Member postings for GarryC

Not much done today, just the second Drain Cock (It needs bit of deburring by the looks of it). Its not quite tightening in the right position at the moment - so I hope maybe a bit of 'PTFE tape on the thread will allow me to align it when it comes to final assembly.

The Cylinder lagging should hopefully pretty much align with the depth of the shoulders, so they are a sitting a bit 'proud' at the moment....

Next is to have a go at milling in some little grooves in the bore - from the drain holes to the ends of the cylinder..

Cheers

Garry

Hi Nick

Great to see you've made a start, I'm quite envious of that nice Lathe you have..! Also interested to see what to me anyway looks like a 'button' profiling tool in the milling cutter - I've not seen anything like that before. Looks like it does a nice job..

and look forward to seeing the next update..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 21/08/2015 12:22:18

Hi Clive

Thats good for morale that is, cheers..! As Jason says I'm really not too bad at the cleaning bit.. To be honest the equipment is really only used for my ME and so I don't usually make much mess, its quick and easy to clean up.. I tend to wash down with WD40 before oiling when things get dirty - I know lots of people seem to hate it these days but I've used it on my cars and bikes for more years than I care to remember....

and Thanks Jason, its good to know the notches are fine, I wasn't sure about them..

Cheers

Garry

Cheers Jeff

Tapping the Drain Cock Hole..

One Drain Cock fitted - one to go..

Cheers

Garry

and while the kettle's boiling..

The other end of the Cylinder and that steam inlet opened out to the end of the wall.

then lining up to drill for the Drain Cocks.. That (wedge) clamp on the Cylinder wall is only very lightly tightened..

almost ready to start drilling and tapping..

Cheers

Garry

Just a quick couple of photo's of making a start this morning on aiding the steam to reach the end of the Cylinder..

Starting using a 4mm slot drill.. I didn't make all the cuts that fine, I think I went down 0.5 mm at a time..

One side done, but I may have been a bit heavy handed and taken away too much..

The other end after breakfast then having a go fitting the Drain Cocks and a 'groove' from their holes to the end of the cylinder - to aid water to get away from the ends of the cylinder.. At least I hope I'm understanding that correctly..

Cheers

Garry

Wow looks good Nick, look forward to following along...

Garry

Unbelievable - I clearly don't belong then..

Duncan, I assumed pdf was probably for ease of print / distribution to others or electronic access for the digital magazine, all obvious possibilities...and Neil did say he wanted them translated into pdf... so why such a negative response to folk who are only trying to help, I certainly didn't want to waste anyones time, least of all my own..

Edited By Garry_C on 17/08/2015 13:24:06

Hi Neil

I think If he saves in Collada format you can import into google sketch up (free) and then create a pdf from there...

Happy to have a go for you if you want to email - if I can do one I'll do the rest for you..

Cheers

Garry

Have the Cylinder Top Cover fixed in place this morning (the cylinder studs done the same way as the bottom one). I'm quite chuffed as all 6 holes in the cover were able to stay at 2BA clearance size 4.8mm, I must be getting better...

Last photo of the covers, promise..

Cheers

Garry

Hi Brian

Just in case it may be of use - I made one of these but I was holding 5/16" stainless for threading at the time - so maybe this is not suitable unless you can cut the small diameter needed for your job. I have used similar for smaller though - but not down to 2 - 3mm.. It's never left a mark on the work..

Cheers

Garry

Hi John

I couldn't do without mine and they are very easy to use..

There are more of the same missing here in the photo as there is something set up on the mill.. (The studs are different lengths)..

I think I paid about £50 for the set, may have been a bit more but not much...

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 15/08/2015 08:36:17

Edited By Garry_C on 15/08/2015 08:37:25

Thanks both, I like the magnet idea. I'll be having a look later to see how dirty the oil really is and I'll be using the 'Headstock and Gearbox' Oil from Warco..

Cheers

Garry

Hi Jason

Yes I'm using the co-ax indicator in the central socket of the table, I think its just a 'straight' central hole and not a MT (it was quite a cheap one) - but I understand what you are saying and will do - it may reveal a lot of course, I really should have thought to check that..! Thanks.

Cheers

Garry

Hi Clive

Thanks, a few good tips there, they do look obvious after reading your post and looking at the photo - but I must admit that I hadn't thought about them..!

I used to use the outside of the chuck for centering but saw a few negative comments about this, I would be interested to hear why the bottom of the chuck would be ok to use though - although in future I would continue to use the method above (but with a larger diameter bar etc) as its much easier and quicker..

Cheers Clive

Garry

Hi Alan

Big thanks for that - really useful as my 'sight glass' for that gearbox is completely black and so I can't see the Level - I can have a look tomorrow now...

Cheers

Garry

Hi Jason - that sounds like a good approach, it'l do for me then too! I'll get some from Warco..

Cheers

Garry

A couple of photos of setting up and drilling the Steam Cylinder Top Cover..

In checking how accurate I had set the Rotary Table up the dti was showing 5 thou out over one revolution of the table - I don't know how good or bad that is for my 'budget' equipment.... I know its not critical for the Cover Holes but its useful to know.. I can't seem to get the Rotary Table closer than 0.01mm each time with my Co Axial Indicator - I guess this will help to exaggerate the chuck run out as well.. (The chuck jaws were lightly centred around a bar in the Mill collet chuck after centring the table - ie. to centre the chuck on the table...)

[I'll have to try and do a better job with the Co Ax Indicator and that may help]

Anyway may be interesting to look back on for comparison..

Drilling and Spot Facing the Steam Cylinder Top Cover..

The Cover after drilling - I'm hoping it won't look too bad with the studs in as well - some of the nuts in the Stewart pack seem very poor quality with holes off centre. These are some of the better ones here in the photo..

I'll probably drill the Cylinder next for the Studs..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 14/08/2015 15:55:42

Edited By Garry_C on 14/08/2015 16:16:58