Here is a list of all the postings Alan Waddington 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: harrison l5 start gear |
22/05/2019 21:47:04 |
Yeah, they are dead easy to do, strip the motor and star point is fairly easy to find....... Well it was on the ones I did anyhow. |
22/05/2019 20:48:35 |
Have a read of this Thomas **LINK**
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22/05/2019 20:46:10 |
I Think it will run, but not properly, probably find it will stall under load, never tried it to be fair. whip the motor cover off and see how many wires are coming out of the motor, you need six. |
22/05/2019 20:32:27 |
You really need to wire the inverter direct to the motor and not through any of the lathe switchgear. ive converted a couple of L5’s to run from inverters, and in each case had to dig the star point out of the motor. so unless yours has had the motor swapped at some time to a star/delta motor, you will need to do the same. |
Thread: HSS or CS taps and dies |
20/05/2019 13:10:23 |
Was in the same boat recently, needed to tap some 5/8 20tpi cycle threads and my drawer full of miscellaneous, randomly accquired taps was not forthcoming. Due to the price of HSS i bought a set of three carbon taps from RDG for the princely sum of £12.46 and so far they have performed faultlessly, im using them in Stainless Steel, which is hard on the best of tooling. |
Thread: Harrison L5 thread cutting |
18/05/2019 13:44:43 |
Assuming it has a norton gearbox fitted (some L5’s don’t) You need a 127 tooth wheel to cut metric threads Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 18/05/2019 13:45:54 |
Thread: Natural gas for TIG welding |
17/05/2019 10:18:34 |
Posted by John Rutzen on 17/05/2019 08:55:12:
Hi, seriously, I've been thinking of a TIG machine for Sifbronze welding of steel. Apparently the process works very well. Has anyone any experience of this using these cheap chinese welders? The Aliexpress one looks quite a good deal. abut £112. You can also get German ones on Amazon for less than £200. The argon can be got by putting a deposit on a bottle of around £60, which is not time limited [ you can keep it for as long as you like] and if you return it you get the deposit back less 20%. The refill costs around £35 for 10cu m.
Can confirm, yes it does work very well, no idea what the cheap chinese tigs perform like though. Oh and the rods will make your eyes water, last pack i bought cost more than the Aliexpress welder you mention !
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Thread: DIY Bed Gap |
24/04/2019 22:09:44 |
Did a pair for a mate once as he was skint, foulest shittiest job ever, rust and crap everywhere, took forever to clean up afterwards, lathe, workshop and myself...........never again. Unless they off something exotic rare or classic, not worth the aggro, modern discs are dirt cheap and consumable Personally wouldn’t consider butchering a lathe for the purpose.
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Thread: Tap and die question |
22/04/2019 09:49:41 |
Have a job to do that requires a 5/8 x 20 tpi CEI thread, material is stainless. a quick search online shows HSS taps are around £30 each. RDG sell a set of 3 carbon taps for £12 but not convinced these will perform so well in stainless The Tap and die company do ‘HQS’ taps for £12 a piece. Is this just fancy marketing speak for carbon steel, or are they genuinely better than carbon ? |
Thread: Notre Dame |
16/04/2019 22:31:00 |
Funny job the religion thing.......That book they follow is packed with dire warnings about the dangers of hoarding wealth, and advocates giving it all to the needy........guess the catholic church just skip those pages |
Thread: Viceroy AEW |
16/04/2019 16:28:29 |
Not had that particular mill, but have had several similar, Tom Senior etc, last one was a lovely universal Delta Hero, Found them all frustrating due to lack of daylight, you run out of room very quickly. Vertical heads are also pretty useless for drilling, as it’s hard to feel whats going on when cranking a handle. And of course you can only drill vertical holes. I wouldn’t consider a mill without a quill now, it just makes everything so much easier. |
Thread: Notre Dame |
16/04/2019 09:11:34 |
Can’t help thinking the money it will take to rebuild could be better spent elsewhere, its just a building when all’s said and done. |
Thread: Simple WorkshopTips |
05/04/2019 00:38:32 |
Don’t wear slippers when welding 👍 |
Thread: 2 pack, enamel...paint advice please! |
03/04/2019 22:32:18 |
.As per David’s post, Dacrylate sprays lovely, Thinner is Xylene, (badged as R5 by Dacrylate.) Just wear a decent filter mask. Like most xylene based paints, you have to recoat within a couple of hours, or leave for a couple of days between coats, or it crizzles. i found a quick light tack coat, leave 20 mins ( depends on temp) to dry, followed by a heavier coat, and a final coat thinned down a bit more works a treat. You can get a decent finish straight from the gun, but i let the paint harden for a week and then flatted with 1500 wet and dry, and polished with a rotary polisher using Farecla G3, much like you would with car paint, It has good resistance to oils and cutting fluids etc and is pretty tough. |
Thread: Cincinnati 207MK restoration |
28/03/2019 21:07:48 |
You do realise it’s probably 10hp or more.......plus motors for the feeds etc, gonna take one hell of a rotary converter unless you have 3 phase on tap ! |
28/03/2019 20:32:43 |
Usually machines end up in the scrap yard for good reason, just because the ways are good, doesn’t mean it’s not paggered. Big old lump though, maybe it got weighed in for the scrap weight......Large Horizontal machines are not generally sought after, so in turn dont fetch much. Have you seen this thread on PM **LINK** Guess if you have a burning desire to own a big horizontal, and it’s dirt cheap, then worth a punt. |
Thread: Cap head screws |
21/03/2019 14:19:36 |
If you want to buy online, iv’e used Orbital fasteners in the past, found them good quality and reasonably priced.
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Thread: J&S 540 Manual PDF |
19/03/2019 09:53:33 |
Recently done a maintenance job on mine.....cleaned out tank, replaced hydraulic oil, took bed off and cleaned out oil feeds, replaced spindle oil etc. Fairly easy job, found oil grade info online, rest was common sense, so no manual required. Having never used one, controls were easy enough to figure out without a manual. Wheel balancing info is available on youtube amongst other places. So unless you intend delving deeper into the works, reckon a manual is not a must. Saying all that, a week or so after finishing the job, i found an original manual hiding in the back of the wheel balancing cabinet |
Thread: Hardinge lathe on fleabay |
18/03/2019 22:06:23 |
Posted by Boiler Bri on 18/03/2019 21:13:28:
Looks to have had a cosmetic job done. Bed looks ok. Wonder what it sounds like 🤔 Yeah it’s definitely been given a lick over, but at that age hardly surprising, don’t think i would buy without seeing first though. |
Thread: All things Beaver Mill |
11/03/2019 22:10:57 |
Posted by Mark Rand on 11/03/2019 21:51:13:
Don't know about removal, other than removing the nut from the top of the drawbar and taking it out downwards. The reason is almost certainly that the splined part Beaver spindle isn't really big enough for a 5/8" drawbar. So it's probably 1/2" (same as the NMTB30 spindles) with a larger extension at the lower end where there's more meat on the spindle, Edited By Mark Rand on 11/03/2019 21:54:04 Yeah i did consider the downward route Mark, top nut is welded on though, so it would be grinder time.......will have to be done. Been considering adapting to a power drawbar anyway, so now might be the the time. Thanks for the advice
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