Member postings for Redsetter

Early ML10s were a grey hammered finish and later ones were a light green hammered finish.

Currently readily available in UK and on ebay - "Paint Factory direct to metal hammered effect grey" in aerosol cans is a very good match for the ML10 grey.

I no longer have my 918/920 lathe, but I made a tumbler reverse for it based on one of the American designs which are available online. It worked well and was a straightforward modification, using an additional standard change wheel.

Anything wrong with using plain aluminium tube, or do you just want to make it as complicated and difficult as possible? I suspect the latter.

Juliet is often overlooked nowadays - simple, and powerful for its size, though the construction series is not one of LBSC's most detailed. Martin Evans' Rob Roy is another one to consider and has a detailed construction book.

Ian, I doubt if your problems are serious- it sounds as though you need someone to give you a hand to get started. Where are you located? I'm sure someone on here who is within reach would be happy to help.

Never mind about the can - does anyone have a good, cost effective, homebrewed substitute for WD40?

Never mind about the can - does anyone have a good, cost effective, homebrewed substitute for WD40?

Why do you need an automatic change over? You could just run the two bottles in parallel if you want a longer running time.

Have you or the village looked into the legal and insurance implications of using this in a public place? I'm sure you can build it safely to a good standard, but unless you are a qualified gas engineer it is probably best avoided. Just saying. .

Ian,

The reason why you have to pay "silly money" for the recognised fitting is that it will have been produced under strictly controlled conditions from the correct materials, and will have been properly tested and inspected at every stage. It will also be covered by the manufacturer's guarantee and public liability insurance.

I think you are taking an unacceptable risk.

If it is 1/2 BSP, as it seems to be, it would seem easier to use a tap, but at 100bar I think you should not be trying to cut corners. If the fitting is for a legitimate application in whatever the field is, then there should be a recognised fitting for the job and that should be used.

i

May we ask what you are making? With due respect, 100 bar air pressure does not sound much like model engineering. You may know exactly what you are doing, but I would have safety concerns about untested one-off components at such a high pressure.

It is 5/16 BSF.

I would be inclined to look for a secondhand 1/4 or 1/3 hp, it should not be expensive, and you will have more to spend on tooling. These motors are quite robust, and if it works it will probably go on working for a long time. It might even come with a suitable pulley!

That is a good question. No experience with these, but my feeling is that a trace of lubrication would do no harm, as clearly a nice sliding fit is required. However it doesn't move very often, and the metals are dissimilar, so it is probably OK dry.

I am absolutely certain that others, with equal lack of experience, will advise you differently.

The NAWCC forum is worth a look for this sort of thing.

Today is the 81st anniversary of the disappearance of Amelia Earhart and Fred Noonan in a Lockheed Electra over the Pacific.

Whatever you may think of AE as a person or as a pilot, she had plenty of guts. She had a good aeroplane (or should that be airplane?) and plenty of fuel, and she was used to flying long distances over water.

So, what went wrong?

Either 1/4 or 1/3 hp, single phase, running at around 1400 rpm will be fine, assuming you have a countershaft and the back gears. That is what it would have originally, and is all you need.

Google "Brocot suspension."

I think the problem arises because the original ML 10 top slide was not designed to have a 4 way toolpost, just a single tool clamped directly onto the slide.

I had similar situation on my ML10 which has a "foreign" top slide, and I took quite a bit of material off the slide and the toolpost, using the 4 jaw chuck and an alternative toolpost mounted on the cross slide as I had no other machine available. This worked out well, though at the expense of the indexing ratchet.

If you only need 2mm or so you should be able to take all that safely off the toolpost, and if you have a mill you can do it be deepening the tool slots rather than reducing the underside. The lower flange on my toolpost is now 7mm thick and it still seems very substantial, so 6mm is perhaps a safe limit.

I hope this is some help.