Member postings for Martin King 2

Hi All,

Clive, the 2000 is belt length (by 75mm)

here is today’s bit, starting on the indexing of the table support bars that take the 6mm and 8mm spring ball plungers.

I spent a lot of time resetting the vice to be dead square and level for this operation as it is crucial to the table geometry.

Used a 6mm solid carbide ball nose cutter and played around with speeds and feeds, I get the impression that one must work the cutter hard in stainless (304)?

cheers, Martin

Hi All,

This project is still ticking along slowly. Finally got a new motor but have had to go with a 24mm shaft instead of 19mm so the hub will need altering, also the large drive pulley will need taking out a bit to allow room for the key way.

I am not able to machine this because of size so it will cost a bit to have done. Also I do not think that my S7, (and my skill!) are up to the accuracy need to avoid run out on such a large diameter pulley.

All now away being done for me.

I have however made progress on the outboard end parts; machined the parts to take the main 30mm stainless rod that will carry the table:

This holds the two 12mm spring plungers that will engage in the 30mm table rod to enable indexing at vertical and horizontal table positions.

Next job it to mill the two circular grooves to take these plungers.

Hope that folks find this of interest, if not let me know and I will stop!

Cheers, Martin

Here are 2 pics of the pedal and commutator:

Hi All,

I will post a couple of pics tomorrow but a better description may be of help here!

The motor comes with a foot pedal and what looks like very old wiring and connectors.

When I got it and plugged it in there was a very low almost subliminal hum from the foot pedal and motor did not run.

On removing the bottom cover of the pedal, there is a micro switch; a potentiometer driven by a spring loaded bit of string connected to the pedal, a small circuit board and this capacitor thingy!

There is 240V across one side of the micro switch and earth; 240V across other side of switch when pedal depressed;

Nothing across the terminals of the capacitor.

The motor itself has carbon brushes and a commutator in poor shape. I assume it is supposed to be variable speed else why the pedal and potentiometer?

Photos will certainly be of more help to explain tomorrow.

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

I have a watchmakers lathe with a dicky motor which I think needs a new part as shown here.

I think that this is a capacitor but need to know what part number to search for and where are the best place to look online. Some letters missing I think?

Regards, Martin

I have used the Autotek grey etching primer for a long while now and find it to be excellent, mainly on alloy and steel but also some small brass items.

cheers, Martin

Hi Tom, Certainly looks similar!

Martin

Hi All,

Just bought a fiar bit of stuff from a defunct watchmakers shop and found this little tool.

The table slides up and down and the lever moves back and forward to the fence.

Lovely little thing but what does it do please?

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

just recently spent a terrific couple of days at the Historic Dockyard as a 70th Birthday present from a neighbour.

Did the Mary Rose first which was the first time I had seen it since I dived on it as a volunteer way back in the dawn of time! My best memory of it was getting in the tin bath on the Sleipner barge deck which was full of warm rusty water from the generators!

Spent a lot of time on Victory and if one looks carefully time is certainly taking its toll on the old girl.

She is slowly sagging under her own weight despite the superbly engineered prop system that has been installed to approximate the support given by floating in water. Lots of what looked like laser sensors all over the place to measure movement I guess.

Lots of guns have been removed and replaced with replicas.

When you walk underneath the hull the damage caused by Teredo worm is massive, rudder area is really bad.

She has no masts at the moment, but I believe that modern lighter replacements are on the way.

Close inspection almost anywhere reveals much evidence of rot and softness, Death Watch beetle still present I was told.

All that aside, the fantastic staff bring the whole thing to life and it is truly humbling to see and imagine what it must have been like to be a sailor on her in battle.

I heartily commend a visit to anyone, really great day out.

Cheers, Martin

Hi Jon,

We are in Broadmayne, 3 miles from Dorchester, 15 mins from Weymouth.

We always have the kettle on if you are passing by!

cheers, Martin

Size is 1.8m tall by 1.25m width

Martin

Hi All,

I have been asked by a neighbour and friend to make a wind break for their garden.

The main frame will be welded 25mm steel box section with fixing tabs to take the main panel as shown.

The pal's wife would like it to be "copper" but I am guessing that any copper sheet of suitable thickness would be way too expensive.

I would welcome any suggestions as to a suitable alternative that would be weather proof and not too heavy.

Powder coated something? PVC sheet?

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

Finished the two platen pullies with pressed in bearings, fairly easy this one!

I am very pleased with the ALDI one, just take your time with the cut and keep the blade slack between use.

Eats through 25mm 304 stainless easily. just let the weight of the saw do the work.

Martin

HiAll,

Been busy away from this project for a while but have just done these pieces:

Made the axles from 25mm 304 stainless which was hard work, finally got the speed and feed about right (600rpm) to get a good finish. Got to "nearly there" then finished off with emery cloth for a nice fit on the bearings.

The M16 threads were hard work and had to use a diameter of 15.5mm in order to get the die to cut OK in low speed and back gear. Constant fwd & rev a bit at a time.

The stainless seems to work harden if you are not pretty aggressive with the cuts.

The threads are no oil painting for sure but they will be OK!

Slots in the brackets were a breeze in aluminium after the SS! Will round off the corners later on. It would be nice to have a linisher to do it on!

Next job is the pullies.

Cheers, Martin

Hi,

I have been VERY happy with the water jet cut stuff I have had done both large and small parts, all to good tolerances, particularly the holes from 3/16W to M16

I use OCTAGON Precision, easy to find on the net if local to you. Small parts he just posts to me and I have my gauge plate material delivered direct to him.

Cheers, Martin

Hi All, Thanks for the helpful input, it does seem to be a general purpose precision surveying instrument,

Found this one from the USA

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

My wife came across this nice instrument at a local car boot, the chap said that he had it with him in the Falklands but I did not get to talk to him to quiz him further

Not much comes up under OZALID but I have certainly heard the name before.but cannot remember the context.

Nice that it is in a custom case with a lovely little magnifier and dividers by W HARLNG, a local firm from Weymouth.

My only thoughts are that it might be for gun laying using a plane table or some such? You can locate the circle centre very precisely with the glass to align the crosshairs. Presumably you can then get a precise fix from the bearings of known objects on the map?

Any thoughts most welcome

Cheers, Martin

Michael.

+1 for Manfrotto, rings a definite bell with me!

Martin

Hi All,

Stanley were notorious for having all sorts of odd thread sizes on their tools and accessories!

Most of the small plough planes use 3/16BSW for the thumbscrews but you will often find 5/32 and 7/32 as well, sometimes even 9/32 here and there.

I have just had batches of plough plane clamps made for which I am using 3/16W for the new thumbscrews. It really does not matter except to the ultra purist collectors

i am about to order the LH taps and dies for the adjustable spokeshaves and plane adjuster threads, Tracy Tools being the go to guys!

cheers, Martin