Member postings for john robinson 6

Howdy, I've modified my homebuilt sync, I'm either using ball bearings on all the arbor pivots, or I made the part as a ball bearing. The roller is now a ball bearing but is still mounted on its' arbor with hand broached pivot bearings, the back click is a ball bearing, and its' arbor is also on ball bearings. Because the click ball bearing has an inner and outer race, the bend of the click wire cannot make contact with the outer race, and thus is free turning. I "pinched" (made wider) the end of the wire to keep the bearing in position on the wire.
The armature pivots, gravity arm catch pivots, count wheel pivots, and the gravity arm pivots are all on ball bearings, using Dynaroll SR0 A5 .0469 bore...I'm not trying to improve the synchronome so much as improving my lack of ability to make hand broached pivot bearings to a high degree of freedom and accuracy....

I hope to have this clock running by early next week with an unannealed Invar pendulum rod. This weekend I'm beginning the assembly of an inert atmosphere heat treat oven to anneal the Invar rods I have.

thanks drive carefully. johnrobinson

Howdy,

I just finished my first assembly of a Synchronome clock based on the Engineering in Miniature build series written by Elliot Issacs.There were a couple of mistakes in the build series, dimensions for the roller support are incorrect, and drawings for the bearing plates for the gravity arm and the armature are missing. Other than those, the build went well, it takes a fair amount of hand adjustment to set the clock up to allow it to run easily, as the adjustment of the various parts to work together is critical. I used the CES backplate and Hope-Jones book "Electric Clocks and How To Make Them" to verify the magazine dimensions. I'm still working on the case, and hope to have the clock running soon. thanks drive carefully