Member postings for Roger Hulett

Because I was learning how to do this,I did a dummy run and found several points that needed attention. The two that you mentioned were covered,together with basics like checking the tightness of holding down clamps after each cut. Making sure there was enough clearance between the cutter and the chuck jaws when the cutter was returned for a fresh cut. I thought I had done enough to ensure near perfection,but I was wrong,I obviously missed something.

Well,I have cut my first gear. Thanks to all who contributed,but, and there is always a but. The circumference is identical to the pattern.The thickness is identical to the pattern. The No of teeth cut is correct,the depth of each cut is identical,but.....some (3) of the teeth are thicker than the others and 2 are thinner. 11 are perfect. What could I have done to cause this ?

That has gone in my Favourites........Very useful. thanks very much

Yes, it was the sector arms that I was adjusting incorrectly. Thanks very much for the advice.

Any tips on cutting the gear ? Speed ? Lubrication?

Roger

I think Luigi has hit the nail on the head. After marking out the blank,I disengaged the chuck and moved the pin back to it's original position.Then re-engaged the chuck,moved the pin 5 turns + 10/16.I didn't realise that one moved the sector arms each time. First thing in the morning,I will retry. Thanks everyone and especially Luigi.

I am trying to cut a 16 tooth gear. The Warco chart for 16teeth on a 90:1 ratio shows 5turns and 10/16 extras. I set it up as instructed with 11 spaces between the sector arms. With the gear cutter in position and starting from the first hole adjacent to the left hand sector arm then I rotated the chuck 5 turns + the 10 remaining holes between the sector arms until the pin reached the right hand sector arm. I then marked the gear blank at the point where it would be cut by the gear cutter.I proceeded to do this until I reached the starting point. I then counted the pencil marks and found I had 18. I have tried this several times and each time the result was 18.

What am I doing wrong?

I have a very nice small horizontal mill. It is excellent for working on small parts. There are however occasions when i need a longer length to the table. No one sells these apart from one I saw which was aluminium and was for a woodworking router. Has anyone any thoughts on how to extend the table ?

Thankyou.

When cutting a spur gear using a horizontal mill,proprietary gear cutter and rotary table indexer,is the correct technique to cut each tooth individualy or to keep going round,increasing the depth of cut on each round ?

The metal itself is tapered,if it were scrap from stampings,what product would use tapered metal ? The metal at the "tub" end is thicker than the "Christmas tree fairy support" end. Could they be some sort of wedge ?

Not very good,but we got there in the end !!!

I have tried to upload photographs but to no avail.I am afraid the technology is beyond me.

I have two tools that I cannot identify. Each tool has the same appearance but different dimensions.;

The shape is like a Xmas tree in a tub, (one is 60mm high the other 80mm.)

The tub on the second one is 30mm x 10mm. There is a 3mm hole in the centre. The base of the triangle of the "tree" is 40mm. The top of the triangle of the tree(60mm) terminates in an upright section of 2mm x 10mm.

The metal appears to be stainless steel and its thickness tapers from the "tub" end to the top (2.8mm to 1.2mm)

Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou

I have recently acquired (legally) a quantity of 1/4 x 1/4 and 10mm x 10mm HSS tool bits.

I have a SouthBend that takes 12mm tool bits.

Is there an adaptor that would enable me to use these small tools in my SB or are there any other suggestions. Thanks Roger

I will probably use the galvanised. It is to be used to edge the running boards of a vintage motor cycle, so after forming,cutting and shaping to fit it will be painted and hopefully indistinguishable from the original. It would appear that in 1920 the size was a stock size. I was just curious why there is a demand for those dimensions in other materials but not in mild steel,which is a cheaper alternative. Protection for edges etc.

How does galvanised start out ?

I need some small dimensioned (17mmx 17mm) thin (1mm - 2mm) angle iron. I can get Stainless,Galvanised ,Wood and Plastic. Why can't I get mild steel ???

The very old push button remote on/off switch on my little old horizontal mill has finally given up. On fleabay is a chinese drum switch 311429429528 it says forward & reverse. Would this be suitable as a replacement.

My mill currently runs in an anti clockwise direction,so the reverse facility would stop the LH thread nut on the arbour,spinning off.

There is a very good "You Tube" video entitled "cutting a single cam by Chuck Fellows"

I would like to know where I can obtain the math (US) or calculation to produce a cam.. Any advice will be very much appreciated.Thankyou.

Taking this discussion (although somewhat dated) a stage further.I have bought a set of 5 Utility Indexable toolholders. STNCR & STACR STDCR & STECN and STCCR

The "S" and the "T" are self explanatory,however for example two of the toolholders have only one difference in the number.....stAcr (0degrees) and stNcr. (3degrees) The difference being the side cutting angle.

My question is whenand why would you use "A".....0degrees or "N"....3degrees

Thankyou.

Thankyou very much for such a prompt reply. Will take your advice.