Member postings for Neil Wyatt

It may be shellac based, in which case try meths.

Neil

> The distilled water was then demineralised

The stuff sold for batteries etc. isn't distilled first, just passed through an ion-exchange column, as I understand it.

Neil

The 36-wheeler low-loader is a pretty impressive piece of kit too!

Neil

Not every day you see one of these on the A50, MEW's forthcoming construction series?

Deltic D9016, Gordon Highlander.

Neil

Stan Bray envisioned a quarterly, or even less frequent special, not a monthly magazine. Series would have been impractical, if nothing else. The popularity and large circulation of MEW suggests that the balance isn't too far wrong, but like most things, it can be improved without spoiling what is good.

The loco idea was in jest, by the way...

Neil

Try Transwave at right - they sell static converters that will do the job you want without the cost or complexity of an inverter.

Neil

One thing not mentioned is that when the rust Fe2O3, which is much bulkier than the parent metal, becomes Fe3O2 (Magnetite) it has a similar volume to the metal lost (unlike rust it is not friable and does not contain a huge amount of water) and does not all detach. This means that you often end up with hard black stains that resemble a phosphated surface of similar dimensions and surface finish top the pre-rusted item, particlularly when the rust is only superficial.

In this way electrolysis can, to an extent, repair some of the damage caused by rust.

The example below is a 'Seal' crankshaft I was given, which was rusty enough to appear to be a scrapper when I got it..

Neil

Allan, that could be a symptom of too much valve advance. Take the valve cover off and make sure the valve port opens only by the tiniest amount before the piston hits dead centre. Advance and the accompanying expansive working are much less important on compressed air than steam, but this also means that engines are far fussier running on low pressure air than reasonable pressure steam.

It could also be friction near TDC; a big engine like that will react very freely to a small amount of air near the middle of its stroke, but that's not enough air to get over T/BDC.

You may have to fiddle a fair bit to get success, and the timing that works on air may be some way from what you would expect.

Neil

For clarity, I deleted my own post.

My feeling was that this thread, well meaning or otherwise, had the appearance of being a deliberate troll.

On reflection I withdrew it as I feared adding to the OP's previously expressed concern that they were being treated unfairly.

On further reflection, I think it is probably best that this thread is locked (I don't yet know how to do this) as this forum is for discussion of engineering, not haute cuisine.

Participants who have dim views for each other's opinions are respectfully encouraged to at least agree to make mutual use of the 'ignore member' button.

Neil

My bad memory Neville,

I just opened up the box (now only half full of oil), the worm is steel and it is the gear that wore. The worm was only bearing on the tips of the gear teeth and wore curved notches right across the top of each one. My adjustment brought the worm into proper engagement, I'm not sure quite what I changed.

Neil

In the days before MEW was a twinkle in Stan Bray's eye, the beginner to workshop practice was catered for by a proportion of the longer series in ME having a large dose of instruction as well as construction.

Perhaps MEW ought to feature an extended loco build series

Neil

Arnold Throp wrote Number 2 in the Workshop Practice Series 'Vertical Milling in the Home Workshop'.

Neil

People already send tips in for free to the letters page. I want more tips and I thought this would be the best way to reward the effort.

> I for one might find a submission to this less intimidating than a conventional article.

And yes, I hope this is a way for a lot more readers to get something in print.

Neil

Check the alignment of the worm gear in the square box below the motor. Mine was badly aligned and the worm had worn a lot. When I opened the gearbox it was full (as in brimming over) with oil that looked like gold leaf paint it had so much bronze in it. I don't remember how I had to adjust the worm gear and the attached wheel, but I do know the end result was better alignment and fewer shed blades. In time I suspect I will need a new worm and wheel.

Just make sure you have something ready to catch the oil!

Neil

Hi Ian,

Your 'suitable' pump sounds very much like my diaphragm compressor which I use with a small fire extinguisher bottle as a receiver (x12 safety margin). It has a reed valve and a propensity to stall just above 30psi.

Neil

Yes he was. He used the pen-name 'Stub Mangold'.

Neil

Just out of interest J A Radford used to make his own cutters from annealed HSS and harden them himself. It must therefore be possible to do it at home (not for everyone, I know, white heat, air blasts...) Let's face it, some people cast iron at home.

The ability to make an HSS gear hob, for example, would be quite useful. So my question is - does anyone still make their own HSS tools?

Neil

I use a bit of bent welding rod inside a plastic tube with holes cut in it (to prevent shorts), but the biggest thing I've de-rusted is only about 6 ounces.

Neil

For the record, an author who has been accused of padding out a series to make money, actually instructed us to make the payments direct to a totally independent good cause.

I'm happy to hear views on articles, but please don't make assumptions about the motivation and character of contributors.

Neil

READERS' TIPS

A message I have heard over and again since taking up the role of Editor of MEW is that readers want to see more short, practical tips.

From Issue 215 I plan to run a regular feature with tips from readers. As tips are typically rather short, it isn't practical to pay for them like articles, but I'd like to offer an incentive to send in tips.

I'm delighted to announce that the well known engineering suppliers Chester UK have stepped up to offer £30 in gift vouchers to each month's 'Top Tip'.

Email your simple workshop tips to me, Neil Wyatt, [email protected] marking them 'Readers Tips', and you could be a winner. Try to keep your tip to no more than 400 words and a picture or drawing. Every month I'll chose a selection for publication and the one chosen as 'Tip of the Month' will win £30 in gift vouchers from Chester Machine Tools. Visit www.chestermachinetools.com to plan how to spend yours!

There is only a short time to enter a tip for Issue 215, so what ae you waiting for!

PLEASE! Don't put your tips in this thread, only entries by email will be accepted.

Neil

No more than one prize with a value of £30 will be given each month. By entering you agree your entry can be freely published and republished MyTimeMedia on paper or electronically and may be edited before appearing. You will be acknowledged as the author of the tip. There is no guarantee that any entry will be published and if no publishable tips are received a prize will not be awarded. The decision of the editor is final.

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 11/03/2014 19:54:53