Member postings for Alan Waddington 2

Sorry Alan, but that’s not correct

Need a bit more info, boiler make/model etc.

However generally speaking blown fuses are usually down to pump, or water leaking into diverter head.

Reckon if it was the bearings, your ears would be the first to know, have encountered a few M300’s with problem headstocks and every one sounded like a bag of spanners.

I’m inclined to agree, seeing that the OP has bought a coil after i offered to send him some for free ........Oh well, i tried !

Just read your post above mine, john guest barrier pipe doesnt use aluminium as the barrier, its all plastic.

Have got a coil of unused Pex pipe 16mm, left over from when i laid my underfloor heating.......how much do you need ? PM me your address and i will send you it.

Depends on what type of paint it is. I used to use xylene based industrial paint for a particular job and for a silk or matt finish the supplier just added a percentage of a flattening agent to the gloss at mixing stage.

For small jobs using rattle cans from the motor factors i have succesfully used colour with a matt laquer over the top to get a flatter finish.

You could maybe try a small test piece first to check for finish or reaction.

Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 08/12/2018 06:30:34

Yup mesh is what you need

According to the plate its a star /delta dual voltage motor, so should definitely have at least 6 wires emerging.

If there are 3 wires going to the neutral point, you’re in luck, otherwise you will need to dismantle the motor and dig out the star point.

There are 3 seperate windings in the motor, so if you do have six wires emerging already, its fairly easy to work out which pairs go together using continuity on a multimeter or a battery and bulb.

Once you have the ends of the three seperate windings identified, join them as pairs i.e keep each winding seperate and connect the three phases from your inverter to the three pairs.

Well a bit more progress......Sort of

Pulled the drive belt off and both motor and spindle spin freely. (Phew!)

Tried running the motor with no belt on and it works fine. So happy that motor is ok.

Think the issue is my RPC can’t supply enough initial current to spin the motor up with the belt on, the load must just be too high.

Strange really as the RPC idler motor is 3hp, and nothing bad is happening inside the RPC cabinet, no blown fuses, nothing getting hot etc.......Grinder motor just growls and the note of the idler motor changes to a stressed tone.

So guess i need to build a bigger RPC, 5 hp maybe, Don’t really fancy the inverter route for this machine, as there are potentially 3 motors running when the vac is on.

Never simple is it

Thanks Mark, think i’m going to pull the grinder out from the wall at the weekend and investigate further. Was hoping a clean up and service was all it needed, but that seems not to be the case..........bugger

Thanks for the reply’s.......when i first got the machine i powered up the head and it spun up no problem, however the head was virtually dry as the oil level sightglass was broken and the oil was thick and filthy

So now iv’e cleaned the machine up a bit, changed the hydraulic oil, replaced the sightglass and put fresh oil/kerosine in the head, removed the table and cleaned out the oil feed holes etc.

Also manouvered it tight against a wall ( A pig to move) and levelled it up with shims.

I tested it yesterday and the spindle motor seemed to be having trouble starting, Lots of humming and sparks coming from the contactor, so i stripped out the contactor, cleaned up the contacts and away it went.

Played about grinding things for approx an hour to get a feel for the controls etc. The head was just warm, not hot. Turned it off and then tried to restart, but no chance. Wired the motor direct and it still wont spin up, it just hums.

The spindle feels tighter than i would have imagined, so am guessing either spindle is tight or motor bearings are shot. Was trying to avoid having to move the machine again, but motor and belt access is from the rear, so looks like i will have to.

Something else im not sure about too. The oil catching resevoir tube in the head had another tin split tube clipped over it, which seems to defeat the object as it would stop oil from getting caught in the trough and looks a bit home made......Any ideas ? See pics

Anyone out there have a J&S 540, am wondering how freely the wheel spins when not under power.

Alan, have you removed the lathe end panel and checked that all is well with the change gears etc.

The whole gearbox and in turn both lead screw and carriage drive are fed from there.

Have had both shafts out of my student 1800 in the past, but for the life of me i can’t remember how they actually picked up the drive from the gearbox

On my old Harrison you had the option of stopping the shafts driving by turning a knurled sleeve where the shafts entered the gearbox, but fairly sure they are not present on the Student.

Unfortunately i cant get to my lathe at the minute to inspect.

May not help but here is a cutaway of the gearbox

**LINK**

Strange , this is the message i get........

alspeed, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
2. To see and attach images you need to have donated to the upkeep of board and become a supporter.
3. Only the member who has posted an advert in the For Sale board my reply to the post.

I’m a member of TT, but still can’t view the images in the ‘for sale’ section.......Think you have to contribute to the forum financially to be worthy

Yeah as Simon suggests, i reckon MT3 would have been an alternative to R8 from the factory, not a retro fit item.

R8 is really a better system for milling than MT, and as it was widely used in industrial machines, Bridgeport etc, there is a wealth of secondhand tooling about.

What parts do you need Ray ?

Cleaned out the surface grinder oil tank........ Reckon it might have been just a tad overdue!