and downfall.

John

Any tips you may have for machining aluminium bronze would be most useful

Steve

Thread: Help on key for 4-jaw chuck needed
20/01/2015 16:16:00

I think the spring would drive me completely round the bend, would have to remove it.

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