Member postings for Brian Abbott

Thanks Jason,

Never gave them a thought!

Need a steering chain for the Minnie I am building.

Is there a supplier who I can buy something suitable?

Thanks all.

Perfect, cheers Alan

Thanks Rod, that’s the one.

Knew i could rely on you lot 😄

Hello Alan, thanks for taking the time.

Im convinced there was a later copy but doesn’t matter, i will make this one.

Thanks again

Hello all

Some time ago in the model engineer magazine there was an article on how to make a small rivet squeezer.

I wrote the article details down but i am damned if i can find them.

On searching, i found one write up in volume 158 but i am sure there was a later version.

Anyone know?

Thanks

Hello all.

So, i have given this about 6 coats of oil,

and is looking so much better but would like to give it a coat of wax to give it a little more sheen.

Any reason why i shouldn’t?

thanks all

Hello Pete, i used Gorilla Glue, just the normal white wood glue.

bit unsure but it has worked really well.

now had 2 coats of the danish oil and is starting to look really good,

would like a bit more of a shine but maybe this will come with a few more coats.

Thanks all.

Edited By Brian Abbott on 27/09/2020 21:20:10

Thanks Bo’sun

Will get some danish oil and give that a try.

Thanks all for taking the time to reply.

I took the option just to re glue the joints and clamp which seems to have worked ok.

Now in the process of sanding it all back.

What’s my best option to varnish it?, should I just use something like ronseal satin with a built in stain?

thanks again.

Thanks Martin, Steve.

I have added some photos to my album in the toolbox folder.

Looks like the joint is not glued and will come apart ok so i could try that.

Not model engineering but I could do with some woodwork advice.

I have an old wooden toolbox that I would like to restore.

It looks like it has had a really bad coat of varnish at some point in its life which I guess I can just sand back and re-varnish (?)

The problem I have is the side of the box has bowed across its width, and the finger joint has come apart.

Is there any way I can flatten this or should I just leave alone?

Thanks for any help

Well found, was a very interesting read.

Hello, not really any help but there was a write up in one of the ME magazines a short time ago.

i cannot remember which edition it was but i am sure someone will know.

If i remember correctly is was over 2 editions.

Thank you, i didn’t think anyone followed this build,

Progress is slow admittedly, work and family take priority, but it’s getting there.

Thanks all for your help and advice.

Thanks Paul.

I have re-read the book tonight, and he does clearly say that this arrangement suffers from "link slip" and to leave a little free space in the link slot beyond the die block ( his words ).

As suggested by Dan I have tried clamping the reach rod with a couple of mm clearance in the link slot and it does seem ok (ish) so I think I need to finish all the reverse lever assembly and set everything up properly.

I am fairly sure everything is made correctly, I know when I made the eccentric rods I did take care, but costs nothing to check these things.

Thanks for the advice.

Thanks Dan.

You've just hit the nail on the head, don’t know why i didn’t see it myself.

As explained in the book, leave a little room for the slide block to move.

Just need need to check the valve travel.

Update!

Much better but still happening, problem is i don’t think i have enough through to open the valve correctly.

Never kind, keep looking

Edited By Brian Abbott on 18/06/2020 14:20:41

Hello All

I am having a problem with a bouncing link assembly when in reverse.

Thought a video might explain it better than i can, just hope it works.

Any help would really be appreciated.

Thanks

Link Arm

Edited By Brian Abbott on 18/06/2020 13:04:42

Threading die's always had a taper on one side, the side marked with the size and logo, the over side did not have a taper, so you could thread up to a shoulder.

Today whilst trying to thread 5ba using a die supplied by a reputable dealer i could not get anywhere near the shoulder.

Is this something common to the Chinese supplied die's, does anyone know if the likes of dormer, presto are the same?

Thanks all.