Member postings for John Baron

In that case its been nicked !

These are the pictures I took of it when visiting the Black Country Living Museum in Dudly Nr Birmingham.

Now I've not been to the Bolton Steam Museum yet, this blasted cov19 has seen to that !

These are the pictures that I took in 2017.

Edited By John Baron on 20/10/2020 09:10:06

Edited By John Baron on 19/10/2020 16:04:13

Yes Please.

Though I have no camera or mic.

By gum ! That brings back memories of the "Marfak" advert where to show how sticky it was they hit a blob of it with a hammer and it just stuck the hammer down. I used to have a tin of it with the picture on it.

Bill, these windows are only half the size of the window that these heaters are intended for, so if you use all the elements in one kit for each window you will have all the applied heat in less than half the area.

Using your scheme you would need to apply half the rated voltage on each window which putting them in series will achieve.

Electrically one end of one window element would be connected to the frame/body/chasis and the other end linked to one end of the other window element, the other end of that element would be supplied with 12 volts via a fuse and a switch.

Which would double the heat output on each window !

Hi CT,

If you only use half the strip length, you will only need half the voltage !

Using a closer spacing might overheat the glass locally.

You could use half on each window and put the elements in series and use 12 volts.

Hi Andy,

Even with a lathe handle I never thread a blind hole into the hole, if I can't use a tap then I thread from the bottom of the hole out wards ! No crashing into the bottom and you can do it under power with confidence.

Just one point, I use carbide threading inserts ! I stopped trying to grind HSS threading tools quite some time ago. You get nice threads even with a lathe handle. Most people seem to run into trouble by cutting too deep at one go.

Hi Alan, Guys,

The modern equivalent to the old chalk mark !

For what its worth, I just plunge straight in, but I do have reverse and try to cut away from the chuck with the tool at the back for external threads.

A winding handle is a useful thing to have. I used an old washing machine pulley. You can see the handle at the bottom of the wheel.

The brass collar is to stop you pushing the mandrel in too far and the wheel hitting the gear cover.

The expander is a simple tapered plug.

Hi John,

The longest keyway that I've cut using this method was a 4 mm one 50 mm long in steel though the bore was 1/2" rather than 12 mm. You do have to do it in little bites, the ram is nowhere as rigid as a hard HSS broach and you need lots of cutting fluid. I used Trefolex, I've also used RTD, of the two RTD is better, its more runny. I've also used this method with a ram sat on the cross slide of the lathe.

Good luck with your deep hole.

John:

Hi John, Guys,

You could always try my method of cutting small keyways into long holes !

This picture is cutting a 3 mm keyway into an aluminium timing pulley. The hole is 28 mm deep. 50 mm shouldn't be any harder.

For some reason the png drawing has not been placed in the album. But the pictures show how it is done.

The grub screw is used to push the cutter out in small increments, and the spring is used to hold the cutter in place and act as a returning force to keep the cutter pressed against the grubscrew.

The hole and bore in the bottom is there to allow the swarf to escape by falling through. I found that in the initial broach I made the swarf got pushed up behind the cutter causing it to become very tight to remove.

I'll rename the drawing and see if the forum will accept it.

Ah, seems that it did work this time.

Edited By John Baron on 01/10/2020 20:42:11

I'm sure "Machine Mart" would happily supply a new spindle !

Hi Guys,

this picture is intended to show a fly cut surface with a HSS cutter at 250 rpm and 0.5 mm DOC on EN1.

The actual work piece is a part for my grinding spindle support assembly.

The pin standing next to the block will be a split collet that fits into the hole and clamps against a 20 mm post.

Hi Clive, Guys,

I did try with a carbide insert but I found that they chipped very easily, usually when they hit the edge of the work. probably not suitable for too large a DOC.

Square HSS was the best to use and much easier to clamp. I think that getting the tool radius right and a shallow back rake, about 5 degrees giving more support to the cutting edge is about right.

Hi Guys,

I designed and made my own fly cutters, because I found that that style of fly cutter was not very rigid and tended to flex. This is what I came up with,

20 mm diameter shaft with a 75 mm steel disc and a piece of 1/4" square HSS. The cutter is double ended so you can have to cutting profiles, one on each end. I can take a 1 mm DOC in steel with this. I run this between 250 and 500 rpm depending upon depth of cut and how good a finish I want.

Avon tap & die are good too

www.avontapdie.co.uk

Hi Guys,

3.5" floppy disc's die of old age, particularly if they have been allowed to get damp at some point !

What happens is the adhesive holding the magnetic media to the hub looses its stickeyness and the hub can no longer drive the media.

I've just scrapped 2500 of them for similar reasons. If you hold the media it should not allow you to rotate the hub.

Hi Michael,

Open it in a text editor then you can see what's in it.

Hi Gary,

Replace the charger unit and test again !

Hello Mike,

I'd forgotten that I had put pictures of my soft jaws and the modifications that I did to make them far more useful.

The commercial soft jaws that I bought from Cromwell are the ones behind the new aluminium ones screwed on to the front of them

The beauty of doing this is that I can just throw them away and screw another set on the front. A very big advantage is no run out ! You put a piece of round bar in the chuck behind to clamp onto and machine the jaws to suit whatever you want to hold in them. You can see in these pictures a step in the original soft jaws where they were machined for a particular job.