Member postings for Gas_mantle.

I seem to remember hearing the police turn a blind eye if you are over the limit by 10% + 2mph but I'm guessing that's not the answer you want

Thanks Baldric,

It sounds like what you say about the way they count the components makes sense.

I've really got to get a set, I've only had a bench drill for a week and made myself a few simple clamping components of my own to get started, they work fine for now but I could do with a 'proper' set as I'll possibly treat myself to a small mill in a couple of months.

Peter.

I'm looking to buy a set very shortly and noticed these 2 :-

**LINK**

**LINK**

They look very similar to me but the first is a 52 piece set for £45, the second says it's a 58 piece for £37 ?

Anyone know if it's a misprint and they are the same ? Is the second one really better value or is it poorer quality ?

Hi,

I asked a similar question a few weeks ago and got numerous helpful replies.

The thread is here :-

**LINK**

Here's my few :-

Magnetic stands - these are used primarily to support accurate measuring equipment. Contrary to popular belief the small cheap ones are more accurate as instead of taking one reading they allow the user to workout the average of 6 different readings all taken from exactly the same setting and positioning.

Taps - Thread cutting devices designed to cut threads exactly 9* out of parallel, when buying taps it is advisable to buy matching dies from the same manufacturer as these will also cut 9* out to ensure a good fit.

Protective eyewear - Properly known as damage transfer devices. These allow people who would normally wear corrective spectacles to wear special non corrective lenses, this ensures that any damage that would have occurred to the eyes is transferred to either the workpiece or the hands through the inability to see what one is doing.

Metric micrometer - A simple threaded device that in skilled hands allows the operator to machine a part 0.5 mm too large or too small to within 0.01 mm accuracy.

Parting off tools - These are made by toolmaking companies to attempt to replace the humble hacksaw. They do indeed cut through metal but break far more often than hacksaw blades, cost more to replace, and require accurate setting up that takes precisely 3.7 times longer to cut through 10mm steel than it would with a hacksaw.

Micrometer blue - Sometimes referred to as 'Engineers blue' this is a vivid blue dye used to confirm your suspicions that the piece of metal you are scraping and filing away is the very piece that needs to remain in situ.

I lived my childhood in Middlesbrough and can vaguely remember we had those as late as the early 70's

I can't remember exactly but seem to think they were only in the kitchen and we used them on larger appliances like washing machines, fridges etc.

Hi,

I'm glad you asked this question as I'm planning to grind my own tools for the first time and will be interested to see the responses you get.

I came across these 2 videos yesterday that seemed helpful to people with smaller machines (ignore the first 30 secs where he talks about the weather !)

**LINK**

**LINK**

Peter

A very nice model, good to see something a little more unusual.

As for the curved handles my guess is they would be used as a way of lessening the stresses if it's intended the rotation will be in one direction only.

I'd assume the handle in the model is a 'clockwise' handle as you look at from the front.

Peter.

Hi Bill,

If it's any consolation I recently downloaded Fusion 360 and have similar problems sometimes.

I was getting a message saying something 'like update the graphics driver' I did go to the Intel updates page and downloaded a newer version ( I think ?) and it now seems a lot better but does still play up from time to time.

Peter.

Bought myself a small bench drill ( a Chester D13R) so been assembling that and having a few practice goes on off cuts.

So far so good, seems to run nicely with no noticeable play

Peter.

Yea, I quite agree it's therapeutic.

As someone who doesn't own a mill (yet) I do quite a lot of it and to be honest it's one of the tasks I enjoy most !

If the weather is decent I'll sit outside on my picnic chair with radio and cuppa and could happily file all day.

Peter.

Hi all,

Just thought I'd say I rung Chester this afternoon and Tony who I spoke to and bought the machine off at the Harrogate show saw this posting and has already kindly put a set of brushes in the post before I'd even called them.

Full marks to Chester for customer service, it's little things like that which mean I'd be more than happy to buy from them in the future.

Many thanks Chester.

Peter

It sure is a meaty looking engine, I love to be able to have a bash at something like that.

It's a pity you don't live closer I'd let you try my boiler to try your engine once I've made it. I can't imagine it would have enough power to but it would be fun to try it

Nice work Garry, it's coming along great

Just to satisfy my curiosity what size bore and stroke is it ?

Peter

Hi all,

John, the boiler will be a horizontal and I had intended to make a slight flat face along one side as a bottom in order that the area receiving the heat with be slightly thinner. Once I've got a pressure gauge and safety valve and had chance to look at them properly I thought I may also do the same to the top face also.

I'll see how long it takes to heat up etc then if necessary I can always turn down the whole diameter apart from the ends where the plates are bolted. In effect I'll have a tube with inbuilt flanged ends.

Julian who is LBSC ? do you have links please ?

Peter.

Thanks Jason, I did wonder about cutting the groove, the idea of cutting the end plate does seem to make a lot more sense.

One way or another I'm sure I can get a good seal and built something perfectly safe.

Peter.

Thanks Fizzy,

What you've done is pretty much what I'm planning to do albeit I'm intending a slightly larger diameter and more bolts.

The steel supplier has tubes in 3.5" and 4" OD both with 10mm thick walls as yet I haven't decided which to go for.

I take your point with walls that thick I'll probably have more trouble heating it than exploding it !

Cheers

Peter,

Edited By Peter Nichols on 01/08/2015 20:54:20

Hi Frank,

Thanks for that, I think before I do anything drastic I'll order a new set of brushes from the supplier and compare what they send with what I have now.

The springs in the first picture aren't from my machine.

Peter.

Hi,

Jason I did initially try removing the slotted covers but they were solid, once I took the end off I took the brushes out then the covers were ok, I reassembled it through the covers.

When I order new ones do they normally come as a complete set with the springs and contact wires ?

Peter.

Cheers John,

Even that is beyond my skills and tooling at the moment, I'd love to have a go at making something more sophisticated but at the moment it's just not possible.

I appreciate my idea won't be a super efficient steam generator but I'm convinced it will power small models like I'm currently building and will be perfectly safe.

Peter.