Member postings for Jesse Hancock 1

I have to admit that when I am doing a job I leave the tools I'm using right where they are needed. If I pack everything away I spend hours looking for it the next time I need it. If I don't use it for two days it's put away.

My ex used to be very house proud to the point of feeling scared to breath or move. This also led to me to be constantly asking where everything was including my wallet.

Those days are gone and I'm very content with the level of squalor into which I have descended.

Always let you conscience be your guide.

I take your point about standing and that has reminded me to get making those steel benches.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 23/02/2015 20:05:11

Try club level racing as there's a smidgen of the old camaraderie left at that level. Not like it was in the fifties and sixties though.

Thanks for the information Les.

The cast - in holes are 20mm 3/4" approximately. Your boring bar looks very sturdy.

I have reset the gib bar screws ( they hardly moved if at all) and I will clamp the table down somehow. Give it a twirl and see what happens. Suck it and see as my old man used to say.

Off to look at your link cheers Les.

Jesse

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 23/02/2015 13:38:55

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 23/02/2015 13:39:23

This is what I am using:- **LINK**

Link doesn't work but it was aimed at a No. two morse boring bar set.

Don't know how to down load photos either.

Jesse

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 20:20:16

Jason, yes it should read 120SFM but what I actually got I don't know since I had to guess using speed dial knob. My appologies.

The boring bars came with the head and fit into holes ready made. Bars are .233 inches 5.93mm (82mm Maximum length)

I was looking for rev counter today as it happens and that after reading the thread on cycle rev counter devices.

So much to do and so little time to do it.

Jesse

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 19:51:59

Les Right again, ally it is and see answer to Jason above. These boring bars are a shade under 6mm (5.94mm) (.234 inches).

Guys I will give you an update tomorrow. I want to try some or all of these ideas for now. I thank you all for your input.

Jesse.

Jason they are HSS with a concave shape and spur cutting edge. I'll try and down load a picture.

Hi Les, that's right more or less. I still have two untouched bores to do. It was after the second cylinder top half I noticed my error. Stare at the plans and see nothing it seems.

Stage two on half finished bore = the problem I'm having and yes it is a longer boring bar being used now.

Tried Jasons suggestion with no real improvement and that was with the shortest bar I can get away with.

As I have said I don't really fancy tightening the gib any more as I have had the head drop on more than one occasion already. It grabs now and then?!! Cheap mill.

I wish to resolve the problem before I venture on to the untouched bores if possible. In fact up until now I was having a whale of a time with it everything going great.

Les I think I will lock the table down some how, add weight to the column and tighten the gib as far as I dare.

Jesse

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 18:17:32

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 18:20:35

So was I Norman, near split my sides. It's the weigh I tell um.

Jesse.

Smallest boring bar I can use with counter weight makes very little difference.

I might try locking the table and tightening the gib down feed but I fear the head will stick and hold off as it's tight enough already. Norman no more sexual innuendo please.

PS: using column as drill handle isn't fine enough being one to one so to speak.

V8eng : I remember those problems, don't get them any more.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 17:20:19

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 17:45:36

KWIL:Boring bar 70mm long. Will try shorter if possible.

Jason:Not rubbing but will try counter weight thanks.

Norman: Is it valentines day again?

Jesse.

Gentlemen, I have stumbled into a problem while boring on my micro mill. It has to do with oscillation of the whole mill and appears to get worse the deeper I go.

Long story short : Dropped a clanger when boring the cylinders of the sealion block eg forgot the layer of aluminium below the head level which forms the water jacket. Turned a centre finder plug. After aligning the bore fixed a longer boring bar to the boring head.

Now as I bore down into the second layer an osculation sets in (nominal SFM 1200ish) and no amount of speed alteration will cure it.

I'm guessing it's a combination of boring bar flexing as it is too long and the off set of the boring tool throwing it out of balance too.

Any work arounds people?

Jesse

I remember having heard that chain was usually made in the back yards of individuals, lots of individuals in the Midlands. Today most people don't work at home as law, by-laws, insurance, health and safety, noise abatement and so on make it impossible. Indeed it's a wonder they allow us to engineer at home at all.

However if you move into an empty cattle shed somewhere and you manage to jump through all the hoops you might be able to earn a crust engineering wise. There again you'll perhaps find it cheaper and more profitable to subcontract the job to China.

I worked at a very small business back in the eighties (5 people) and we landed a contract with the M.O.D to make parts for guided missile launchers (Falklands war) and another for storage crates to hold spent uranium rods for the Nuclear industry!

If elf and safety get their way I think the next war will be fought with pillows by us Brits.

Jesse

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 22/02/2015 15:47:05

Russell.

Back in the sixties me and my mates used to go to the aptly named engine common in Yate to race Bangers and anything else we could lay our hands on.

We would all be locked up today for such behaviour. What no insurance, no helmets, bald tyres, no roll bars, yes crazy but just old cars and motor cycles.

Jesse

You have got me wondering now if I sell the car and give up eating I might be able to afford those. Mmmm decisions decisions?

Jesse

As a PS I have worked on this type boiler full size at a plant in Avonmouth some miles down the road from Bristol.

Great fun(not) crawling in through the man hole cover with a fire hose trying to wash out the scale therein.

Jesse.

Twin stoke holes (if that's what they are) is unusual on a model so it looks like they were trying to make it look realistic and yes it would be a scotch type in my book. I wouldn't be surprised if it had a super heater of some kind behind the smoke box door.

Jesse

There will be many people who may advise you as to which boiler to build but instead of that I would recommend you read MODEL BOILERS & BOILER MAKING by K.N. Harris. That way you can perhaps judge better for yourself what you can undertake.

Just for instance upright boilers are perhaps the least efficient of all boilers. I'm not saying it couldn't be induced to produce enough steam for your purposes but that it's inefficient boiler in design. I'm guessing that you may have in mind your 10V propelling a Victorian Launch or similar.

Perhaps you could hide a flash steam boiler in side your upright casing. All the necessary maths and layout are covered by Harris.

Good luck all the same with what ever you decide.

Jesse

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 19/02/2015 17:58:36

You might like to talk to boaty people on this one since this is always a problem on a wooden boat. Take a walk around any marina at any time of year and you will see they will have the front hatch open all be it just a bit and one open at the far end of the boat.

It is hoped that this will induce a stream of air through the boat sufficient to keep her reasonably dry and at an ambient temperature with the outside. Not forgetting that they have to have water in the bilge to keep the planks swelled and the boat water tight. IE no hope of drying out completely.

If you continually wet and dry wood it will rot very quickly. Note the boats on hard standing having water line planks renewed.

I think I would settle for an electric fan heater when feeling cold aimed at ones self and a store of WD to disperse the damp from machinery and spray at the end of play.

Leave a window or two open just a tad.... I'll bet you you're thinking what about the burglars!!! Truth is if they want to get in they will find away. I also think Harvey Kietle is wrong saying fit a burglar alarm since it takes the cops about two days to respond around here. This is just my opinion of course.

Jesse

What no clutch! They don't build em like that any more, thankfully.

Nice Holt on the trailer too perhaps not run due to track damaging the tarmacadam.

Great stuff.

Jesse