Member postings for Mike guitar

Thanks Rik on info I'm only applying cutting oil with brush and that leaves quite a residue so understand where your coming from, it does take quite an effort to clean the machine down. I also wear vinyl or even latex gloves to keep the stuff off my skin, unfortunately my garage/workshop isn't as good as yours or George's insulation wise I've given quite a lot of thought towards improving it maybe if I could give the machines a rest I might get round to it!!!!

Hi Rik congratulations on fixing the oil leak, I'm interested on why your switching to soluable oil? I went the other way I changed from soluable oil to neatcut the main reason being I never seemed to be able to remove all traces of the oil from the ways, evrytime I moved the carriage traces of oil would follow. I don't bother now I'm using neatcut I'm just hoping it adds to rust protection of the lathe. I'm using one of the "Safer !!!!!!" Oils so no residual smell

Hope you don't mind all the questions, bet your going to make me worry about the use of neatcut!!!!!! I

Thanks George I can always rely on you for informative answers, actually the supplied drill chuck and the er25 chuck fit the supplied draw bar threads I've had both mounted on the drawbar so all is fine, Warco also supplied the imperial drawbar which may come in handy sometime regarding the drilling press I never tapped the drill chuck firmly home on the arbour or even stuck the assembly in the fridge etc so providing I had a light touch on the handles no problem anyway thanks again all points noted

Hi. George and anyone else interested in the rear tool post for the 250-vf lathe, well I've got the pics but a slight Ipad software problem which I'm working on!!!!! The Ipad crashes when I try to load to my album anyway I'll fix it!!!!!

Actually I'm puzzling on using the drill chuck which came with the WM16 mill or using an er25collet chuck and a correct size collet. The reason being on my drilling machine which has a drill chuck mounted on an arbour on an R2 spindle any jam say on break through of the drill results in the drill chuck slipping on the arbour and as there's plastic gears involved I thought good safety device.

I was therefore thinking the same principle may apply to the WM 16, is it better to use the drill chuck and hope it slips on the arbour if a jam occurs, I'm always over cautious when drilling anyway, just wondered on your thoughts

I

Heck the IPad spelling not too good today And Echo George's best wishes for the new year

Edited By Mike Harris 3 on 05/01/2015 16:54:46

Ok George maybe I was tad over exaggerating the heavy bit! But it is quite substantial lump, when I get the WM16 cabinet fixed to the floor and the mill mounted I'll post some pics of the rear tool post.I also bought the parting off blade/holder which works well albeit with a little shimming to set the tool height. I had a damaged swarf tray with the mill but Lindsey at Warco arranged a rapid swap out I've been very impressed with all I've been in touch with at Warco.

Thanks Les, Trev and George, nice pic George, very useful advice from all, Ill be lifting mine after Christmas, Ive got the anchor bolts for the concrete floor so nearly there, I was originally just a little concerned about the weight of the mill hanging on the head suppose it's my age.

Actually I'm about to make another posting regarding the new rear tool post and mounting plate I recently bought from Warco, it's a heavy piece of engineering and works well, suppose now I've got the mill I could make one!!!! but for the price what more can I say!!!!!

Hi, not posted for a while I've been playing with my 250v-f lathe and all going well. Finally got round to buying a WM 16 Mill after lots of searching larger or different mills, anyway unboxed it today and Warco exchanging the stand and machine tray for me as they were a tad damaged. I've checked the grizzly download PDF manual as per the link from George and noticed that they recommend using lifting straps round the head of the mill. I have an engine crane so no problem there, I'm a little concerned about the suggested strap location, was thinking more around the base etc etc,wondered if anyone had lifted their mill on the cabinet with straps shown in the grizzly position?

Hi Derry I'm not sure if the brook Compton motor has a start capacitor or more like I can't remember!!!! You could start by checking if you have, actually it may be a run capacitor again I'm not sure but anyway worth a check. Please ignore my comments if I'm talking out the back of my AC theory

Hi and thanks oompa, I will also make a cabinet for Mill bought cabinet for the lathe but will def build for the Mill, my sons live a few hundred miles from here but suspect their respective wives wouldn't let them help anyway........sign of the times maybe......I've got an engine crane to help me lift it on to it's stand, thanks for your comments

Hi, I'm getting round to buying a milling machine after wasting years of my life thinking about it. I've read all the web relative advice and taking my age (approaching the big 70) and My wife's increasing frustration into consideration and the fact that machine tools requiring a crane to get them in situ leave me fazed. Hence I'm looking at either the WarcoWM18 or the ChesterCentury I've studies both specs but just know I'm going to get sensible advice on this forum. thanks in anticipation

Chris and Rik, I have the 250 with the ac delta drive induction motor and up to now I've not had any motor slowing or stalling under heavy load, the only noise is of course from an electronics bay cooling fan which

runs all the time from power up but of course this is not objectionable, also I'm from an electronics background so Interested in electronics side of control etc,I've heard several of the dc motor lathes and they all had the hum. I think the ac motor version uses mosfets in the delta control mode, nice quiet operation....so far....

Yes Jason I noticed the two washers were a different thickness and to be honest a bit misshapen I used different size d washers from those supplied, interestingly I have a friend who runs his lathe with the banjo always out of mesh, mind he does have several other lathes and doesn't use his warco for threading, I did consider only connecting my gears when threading but then remembered I've got power cross feed!!!!!!!

Edited By JasonB on 19/08/2014 15:33:22

Thanks Howard, after a few more hours fiddling I arrived at the correct setting, I tried different thickness of paper to get final position, I found the final setting of the banjo to be the most critical.

Edited By JasonB on 19/08/2014 15:36:20

Hi I promise not to blag on about the Warco I just thought you may be interested in my progress. Im still considering the saddle stop mods but shelved for the time being and continued messing with the lathe. I decided to give the matter of thread cutting some attention, the Lathe had arrived with the change gears set for a very fine imperial thread so I decided it would be INTERESTING to have a go at moving gears around to give me say 8, 16 and 32 TPI, this didn't give me too many problems once I sorted out the best method of removing/fitting the key sleeves, slotted washers and shafts, I noted that unless the gear train is set up with the correct amount of clearance then the noise transmitted through the headstock is considerable, anyway ive got it sussed now and quite pleased with the result, incidentally the power cross feed works nicelyI

sorry for the long script hope you done mind too much

Edited By JasonB on 19/08/2014 15:36:47

Thanks George, nice to find and chat to other peeps with the same lathe always useful, I did try and tighten my lock with no success, I'm also not to keen on removing the saddle just yet, for one thing my wife refuses to support the saddle whilst I'm loosening the leadscrew!!!! I'm investigating will post developments

Thanks Vic, sorry for the delay getting back, I've been busy checking the saddle!!!!!ive had a link sent to me from another member I,m checking the grizzly site and as so many before have stated the manuals are far more detailed in every respect, I'm also happy with the lathe still fiddling with change gears etc but having taken a few weeks to engine crane it onto its stand and then construct some levelling plates I'm kinda running behind schedule thanks again Vic

Hi, I've recently bought a Warco 250v-f lathe it's the. New model with a delta controlled ac induction motor, I'm reasonably pleased with the machine, unfortunately the carriage lock doesn't work and the manual doesn't show the engineering details, I've emailed warco and they are getting back to me, I've been informed there's a cam beneath the bed which is tightened down by an Allen screw from the top slide, I suspect I'm going to have to remove the whole assembly to fix the problem just wondered if anyone experienced this problem with the previous dc motor version of the lathe?