Member postings for Jon Gibbs

+1 Dave

...but like democracy, to misquote Churchill... Prison is the worst form of punishment, except for all the others.

Jon

...but it has been widely reported that the reason acid is becoming a weapon of choice is precisely to avoid being caught - no DNA and little proof who the attacker is and lighter sentences than carrying and using a knife.

If this is true then there clearly is a fear of being caught IMHO.

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 16/07/2017 13:00:24

I hesitate to put an opposite point of view here but some regulation is necessary and does work.

Take gun control. We have some of the toughest gun controls anywhere, and I know the complete ban on pistols is OTT, but the upside is that our home grown Islamist terrorists have only been able to use vehicles and wield knives in their attacks - thankfully. In countries where semi and automatic weapons are more available (e.g. Paris Bataclan and Charlie Hebdo), the death toll in similar attacks has been much higher.

Would it really do much harm to have corrosive products under lock and key and sell them to over 18's with ID only?

I also think that corrosive liquids in squirt bottles should be reclassified as offensive weapons and the intent to mutilate and maim needs to be taken more seriously in sentencing.

Jon

Brilliant! Really made me smile.

Hi Maurice,

Steve Jordan on Youtube has some useful videos on the ML7 countershafy bushes that might help...

**LINK**

HTH

Jon

Sodium bicarb works for extreme gap filling. Crushed up small the superglue sets hard as it fills the matrix of crystals. Good for sloppy joints.

Spit works well too when the accelerator is too far away of course.

The advantage of the quality accelerators is that they don't turn the superglue white and opaque. It stays clear. I use zapit.

HTH

Jon

+1 - Watched it yesterday.

Really interesting and was really impressed how easily the tool cut ...

...but was also quite reassured that even Tom Lipton took two attempts to achieve the necessary clearance.

Jon

+1 for Bazyle's comment.

The choices are,

1. toothed key engaged with bronze gear teeth and the lever in the lower position (lower gear cluster in the disengaged position) - (direct drive).
2. toothed key disengaged from bronze gear teeth and lever in the upper position (lower gear cluster engaged with the bull gear and the bronze gear on pulley cluster) - (back-gears).

In direct drive the pulley is effectively locked with the larger drive gear using the toothed key.

In back gears, the bronze gear attached to the pulley cluster is loose on the main lathe shaft and meshes with the larger gear on the lower cluster, which is connected to the smaller gear on the lower cluster, which in-turn drives the upper large gear (bull gear) which is connected to the main lathe shaft. (Remember to oil the pulley on the main lathe shaft with Nuto 32 in back-gears).

If it's still slipping in direct drive then you might wish to check out this thread http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=109042

Hope this helps

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 02/07/2017 20:17:55

You say you've disengaged the wedge (I assume you mean the toothed key on the bull wheel - see the socket head capscrew on the larger of the two gears on the main spindle labelled 1)

...but have you lowered the lever that controls the backgear cluster (4 &5) underneath the spindle nose? (the lever with the black knob in the bottom right hand corner of the picture)

HTH

Jon

That's an interesting option. It does seem to be available in small quantities on ebay from Germany

- It's also known as Wood's metal or Rose's metal FYI.

Jon

I have an old Earlex 1000W shop vac which I think is the same as the Wickes model.

Cheap and cheerful and I've been waiting for it to die for years but it keeps going strong.

The filter cartridge is worth buying.

HTH

Jon

I agree with Rik - The book "Milling: A Complete Course (Workshop Practice)" is just £6.95 on Amazon and has all of the plans and the recommended updates on HH's website are essential reading IMHO here **LINK**.

I bought the book (so if there is any copyright fee then it goes to Harold), checked HH's website and then ordered the materials from M-Machine.

Jon

Just out of interest is that the cheap Axminster £60 one?

I've been wondering about one of those for a while.

Jon

Is this any use? **LINK**

[Edit: See the bottom of the page entitled "303/319/320: Rotating base"]

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 23/06/2017 11:51:44

It's a real tragedy - for the uninformed sparklett bulbs look so benign but contain a hell of a lot of energy.

I remember as a kid one of my mates hitting a sparklett bulb with a sledge hammer - it went off like a bomb and made a neat dent in the block wall of his parents' garage!

I'm not sure if he got a b*ll*cking - can't remember - but I got away with it in both sense of the word.

Jon

I can recommend Thomas Grahams in the Cumbria area (**LINK**).

I use them for long lengths and M-Machine for smaller lengths.

Jon

Hi Rainbows,

I think that one of the key problems with using a jig and a bench grinder is that most grinders have rubber feet allowing them to vibrate independently of the jig. The first job IMHO is therefore to firmly fix the grinder body to the same base as the jig. Then as others have said dress the grindstone face that's being used.

The only decent way of doing this for accurate grinding is with a controlled single point diamond IMHO. You can use devilstones or diamond matrix dressers but IME it simply results in a wheel face that's still very uneven and pitted IMHO. Ok for freehand grinding but not much use for precise jig work.

I don't see any reason why you can't use the drill grinder jig on the front of the wheel but it would mean getting your other grinding rests, if you have them, out of the way somehow. Harold Halls mag-bases would provide the obvious answer to achieve this though... **LINK**

Grinding on the front edge also means your drill cutting edges would need to be horizontal when they are ground. The primary clearance facet would be flat enough in the end but the secondary clearance (assuming a 4-facet drill grind) will end up hollow-ground but under most circumstances that's just fine.

HTH

Jon

Joe,

Can't you just arrange for the stock to be the other way round in the vice to achieve that?

Hold the offcut in the vice and support the bulk of the stock out-board.

On my little bandsaw I used a couple of mods Neil proposed (Edit: see below) of bolting a short length of angle-iron as a vice bed extension and a bolt through the jaws to take up the empty slack and they help greatly for "reversing" the cuts.

HTH

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 15/06/2017 11:06:18

Have you thought about using the lathe (with a mop on a MT pig-tailed arbor and appropriately covered bed-ways of course) or perhaps better still an old woodlathe.

Most woodturners will use their lathe with appropriate polishing mops and compounds for polishing turned timber items - myself included.

Chris at clickspring **LINK** about 5 minutes in, talks about a buffing attachment for his small watchmakers lathe and I could envisage a similar item could be rigged for more conventional sized parts.

HTH

Jon

Sorry Mike, I just couldn't resist having a dig.

As a kid of the early 60's I was educated first in imperial at junior school and later in metric at secondary school and so I'm completely bi-lingual and can think in either set of units. Both my milling machine and lathe are imperial and yet I still have no trouble working in metric dimensions with either machine.

...but I believe that the emotive and sentimental attachment to archaic dimensions is nothing short of bonkers - that was perhaps obvious.

Jon