Here is a list of all the postings Ady Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Telescopic tube locking collar advice needed |
26/01/2020 20:06:35 |
Thanks for the replies I appreciate it. Yeah I can see the general idea from the drawings. I will have a go, I have some acetal rod to make the fittings from. |
25/01/2020 19:38:05 |
I want to make a locking collar similar to those found on telescopic tubes/poles. Examples being mops and paint roller extensions for painting ceilings. I need it to be a twist type where the tube can be extended then locked in position with a quick turn of the collar. I have been scouring google but cant find any good info on how they work, has anyone made or knows of a simple design and could give me some pointers to information? I would greatly appreciate it. cheers, Ady. |
Thread: How much can a chuck effect finish? |
18/04/2019 21:36:52 |
Mount some stock in the chuck and put dial gauge on it. Put some pressure on the stock and see how much deflection is there. Then move the dial gauge and put it against the head stock. Push on the bar again and see if there is any deflection. I you are getting deflection on the head stock then your problem will be there, might need tightening down. It happened to me once and baffled me for a while because I was not expecting the movement there. Adrian. |
Thread: Just splashed out on a precision instrument |
24/11/2017 22:46:39 |
Posted by IanT on 24/11/2017 22:30:53:
Many of my tools didn't have an 'enginery' number Ady - but since I've put one on them, I do feel they are a lot more accurate. IanT haha nice one Ian. I think I might print out a few certificates to go with my tools would probably increase their value aswell as accuracy |
24/11/2017 21:16:03 |
I just wish all my tools had an "enginery" number, it sounds very professional. |
24/11/2017 19:45:17 |
Just spent some hard earned on this very rare dial indicator by the well respected company Miluloyo. I have always wanted one but sadly they were always out of my price range. I got it off Ebay and I am guessing that someone at the factory perhaps pinched it because it obviously never got to the inspector for quality checkup or even got an enginery number. I bought it because I lost the stylus/lever of mine and it was going to be £5 quid for a new one so I took a flyer on this for £8 delivered. I trammed a vice in with it today and it worked perfectly well. The cheap copies done by Mitutoyo come in at over a £100 so I think i got a deal getting the real thing so cheap. Ady. |
Thread: New Lathe Problems advice needed |
20/11/2017 15:57:50 |
UPDATE** I got a reply saying "Although there may be an issue as you have stripped down a brand new machine whilst still under warranty and without consent, in this case it has quite clearly highlighted the issue that you have with the machine." They will send someone to pick it up when I have it back together and on pallet (which i still have). They have also offered me another replacement machine or a full refund. I said I will think things over and let them know. So I can only say that they have been very fair and am happy and relieved at the outcome. They also said that when they get to look at the machine they will get on to the factory about it. So all good news. |
20/11/2017 10:48:51 |
I have just emailed Chester with pictures of Head stock and video link of chatter and fact feeler gauge can be put in between mating surfaces. Just wait and see what they say? I would be happy if the sent me another Head Stock, but would that fit? |
20/11/2017 10:10:54 |
Here`s a video I made just to give another visual on the problem. I can get a 0.05mm feeler gauge and in places a 0.08mm between the bed and head stock in too many places. https://youtu.be/uPgcLETS4C0 |
20/11/2017 09:23:08 |
Take a look at this video of a guy in America who is checking the quality of his Grizzly lathe G0602 which is essentially the same 10x22 lathe sold under many names in the UK. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVwsnTYWF4c I think a lot of people have machines that are good enough to do what they want for them but in reality if you strip these Chinese machines down I think most would be suprised how far out they really are. There is no way to get the maximum out of a machine with these kind of tolerances. I think it would be a big ask to presume that if I ask Chester to replace the machine it will be much better made. The test sheet which came with the machine gives correct data for runout etc.. (although I have not checked all of it) but obviously all that means nothing if mating surfaces are only contacting in a few places. Also there is no way Chester could have known about this fault as it took me a good few hours to diagnose it and then strip it down to see what was going on. I bought my milling machine from SPG Tools a couple of years ago and have been very happy with it, I seem to remember when ordering that they set them up themselves before sending them out which is good to know. I dont know with other dealers if they check the function of the machine before sending it out? An inspection record of a machine is handy to have but like I just said it doesnt cover quality of surfaces and build, only things like runout and parallelism. China makes a ridiculous amount of stuff nowadays, we make nothing. We wont pay people to build quality things anymore it is easier for the big money men to farm it all out to China, India etc.. If you have a problem with your phone or bank and ring for help you get put through to India. What else is there to say? What I have learned in life is if you want something right then you have to do it yourself because the fact of the matter is when you buy something the company that made it got the job because they could do it cheaper than anyone else.That speaks volumes. I just find it ironic that a place like the UK which was at the forefront of the industrial revolution cant even produce equipment like it used to and it has instead opted to let others build what we would class as sub standard products for us to buy. I am going to let Chester know about the machine but am not going to build it back up because I really believe if they send me another the surface tolerances are not going to be what I want them to be (everywhere). If they want to send me a new Head stock casting to replace the rubbish one that would be appreciated. Whats interesting is my old lathe which I bought new a few years ago, a clarke CL500m has been a solid reliable machine but lacked a lot of features. That machine is also sold under many names across the globe. I wondered why they had never changed the model for something newer and I guess it must be because for what they are they are half decent machines. Obviously they are made in china too but their manufacturer must be someone they can trust to supply a reliable quality of product. I mean some of these factories over there must not even have a quality control department. If you or I worked in a factory and were given that head stock I am sure we would take it back to parts or wherever we had got it from and asked them for another. But I think over there it is a production line system where a bunch of zombies are paid simply to tighten nuts. On a lighter note you do get a free knitting machine with this model lathe, it has nine patterns to choose from. When I get it fixed I will sort a beanie hat for the long hours of lapping and scraping ahead of me. |
19/11/2017 18:53:36 |
Thanks for all the replies and XD 351 for the epoxy idea, I think that is something I will look at doing. I have had the lathe about a month but due to being busy never had chance to really use it properly just got it on the bench and set up. Once I noticed the chatter I immediately presumed it was due to compound/saddle lack of rigidity so any spare time I had I made the mods to fix that on my old lathe and mill. I am just glad I never sold my old lathe. If it is fixable I would rather just do that and know its done and dusted. At the end of the day if i go through all the hassle of returning it for all I know the next one might have other issues and I will be back in same boat with a load of time wasted. It was a nightmare to get in my garage due to it being at bottom of a rough heavily sloped drive and then onto the bench, dont really wont to be bothered with all that again. Anyway I have learned a lesson I should have found the time to travel to various dealers and seen what they had to offer but something like this doesnt show up on general inspection. At first I thought that maybe this was the best performance this type of lathe could offer but after watching others with similar type of machines on Youtube I realised there must be something wrong with mine. |
19/11/2017 16:04:39 |
Purchased a Chester DB10 10x22 lathe a few weeks ago and not had much time to play with it. What time I have spent on the machine has been problematic. There are a few problems the major one being bad chatter when facing and very bad when grooving/parting. After reading up on these type of Chinese machines I made a few mods to try to improve the situation,I made a solid 4 bolt compound clamp to strengthen the machine in that area and also a rear parting tool holder. These mods didnt help at all. The machine couldnt face more than about 0.25mm and parting was totally impossible. I ended up tightening the spindle bearings a little and it will face about 0.5mm now but parting still no hope. I did some tests yesterday to look for spindle deflection and after much messing about I discovered the spindle was ok but the headstock is deflecting. If I put pressure on chuck or spindle I am getting about 0.04mm in both directions so adding that together its coming on for a tenth. I stripped it all down and took some pictures and am hoping someone can give me a some advice on how to proceed. So I dont think there is any chance of this head stock bolting down to the bed in a solid fashion. This must be where my chatter problem is coming from but how am I going to fix it?? I could really use some advice here. I was thinking perhaps I could fly cut and the then shim the larger surface to correct it (thats if I can get it to fit in my small mill) but I have not got a clue what to do with the V section. Should I just leave that? It is quite rough but probably has a better contact area the other worse side. |
Thread: Chinese lathe cross slide graduated collar info needed. |
09/11/2017 21:08:05 |
Thanks for the info Mick, perhaps the more recent models of these machines are all graduated like that. Yes it is the cross slide I am talking about. I prefer the diameter setup but thats probably because I am used to it from my other lathe which I will be selling when I get the new one to my liking. I was looking on ebay and some of the Chinese sites like banggood and couldn`t find anything of use. Making one would be an option but engraving or getting the markings on it would be a problem for me. |
09/11/2017 18:34:39 |
I want a graduated collar to go onto my newly purchased Chester DB10. The one fitted goes in 0.04 increments (lead screw is 2mm pitch). My other machines have 0.05 graduations so it would really keep things simple for me if I could get hold of one. I know the Warco WM250 and other models are basically the same machine so a collar form them would work. Only prob is I am worried if I ring them and ask they will want to know which Warco lathe I have and obviously I don`t have one. Perhaps they will not be helpful with me because of that? Or if someone on here has Chinese lathe with 2mm lead screw and 0.05 collar perhaps they could share the model and year of it.I could download manual and look part up and ring them with part number.? I have emailed Chester but am awaiting reply but presume this is going to be standard spec and they might not be willing to supply me with what I want. any help or advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Ady. |
Thread: Found these behind RPM readout plate on lathe? |
08/11/2017 23:56:40 |
I got a Chester DB10 lathe delivered a couple of weeks ago. I havent really used it much as I have found myself making some improvements to it instead which I will post about in the near future. Anyway even though it has only been run a few times I noticed the digital RPM readout was not working correctly,sometimes it would come on and other times not and on occasion would decide to come on after a while?? So I thought I would have a look behind the late to check for faulty connections or anything obvious. This is what I found
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Thread: Couple of lathe spec questions |
18/10/2017 09:13:59 |
Yeah will do a review in the near future when have had chance to have a play with it. Machine is being delivered on friday so am having day off work. Hopefully it will come in morning which will give me chance to try and get it mounted to the bench. Should get a few hours on it over the weekend. |
16/10/2017 15:41:39 |
Thanks for the replies guys much appreciated. Have just ordered the open gearbox version now. |
16/10/2017 10:29:58 |
1. The option at Chester is for an open or closed gear box, truth is I don`t know what the difference is can somebody help me out here? On the clarkecl500m you need to manually install the change gears to cut a desired thread. This wouldnt be so bad but it messes up the auto feed rate so after cutting the thread you need to change them back again if you want to do some normal turning using auto feed. (big pain in the ass). What effect on screw cutting procedure does the open or closed gearbox make? 2. The lathe can be purchased in two flavours one is Belt driven (only shows this version on ebay chester tools shop) and the other is variable speed motor. I have a mill with a variable speed motor which the rpm readout died on it not long after purchasing it. It still runs fine and I am ok setting the speed by feel so to speak but electronics always worry me with the extra problems that can come with them. Would I lose any features by buying the Belt drive version ? (I dont mind having to change the belts I do that now on the clarke) any help appreciated, Ady. |
Thread: Clarke CL430 Lathe |
02/09/2016 09:22:07 |
I have the CL500M which is the same machine with but with the mill/drill head as an extra. The lathe is great I think you will be very hapy with it when you get used to what it can do and get a feel for it. Mine is very accurate, turn the dial and it will take off what you asked of it. Instead of using the three bolts to fix the chuck on fit three studs into the holes on the back of the chuck. The chuck then easily locates in position and it is much easier spinning the nuts on than fiddling with the bolts. Will really speed things up for you. As already mentioned it is a good idea to mount the chuck then put something true in it like a end mill, use a indicator to check for run out and write the amount down. Then true the chuck so the holes line up with the next hole and tighten up and again with the end mill in place record the run out. Do this for the three possible positions and whichever one gave you the least runout is the way you want to mount it every time. So just put a mark on the backplate and the chuck so you can line it up correctly every time. I just used a punch to mark mine lighlty. Another thing that will get you down is changing the belts for different speeds as it is fiddly and time consuming. There is a tensioner which requires you tighten and loosen a nut to get the desired tension, real pain in the ass. A good little project is to simply replace the threaded stud with a another rod. This rod you just copy the dimensions of the stud but drill a series of holes down its length as close together as possible. All you need to do then is put a drill bit or small rod through one of the holes to set the tension. When you want to change the belt setting simply pull out the drill bit/rod and the motor will pivot free allowing you an easy and quick change. Ady. |
Thread: Cutter size too big for collet work around |
13/05/2016 18:30:28 |
Just an update I managed to turn the shank down to 20mm so I can get it in my collet chuck now. Used it and it worked out great. I wont be forgetting the tips given me though as I am sure they will come in handy in the future. |
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