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Member postings for Izack Madd

Here is a list of all the postings Izack Madd has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Idiots guide to brass
25/05/2015 12:59:28
Posted by John Olsen on 25/05/2015 06:08:05:

The people that sell kitsets for wooden boats will also sell you little bags containing lots of little blocks, in different sizes too. They don't have actual sheaves in them but if this is a glass case model that should not matter.

John

These are just drilled blocks of wood so still suffer from being ugly as hell out of scale and tend to snag the lines just at the wrong time. Only to release them again when you think it's all done

25/05/2015 12:56:47
Posted by Vic on 25/05/2015 03:25:12:

I can't help but pop over to: http://modelshipworld.com and see how they do it over there. wink

While there look out for me and "Nannie" and her tail....😜👍

25/05/2015 12:54:53
Posted by norman valentine on 25/05/2015 00:02:29:

But surely on a model the blocks don't actually need to work? They just need to look right.

They don't have to work but from rigging a 1/350 scale Cutty Sark. I realise that they still do the same job and as such all have to be adjusted until everything's just right. While this is possible with plastic or solid wood blocks there is a tendency for the lines to snag on the uneven surface. So creating tight spots which suddenly slip meaning all the other lines are out of whack. And the plastic blocks tend to snap at the becket causing even more headaches. So apart from the greater authenticity, it's a big help rigging the standing lines.

24/05/2015 23:58:06

Posted by Izack Madd on 24/05/2015 23:55:52:

Posted by norman valentine on 24/05/2015 23:47:10:

If you are building a ship model why do you need to make brass washers? Wooden blocks work perfectly well.1375814085_1932_ft4006_cimg2927_.jpg

The only problem is inside the wooden blocks needs round wheels. And at this size wood just crumbles it's all about scale. While accuracy would be great I can't make wood molecules any smaller. So I've got to choose another product. Enter the next thing they used brass. And as its self lubricating if it's cheap enough because of the lead content which because of the structure of brass sits on the surface so giving it that smoot slimy feel. Wait that's an engineering fact. Oh my word your rubbing of on me quick pass me a lump of wood and perhaps it'll wear off...

Also last time I tried working with pignut vitea I spent more time sharpening the tools than working with them as its nearly like planning steel. And that's what was in the original blocks so no thanks.

24/05/2015 23:55:52
Posted by norman valentine on 24/05/2015 23:47:10:

If you are building a ship model why do you need to make brass washers? Wooden blocks work perfectly well.1375814085_1932_ft4006_cimg2927_.jpg

The only problem is inside the wooden blocks needs round wheels. And at this size wood just crumbles it's all about scale. While accuracy would be great I can't make wood molecules any smaller. So I've got to choose another product. Enter the next thing they used brass. And as its self lubricating if it's cheap enough because of the lead content which because of the structure of brass sits on the surface so giving it that smoot slimy feel. Wait that's an engineering fact. Oh my word your rubbing of on me quick pass me a lump of wood and perhaps it'll wear off...

24/05/2015 23:51:14
Posted by jason udall on 24/05/2015 23:31:48:
2mm od 0.3 mm wall.
...
I would try Stanley knife blade and "roll" the tube back and forth on block of wood with blade.

Now to do this 700 times.
Well how controlled as apposed to accurate do you want the "tube lets "?
If say a Stanley knife blade ( thickness) would suffice as length..stack two or more blades and using the blades to space the blades make block up..roll away and off you go..if two blades worth ( or other length) required then suitable packing will work...
I did this for 8 at a time 5 mm lengths in 1 mm od 0.3 mm id copper. .around 500 pieces...

Sounds worth a try thanks.

24/05/2015 23:50:16
Posted by pgk pgk on 24/05/2015 23:28:18:

First thought..I wonder if one could stiffen the inside with say an aluminium or plastic rod and then use a guillotine with a stop for the length. The guillotine would need a base board, metal strip edge and then a heavy blade (good kitchen knife or cleaver hinged at one end. If you can find one of those cleavers with a hole at the blade end for a hinging bolt... You then need two stops... one for length and one to stop the tube rolling away from the blade as you cut.

Second thought... If you're happy enough doing the cutting with a knife then make up a jig .. the rod resting between two closely spaced pairs of bearings.. it'll sit in the angle between a pair of bearings and be able to rotate.. and bridged across from the other pair gives you a gap to cut into. A raised block and stop at one end for the length and a guide for the knife. You should be able to build something robust enough out of timber for thin tube like this. Rolling the tube under the knife should give a clean straight cut??

Third thought.. hunt around for tiny brass spacers in that size and buy a bundle. It's the sort of thing that is used in small races to space the id of bearings so may be worth a google search.

Thanks for that. Not too sure about the first as it sounds way too safe . But the third is doable even if I used wooden dowel on marbles to create the bearings. And I'll definitely look into the third as its a route I haven't realised existed. That's why I'm here if in doubt ask the best. And I'm the biggest doubt...

24/05/2015 23:46:14
Posted by Johnboy25 on 24/05/2015 23:03:20:

Â

Hi... Can't you borrow a small clock or watch makers lathe? That's the only way I would consider making that many. Or.... What about finding someone with a Boxford TCL CNC joby... That would certainly do the trick without losing your sanity!

John

Too late on the sanity side I'm glad. But my engineering contacts stop at the number zero so looney tunes here I come sorry already am :-P

24/05/2015 22:42:04

Hi folks,

Not only is it that time again but it's double as its bank holiday. So for those who don't know me don't worry you'll soon recover. For those who do. When you've stopped groaning. IM BACK...

Right down to business. I've got some basic brass tube 2mm OD and 0.3mm wall thickness. Now please remember apart from a lot of sharp knives and a junior hacksaw. I'm a wood top so have less than nothing in the line of engineering skills.

What I need to do is repeatedly, about 700 times, cut slices of said tube 0.5-1mm long. Now I know I can cut said tube with a sharp knife. So it's not too hard it's the accuracy I'm struggling with and I'm sure there is a safer way than a big swing with a meat cleaver. especially when I'm holding the tube. I still want to be able to count to ten without rummaging around in the sawdust.

So how can I cut this tube please?

In case your wondering what I'm up to now. I've given up on the distilling. It was all just hot air. And I'm now all at sea. I'm trying to make some pulley blocks. Enough to to rig the HMS Victory and about 8 other ships including three Cutty Sarks. And as the Victory requires around 700. Never mind the rest. I'd like a nice simple way of making them. Emphasis on SIMPLE please.

Hope you are all well since my last visit no lost limbs or nervous breakdowns. That's my job, to give them and have them...

Thread: Sight glass or plastic?
13/02/2015 13:35:45

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/02/2015 13:26:01:

Most interesting ... if you get into the details you need a 'compounder's licence' if you are going to take your sloe gin round to a mate's house...

Neil

" But as soon as you add ice and lemon... BIG no no."

If you wish to make your self a methanol suicide cocktail be my guest. And as sloe gin is made by adding sloe berrys to ready made gin. Also even if a mate came around to mine for a drink, if that was what I was making, as soon as the ice hit the glass of ethanol its big fines and probably prison time without a distillers licence. And plant approval.

https://www.gov.uk/distillers-licence-plant-approval

13/02/2015 13:00:33
Posted by Lofty76 on 13/02/2015 12:56:33:

I think you have to modify your fuel system components quite extensively to be able to use ethanol based fuels.

Most modern engines since about 2008 ish have been built to run on either ethanol or petrol without the need for alterations it is also used in bio-diesel to boost the energy output.

13/02/2015 11:02:00

Sadly even at 40% ABV it's very illegal to so much as taste it. Even if it's for your own consumption. So long as it's for a provable use such as powering a vehicle 95%. But that has duty on it and has to be under 2500 litres per year. Or bio-ethanol 99%. For home heating still under 2500 litres per year. And no waste handling problems. It's leagal. But as soon as you add ice and lemon... BIG no no.

13/02/2015 10:30:01

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/02/2015 10:17:46:

Izack,

You do realise that you will have to apply for a rectifier's licence for this to be legal?

www.gov.uk/licence-to-rectify-or-compound-spirits

It's free to do this, but please explicitly confirm that you are going to comply with these requirements.

Neil

Hi,

I've no intention of breaking any laws. As I said I've checked out through HRMC and as far as I've been informed by the government I'm not actually creating anything alcoholic or changing anything. Just turning it from a saturated liquid. Into steam and back into an unsaturated liquid and back again. I'm not rectifying the ethanol just sepperating it from the dissoosolids which are what I'm after. But thanks for the link I'll check it out and act appropriately to stay within the law.

A very valid point which I endorce and take on board. While my approach to getting answers to my question were flippant all seriousness is undertaken.

Thanks Neil

13/02/2015 09:58:45

Posted by JasonB on 13/02/2015 07:45:24:

If you are using 15mm plumbing fittings which it sounds like you are then use a standard compression fitting and replace the olive with a suitable 1/16" nominal "O" ring. Probably have to take it down to 10mm or 12mm fittings to suit metric glass but the fittings are off the shelf.

That's one of the reasons I chose that size as all the sites mentioned normal fittings. Just not the o ring bit. Thanks as that makes lots of sense as there is no pressure other than the volume of water because the top of the pipe is vented. Also there's a place on eBay does any size glass for just under £5 including P&P and cutting off a 15mm OD x 300mm glass tube. So I should be ok, perhaps loosen the opening a little with a dremell type sander. If there the same size. As Im also thinking different materials different expansion rates. 

Thanks

Edited By Izack Madd on 13/02/2015 10:03:41

13/02/2015 09:56:20

Posted by V8Eng on 13/02/2015 09:09:27:

Hope I do not live anywhere near you, all that certainly sounds very dangerous!

Acrylic plus heat and a solvent! I would not be risking anything like that without a qualified chemist advising me.

What you are proposing sounds very hazardous in many respects, including using open flames with vaporising flammable solvents, etc, etc.

It sounds like you may be planning to operate a still, it may be necessary to have a licence for operating one of those, certainly used to be when I was indirectly involved with the chemical industries.

Sorry to be a wet blanket but you certainly need to investigate what you propose, in considerable depth, including its possible affect on insurance.

Edited By V8Eng on 13/02/2015 09:19:43

First of all I ac do have a chemist advising. Second acrylic should only be affected by acetone based solvent which wouldn't even need heating. Thirdly distilleries have been doing the very same thing for several hundred years. Fourthly so long as any production produces no was problems, is for specific use such as heating, and is under 2500 litre a year, and never leaves the premises, then it's fully leagal. According to HMRC. You don't even need a licence to distill vehicle grade fule. But I'm actually recapturing used ethanol that has a dissolved solid in it then I can reuse the same solvent again and again..

But thanks for the concern.

13/02/2015 09:48:24
Posted by mick H on 13/02/2015 06:43:52:

Attach the glass tube in exactly the same way as sight glasses are attached in locomotive water gauges. Loads of designs/plans available.

Mick

I've been looking all over but I'm struggling to find actual plans just people on forums talking about it. I'm probably not using the right search criteria. Could you suggest a particular link please

13/02/2015 02:29:26

Thanks Chris

I had similar concerns over the melting, but keep reading on different websites how people have used acrylic in models.

My only issue now is how do I attach it?

Any polite suggestions gratefully received.

13/02/2015 00:29:44

Hi,

Another weekend, another daft question.

I'm wanting to put a sight glass on a small open flame heated. Small spirit lamp. The bottom of the "boiler" is flat and about 300mm diameter. The glass would probably be another 50mm further out from the side. The internal temp shouldn't get higher than 100c, probably not that. As there will be volatile fluids in there. Ethanol to be precise. Which boils at 70c ish, also it a low to no pressure system. Just trying to boil of the unwanted fluids from the wanted, and be able to collect the condensed evaporated liquids. If you know what I mean. Purely for the purpose of refining certain liquids. That would never come in contact with a glass of tonic water and some ice.

So here goes. And please be aware I'm just a thick wooden top. So simple is best.

Glass is nice doesn't stain and can cope with none direct heat. But Perspex is cheaper.

Can I get away with 15mm OD Perspex pipe?

How do I stop it deforming?

If so how? And how do I attach plastic pipe to copper/brass fittings?

And finally. If I've got to go with glass. Same question. How on earth do you get a water tight seal with glass on brass/copper?

So picture are very helpful as are names of parts and possible suppliers

Thread: Mirror, Mirror on the box
30/01/2015 23:16:33
Posted by clivel on 30/01/2015 23:10:55:

The diagonal mirror was orignially a feature of Gerstner wooden toolboxes. The reason for the mirror given by the Gerstner Company here is:

The mirror was first installed in the early 1900’s on some of the very earliest Gerstner chest designs. In those days, very few manufacturing and/or tool & die companies had indoor plumbing. In other words, there were few companies with lavatories (with wash basins and mirrors) for toolmakers and other factory workers to use to clean up at the end of the day.
The “mirror” mounted inside a Gerstner tool chest provided the wherewithal for the chest owner to check his appearance and comb his hair before heading home (or, perhaps, going in to ask the boss for a raise). At various times over the years, we have introduced a few tool chests without including a mirror. Interestingly enough, the feedback from customers has been, “Without a mirror, the chest doesn’t look like a Gerstner.” So . . .you may notice that virtually all new model Gerstners feature a“mirror” inside the tip lid.

They don't mention why the mirror was placed diagonally, but I recall reading somewhere that it was more as a trademark feature of the Gerstner brand rather than for any practical purposes, a feature now copied by other manufactures, particularly those in the Far East.

Thanks very much, as it happens it's a Gerstner chest I've just bought. Second hand. But it nice at last to know the real reasons. As I've often wondered. It just leaves two questions. Why do engineers miss the mirror? If you don't mind me asking how on earth you knew it. As I've looked all over with barely a mention?

30/01/2015 22:24:04
Posted by Bazyle on 30/01/2015 21:45:28:

Google images took a while to find one with a mirror, not least because most do not have a top opening lid. But one found did have it diagonally.
I suggest it is just an attempt to get a larger dimension horizontally. As with widecreen TVs the human eye/brain prefers to see a wide horizon so is fooled into thinking the wider diagonal dimension in the horizontal makes it a bigger mirror than it is.

New 'toolboxes' have mirrors for an entirely different reason.

So why do new toolboxes have mirrors then. And are you just saying in a round about way people with diagonally placed mirrors in their toolbox are big heads...face 16

Any try typing wooden toolbox with drawers then you'll see more

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