Member postings for Nick_G

Reminds me of 'the good ole days' (30 years ago) when it was considered acceptable to discipline apprentices for doing something wrong. (something serious like forgetting to put sugar in the tea)

We would get a capacitor from an old flou fitting and clip out the bleed resistor. Then charge the cap with a 1000 volt Megger (insulation tester)

The next step I am sure you can guess.? But it resulted in squeaking and an improved ethos to get it right next time.

Can you imagine the kufuffle if that sort of thing was done today.? lol Back then it was considered 'normal'. But today I would imagine considered similar to walking into a bank brandishing a machine gun.!

Nick

Disconnect the motor. Wire the motor to a length of flex with a plug on. Switch on.!

If the motor runs it eliminates a fault on the motor and points to the control side. - If it does not, then look for a problem at the motor side.

Try spinning the motor by hand with power on. (watch fingers.! - Probably best to take the belt off the pulley) 'If' it then runs this can sometimes tell you that the staring capacitor has gone south.

Nick

Glen,

Where in the the country are you.?

Nick

Connect the incoming supply of live and neutral to 1 & 2 - e.g. live to 1 & neutral to 2 (or vise versa)

The rotation is then determined by which colours are bonded together on terminal 5

Don't forget the earth to the frame. They often omit earth connections on diagrams for clarity and presume you will automatically connect it.

Get it running in one direction or the other first to check you have not 'butchered' the motor (unlikely but possible) by previous wrong connection.

Once you have done this let us know and we can then sort out the reversing issue by use of a multi pole rotary switch by altering the connection permitations that configure 5 & A

Have you got a multi meter or a continuity tester.???? - You will probably need one to 'bell out' the open and closed sides of the switch.

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 04/05/2014 05:48:25

Yes I agree.

Both my 22/250 and the 25-06 are so. But they are heavier barreled versions. A 'standard' weight barrel at 5/8" may leave not a lot of shoulder for the face of the moderator to mount to.

Nick

.

I can tell you that the small sound moderators are all UNF 1/2 x 20, be it manufactured by Parker hale, Sako etc, etc. - It's kind of an unofficial industry standard.

Nick

**Nick_G drools.

Finest engineering porn if ever I saw it.!

Jason. This is decadent deviancy.

Nick

You said you were a qualified toolmaker and CNC machinist.!

You should then know that a lathe would be best for that.

Nick

I don't for a second profess to know a great deal about milling machines. But I am also in the market for one myself so I am watching this thread with interest.

You mention perhaps a CNC conversion at a later date. I notice that on youtube this one has been a popular candidate for such by lots of people. Perhaps others could tell me why.?

**LINK**

You also mention a possibility of buying one with a DRO ready fitted. Make sure it has outputs that are compatible for CNC use otherwise the extra money for them 'may' have been wasted.

Regards, Nick

I have tried searching the web for information upon the correct headstock oil for my Boxford STS 10-20 lathe. ............ Very confusing and contradictory.

It seems lots of people have many different ideas and reasons from a fairly light weight oil (e.g. auto transmission oil) to a much heavier grade.

They seem to differ as much as recipes for making curry.! With with everyone convinced their choice is the best.

This has left me 'confuddlized' What do you recommend.?

Regards, Nick

You got that wrong.!

Don't worry I corrected it for you.

Nick

Cheers for the replies guy's.!

Yes, I am familiar with Allan's thread. - Very good in both description and the end product. The Victoria (due to Allan's thread) is also a contender.

Along with this. :- **LINK** Yes I know it's considerably bigger. But does 'look' reasonably straightforward. Just bigger. Like a Stuart 10H on steroids. 

A builders notes here. **LINK**

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 28/04/2014 19:17:24

.

Thinking of purchasing the Stuart beam engine kit for a 1st project.

They do 2, one large and a smaller one. It's the smaller of the 2 (the one with the 7 inch flywheel)

This one (someone has documented their construction.) **LINK**

Opinions please.

Nick

It 'could' also mean that it is a dual voltage 3 phase one. Are there any capacitors strapped to it. (tubes)

Any chance of a photo of the connection terminals.?

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 27/04/2014 00:38:33

I am watching this thread with interest as a recent purchaser of a lathe.

Mine will take up to 16mm tools, but as my interest will be model making there are many times I can envisage where 16/12mm tools will be to large to get into the area of the job required.

I am 'thinking' that a selection of 8mm tools may also be required.

Regards, Nick

It's on the shore of the Sea of tranquility.

Nick

I think it would be wise and informative for me to attend.!

With me being a newbie I will probably learn loads from just watching, looking and listening.

You will easily spot me as I will be the guy looking like a confused and startled rabbit in headlights.

Nick

Chuck Jaw donation.

Now there must be a matching set in this lot.?

They are in the dishwasher as I type then I will be able to see what I have got.

Would it help others to advise if you took video with your phone. (does not have to be a good one) and posted it to Youtube.?

Nick

Just been to a friend of mine to use his bench grinder. (one was on my shopping list)

Anyway. He had a nice spare 6" one and has kindly donated it to 'the cause'.!

What are the type of stones I need for sharpening lathe tools, and are they different types for HSS and tungsten.?

Cheers, Nick