Member postings for Grotto

Thanks everyone,

I think I’ll just leave it as is short term

I'll see how much use it gets before I make any changes, but lots of good inf.

Hi all,

I recently got an old belt drive air compressor.

It woks well, reasonably quiet, but when it hits maximum pressure the motor does not shut off.

It sounds like the compressor stops pumping and the motor isn’t working as hard, but motor keeps running.

There’s no pressure switch to shut down, just a valve to adjust output pressure.

Is it just a matter of fitting a pressure switch in the line somewhere?

My knowledge of air compressors is very limited and I previously thought the motors always switched off when maximum pressure was reached.

Thanks

I've got a similar size collection of bits which came with a lathe I purchased decades ago.

I've used quite a few of them over the years, nearly always find one just the right shape for anything a bit different. They are all shaped and sharpened by someone with much better skills than me which is nice.

I'd keep them if you have space.

I've a similar tool (which I can’t find to photograph), which is for honing brake cylinders. Mine has what look like tiny beads on the wires.

I used it a lot on old style brake cylinders for drum brakes when replacing the seals.

Only vehicles I encounter now with drum brakes have cables rather than hydraulic so won’t be needing to find mine anytime soon.

More of a question than an answer, but could you heat the HSS to reduce hardness the reheat and quench after milling?

I've never tried this.

Hi Chris,

I made a packing block out of a lump of cast iron.

His attaches to the cross slide the same way as the top slide did, and is drilled & tapped to allow me to bolt my tool post to it.

I'm surprised at the improvement in rigidity with the top slide gone. It was only meant to be a temporary set up, but it’s become fairly permanent.

Hi Chris,

There seem to be a few owners of MD65's on here so I'm sure you'll get some help. If you add a photo of the offending part(s) it would be good.

I’m just wondering if it's the cross slide which is faulty or the top slide (which is what tool post bolts to). I may have my terminology mixed up as I no expert.

If it is the top slide, you could just remove it and mount the tool post on the cross slide.

I've done that with my lathe, I just have a spacer under the tool post. I only ever use the top slide for cutting tapers and threads larger then about 1.5mm pitch.

It’s a pity you don’t live locally, as I've got a spare one you could have.

They’re the sort of thing you pick up cheap at markets with 2 or 3 blunt drills in.

Thanks Michael,

I can’t see myself needing to check any turbine bearings in the foreseeable future. Maybe I can repurpose it.

I'm wondering what this tool is called, and what it would be used for?

it's a Moore & Wright micrometer, It measures depth around 100mm +/-.

Ive had it for 30 years plus, can’t recall where it came from.

It looks like you can reduce depth measured using gauge blocks with holes in them.

Depth rod doesn’t appear to be removable.

Edited By Grotto on 31/08/2021 00:33:27

Thanks for all the advice.

I've fitted a by-pass. I put a tap on it, but it wasn’t necessary and didn’t seem to add anything so I took it off.

I was running the by-pass into a T joint with the sump hose, but the sump was draining slowly, so I've separated them, and the sump drains fine, even on full flow.

Nozzle is work in progress.

Here in Auckland, we're in lockdown, so no chance to buy anything. I'm having to make do with what I've got and spends a few hours making stuff you can normally buy down the road for a few dollars, but I’m not getting bored.

I fitted a ball valve which slows flow. I haven’t set up a nozzle yet, but it looks like valve needs to be almost closed.

I like the sound of a by-pass. I suspect it had one as the hose from the pump had a T joint on it. I’ll refit the T and route one branch back to the tank with the ball valve on it.

Thanks Paul, I have a similar nozzle I bought years ago but never fitted. It used compressed air flow to suck coolant up a thin tube which ran through the nozzle to a brass spray jet at the end. I think I can butcher ot to make something workable.

John Fletcher - I read a post recently about someone having problems joining “hose”. It seems you need a special tool to get pieces to clip together.

John P - drainage flow rate isn’t as high as I’d like, but it will be a hassle to improve easily. Once I've fitted a by-pass I don’t think there will be an issue, but I'll make sure I keep an eye on it.

Thanks!

I'll try putting a ball valve on it, and see if I can find my lockline look-a-like nozzle. I’ll make sure hoses are clamped.

should I be using any inline filter? I've got mesh in the drip tray sump, but not very fine.

I don’t really need a coolant pump on my lathe, but saw one with a tank which fits perfectly in my Boxford, and couldn’t resist it for $10.

Hi all,

I've just fitted a coolant pump to my lathe.
It's a small 240 volt single phase unit.

It only has an on/off switch, no speed control.

I haven’t rigged up a nozzle yet, just a hose.

when it’s on, fluid come out as fast as water from a domestic low pressure tap. I reckon it comes out faster than 2 litres a minute (spec on pump) after a few seconds I switch it off as drip tray would flood if I left it on.

Is there any easy way to slow it down?

The outlet hose is about 11mm ID - I’m unsure if I reduce if I’ll get the same volume but as a jet.

Electricty & associated stuff (resistors, capacitors, etc) is like nuclear physics to me, so unsure if a potentiometer (?) would work?

Thanks Gavlar,

I think you must be right.

I've discovered some of my tool holders allow me to hit centre height with some tools, so I can mount my myford/Dixon qctp and have 3 usable tools.

There’s no way I can use my parting tool so I'll make a rear mounting one to suit.

I tempted to have a try at making a qctp to fit on the cross slide, buy may have a go at making a mounting plate to fit between cross slide and myford/Dixon qctp first.

It’s a 4.5” Boxford BUD, maybe Mk3

Thanks guys,

The lathe is 4.5"

Tail stock lines up with centre.

Measurements are;

Bed to top of cross slide is just over 2"

Bed to top of top slide is just over 4".

Serial number is BUD 111 350265 (guessing this means a MK3?)

I bought it from someone clearing out their dad's house. He'd knew nothing about it other than it had been in the garage for decades. It was originally a school lathe.

Cross slide looks they same as on the MK3 Pete posted, although that one is either a 5", or the heights are different, as there seems to be enough room for the qctp.

Here's a pic of my top slide...

I’ve checked again, only 15mm from top of cross slide to centre. The ML7 had more, probably 20mm

Hi all,

I've replaced my ML7 with a Boxford BUD, and am wanting to fit a quick change tool post.

I've tried fitting the Myford/Dixon one I have (36mm high), but only a few of my tools sit low enough when fitted in the holder.

The bottom of the toolholder hits the top of the topslide and tool is still above centre height.

The distance from centre to top of top slide is 15mm.

I've had a think, and reckon best solution may be to take off the top slide and mount a QCTP on the cross slide.

I wondered if there are any alternatives, or if anyone had done this?

I'm not sure how I'd go about attaching a tool post to the cross slide - if I should try to turn up something to fit in the hole where the top slide sits, or just drill & tap holes.

My cross slide has only one T slot in it

Any help/advice most appreciated