Member postings for Izack Madd

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/06/2015 22:10:47:

Posted by Izack Madd on 18/06/2015 21:19:34:

I'm really hopeful there is an simpler way as it's sort of the thing I can image engineers might do such as cotter pins. But then again it's also the sort of thing that engineers would make themselves

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A miniature version of a chain link extractor is probably what you need.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 18/06/2015 22:13:38

This was sort of thinking i was hopeful of. BUT... Do they make one that small?

Thanks for all the great responses. And any more that come through. It was just a thought as ther are also rats of weird and wonderful tools designed for such as the car industry that work great for woodwork but don't get noticed as most wooden tops wouldn't even look amongst "those" sort of tools in case they get oily just by looking at them

I've got a block of oak and used the end grain as the pins are small enough to dig into whilst the oak is strong enough to take the blows. And I've got a thin bladed blunt knife which I can slide under as its got no bevel. The only problem then is holding the pin, holding the blade and holding the knife. And no matter which way I count them I've only got two hands. I tried using my feet but I'm to old now a days for daft tricks like that.

I think the burr is what's sticking but being wood blades they are not too hard just fiddly. As they are only 2.5mm x 0.75mm. I'm able to pull them out but it really needs there hands...

Because I've got a jewellers saw which the blades have no pins. In case the blade jams then it pulls out of the saw not bending Mrs blogs new ring. And I've also got about 60 copeing saw blades but these have pins. Basically I'm tight and don't like waste.

That's right I've done it I'm really hopeful there is an simpler way as it's sort of the thing I can image engineers might do such as cotter pins. But then again it's also the sort of thing that engineers would make themselves

hi,

Mid week mental work out time I'm afraid.

I'm looking for a way to remove the tiny pins you get at the end of copeing saws. I can bash them as far as being flush on one side but I'm struggling to get them the last through..

Any suggestions I did think perhaps a small pin punch, 1mm or less. But the size makes it difficult to line things up. I wondered was there a special tool a bit plié pliers or something?

Thanks for the great ideas on cutting tube I've got my self a jewellers tube/rod holder designed for the job works a treat. As was suggested by one of you super heroes.

With a bit of luck i may have solved the issue another way as ive ordered some jewelry spacer beads 1.5mm x 1.5mm. Unfortuntly they are from china. So not only do i have to wait while they crawl here. Ive no idea of quality. Or even whe=at they are made of. I had one set of brass seed beads come that i was wanting to flaten for another project only to find out they were made of glass. Not easy keeping the dust from disapearing every time you hit them with a hammer 😉

Hi your right about the surface and i had the ube and had no rod. Its the method i was hopeful of improving but effort and safety.

Hi.

The choice of tube was pure mathematics. I had some tube i didnt have anything else ☺

None of the dimentions are crutial. What im after is a simple way of repeatedly and easy method of cutting a load of rings. Ideally something i can pick up do a dozen or so then do something else. Its just the repation and force required thats the big issue. The repatition i cant avoid but i was hopeful there was a simple force free or less than i was using. The other benefit of using tube is the fact that the surface is smooth. Then even if the wheel fails to turn the slick surface allows for a smooth slide. And if i needed i can evev add a curve to the outer surface by putting the rings between two centre punches. AKA as masonry nails ground to a flat point. This would only be where the wheel is truley visable.

One other option i do have is copper capillary tube 2mm OD x 1mm ID would this be eaisier to cut?

I'm sure you've got me wired for sound or video as well as you keep saying what I'm thinking. 😜. You're right I've not got a lathe but I do have a drill and may be able to adapt that idea but a lot slower. But thanks for the comments as I'm never to sure if people are serious or joking when they offer this sort of techno strong advice.👍

Thanks for all the brilliant ideas which I'm certainly going to be trying in one combination or other.

I really do appriciate all the suggestion but there are too many to name but I would like to thank JasonB and Jason Udall for showing such teamwork. One comes up with the ides and the other draws it out.

Thanks for that as its something that I can recreate shall we say without any special equipment and even out of timber. Defiantly something I'll be trying as its so simple yet potententialy very useful not just tubes. And no chance of loosing fingers

Hi,

Thanks for the comments. I think we've reached the main sticking point between wooden tops and tin tacks. That of exact terms and accuracy. 😜 if we can ignore are own specialities for a moment and use the vernacular, what I need is a means of cutting lengths of tube repeatedly, simply, easily, and with enough accuracy so as to make the sizes "look" the same. I'm not like split cane rod makers, working to a precise 1/75". So as I can create the wooden parts the same and know that they should hold the pulley wheel without binding. So if some are mildly smaller that's fine. It's a maximum that is the main critical point.

Hope this makes sense.

I don't envy you with the De-piping 👎

Not everyone uses the ready made versions. As there is a chap, Dafi, over on MSW. making his own block right now.

The brass tube is for the pulley wheel inside the block. Which the rope will slide over. It should be grooved around the edge. But the metal is slick enough without that much detail.

Hi,

I fully understand what your saying and mainly agree. But it's the same as "why make the model" in the first place. Because... And as I'm unable to work it gives me something to aim for. You could say the same of people who make steam engines with hundreds of scale rivets. Plus the one I've made which is always the slowest. Only took five mins. And looks ten times better than any I've seen. I may not do it but I had the tube. And decided to try. Especial as mine look better than some hand made ones on the MSW. Forum which are just cubes of wood with holes in.

But as I put into action all the great ideas and see if it's at all practical then let thing develop from there. Thanks Norman and all the rest of you.

Izack

Hi,

Your right they do have all I need but at $23 for fifty it's more than I want to spend really

Lots of great ideas for me to try which is what.

Thanks a million well 700 plus...

This is basically what I've done for the test model it's the repeatability that I'm concerned about.