Member postings for GarryC

Next to do is the Valve Rod Gland.

The Valve Rod Gland Drawing.

The Glands for the No.1 should be a bit less work than having to cut individually from an oval bar as was supplied with Victoria - but the No'1's are much bigger..)

The Valve Rod Gland casting - Gun Metal.

Cheers

Garry

A couple more photos of finishing fitting the Steam Chest Studs..

All 8 4BA Studs fitted.

Test fitting the Steam Chest. Just one of the holes had to be opened out from 4BA Clearance Size to 3.8mm - something happened when I had to stop on that particular hole to extend the drill bit, bit of a mystery to me, the Steam Chest Cover was ok and all holes at 3.7mm..

Test fitting the Steam Chest Cover.

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 09/09/2015 14:32:10

Not really an update, just some photos I wanted to keep in the file from this morning..

A couple more studs in..

and checking the Valve Gland boss is still square with the Cylinder Bottom now there is more than one stud in place..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 08/09/2015 13:55:49

Just a quick couple of photo's of this mornings progress in starting to fit the Steam Chest studs..

Setting up to spot through the 1st of the holes - the chest was removed before drilling..

The first of the 8 4BA studs in..

Progress so far..

Cheers

Garry

Thanks Jeff - I've just been drilling the Cover and took your advice about widening the measurement between the two stud holes close to the valve gland..

Also as I came up a bit short in the Steam Cylinder port face lengthways dimension the 2" ctrs between the stud holes were a bit close to the Cover edge so I've shortened by 1/16".. The dimension between the two holes on the shorter edges were also increased by 1/16" to be safe with the closeness of the Valve Gland..

Rather than risk marking out the holes and spoiling the Cover face I used an edge finder and just had to locate two of the holes - using the Mill to find the others..

The Steam Chest Cover with holes to 4BA tapping size for spotting through to the Steam Chest and then onto the Steam Cylinder, opening out to clearance size later.. (The cover will need polishing up come final assembly..)

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 06/09/2015 13:14:13

Edited By Garry_C on 06/09/2015 13:14:48

Hi Peter

Coming along very nicely..!

Cheers

Garry

Haven't been able to make any progress for a few days, but I've made a start on the Steam Chest cover today..

The outside edges of the cover seemed pretty square as cast but not very true to the the inner 'S' rectangle..

Showing the out of square inner rectangle - so I tried to tidy around and square it to the outside edges with a small slot mill..

Then side milling to avoid the long overhang that I would have if holding lengthways vertically in the vice jaws..

Test fitting the Cover over the Steam Chest.

Then my best result to date flycutting - I ground a 'left hand' lathe type tool - no measured angles I just went and did it by eye to see what would happen..

Next is to machine the bottom surface and then marking out and drilling the holes - I'll give it a good clean up after when they are done.. I'll probably end up painting the cover as I've marked it a bit..

Cheers

Garry

Hi Nick

I found that a lot of heat is generated very quickly with gunmetal and it helped to try and keep things as cool as possible as the snatching seemed to 'especially want' to happen when hot, I took my time and let things cool between each drill bit - still managed to burn my finger last time though as I remember. It was something Jason said to watch out for at the time - as usual it was very good advice..

Hope it goes well..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 01/09/2015 17:18:44

Hi Bruce

Thanks very much, I found that very interesting, particularly your method of working around the inside of the Steam Chest on the Mill.. I have some thin flat steel plate that I should cut some packing strips from - which would have been a much better job as you say in the Lathe chuck. I've yet to try anything with double sided tape so I'll have to do some experimenting with that, I hadn't thought of using tape to help with things slipping during setting up, it does sound like a very useful idea..

My Mill vice although I think excellent, does have quite shallow jaws - hence the deep parallels with the Steam Chest vertically lengthways, I was able to use thinner ones in the horizontal position to get as much of the jaws in contact as possible....

Thanks again.

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 30/08/2015 17:47:20

I've done some more with the Steam Chest today. Its taken a while as there is a lot of checking that everything is square every time it needs to be moved for a new setup - and you can perhaps see from the photos above (last post) that the 'valve Boss'  as cast is well off centre, making things a bit more awkward - so things look a bit off below until I can hopefully tidy around the bosses and glands when they are done - with a file..

Starting to machine the Valve Boss end with the 'inside centre' of the steam chest running true.

The 'Valve Boss' now looking a bit more central, but its going to take some careful filing later to get it looking right.

I'm thinking I'll try and clamp a piece of tool steel across the ends to help with some of the filing when the time comes.. The outside edges of the Steam Chest are being machined to the size of the Steam Cylinder Port face and so I'm getting left with little steps to remove later - I dare say it's not helping because I've taken too much from the Steam Cylinder Port Face when I did that earlier..

The 3/16" hole for the 'Valve Rod' was drilled and reamed first..

and then opened out with a drill bit and bored to size. The face edge is a bit rough but that will be filed away, (I though I'd better not take any more off the face to get rid of it that way as the boss would be getting too thin..)

Next the Steam Inlet boss was then lightly tidied up square on the mill so that it could be marked and a square used on the Lathe to help with checking the setup..

and then the Steam Inlet marked - again on a centre line of the inside of the Steam Chest. This Boss seemed pretty central as cast - unlike the Valve Boss.

The Steam Chest so far - ready now to do the Steam Chest Cover so that the fixing holes can be spotted through to the Steam Chest and then on to the steam Cylinder..

Its far from perfect but should hopefully be ok..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 30/08/2015 13:56:51

Edited By Garry_C on 30/08/2015 13:59:13

Hi Peter

Great to see you've made a start - it's going to be a great project to follow

I bought an 'extended nose' type live centre and found it gave much more room...

Look forward to the next update..

Cheers

Garry

Thanks Peter, looking forward to seeing your new build here soon..

These are just a couple of photos of getting ready for todays session in starting to machine the Steam Chest to size.

I'm sure there are much better / more accurate ways of doing this but I'm hoping what I'm doing below will get the outside edges of the Steam Chest Cover, Steam Chest and Cylinder Port face reasonably lined up when they are assembled..

Marking out from the inside of the Steam Chest the outside dimensions to fit the Steam Cylinder.

This is a bit of an ugly photo but it shows how much needs to be removed from the Steam Chest outside edges - the dimensions used are from the actual Steam Cylinder Port face not the drawing..

and now ready to start milling down to size on the two 'blank' edges first - may need to do the other sides on the lathe, but whichever - I need to do the valve gland face and drill and ream through it in the same setting.. and the two holes right next to the gland I will move out slightly as they look a bit close (and the other two the opposite end to keep things symmetrical) - Thanks Jeff!

Cheers

Garry

Hey Nick, I can't think of many better ways of getting to the pub than that.

Garry

Just a little update to start work on the Steam Chest and Cover..

The Steam Chest Drawing.

The Steam Chest Cover Drawing.

The Steam Chest & Cover castings.

Starting to face both sides to the 3/4" thickness.. You can better see here I think the sides of the centre of the casting are quite 'bowed' and rough..

Sorry this one is a bit blurry - I wasn't quite sure what to about the inside, I seem to remember from Victoria that it was important not to take away too much material to clean and square it up..

This photo showing the setup used - 6mm End Mill as the cutter.

[also showing the Slide Valve casting - thats to come as I've not done anything with that yet.]

So I've really only just barely taken away the skin and not all of that - 0.05 cut around each length - but its nice and square now and I can always do more to it later if need be - although I was a little bit out in one corner. I only have 'stops' on one axis on my Mill - maybe that's normal I don't know. I went out I think from 'once' not locking the table when going 'down' to start a new cut around the rectangle - sorry thats not very well explained..

But I now have clean lines around the rectangle to be able to measure outwards from to mark the sides to size..

Cheers

Garry

Thanks Jason, I'll mount directly on the steam chest opposite side to the inlet then...

Cheers

Garry

I'm going to have a look at doing the Valve Chest next..

Could anyone please tell me if the Displacement Lubricator should be fitted off (or close to) the steam inlet pipe as per the photo below or as Andrew Smiths guide book suggests on the opposite side of the valve chest to the steam inlet (maybe it doesn't matter?).. I should say that I may not have a permanent connection to the boiler so would likely need to connect to it as and when I want to use it (so I can use the boiler for other engines) - and also can I still run the engine on air with the lubricator fitted?

Thanks for any advice and hope that makes sense - and apologies if its a silly question, I have a feeling I may have the wrong idea about how it works..

Garry

Thanks Steve

They are listed as 'recommended' extra options for the engine - I do intend to get a boiler when its finished and so I think they are pretty much essential to have **LINK** - its the largest size listed there to buy for this engine..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 22/08/2015 12:15:20

Edited By Garry_C on 22/08/2015 12:15:41

Hi George

I'm going to have to start training you lot to tidy up a bit now and then!

I did get the two grooves to the Drain Cock holes done earlier. They are 1/32" deep and will hopefully aid water in getting out when the piston is at the end of its stroke.. (The cylinder was lined up on the 'through' hole from above and then flipped through 90 degrees each time.....) Not much but its all progress..

Cheers

Garry

Hi and welcome Bob - I can second Graeme's post - the Warco WM25OV is a great Lathe..

Garry

Hi Ian

I've got one just for drinking cups of tea in as well..!

Hi Jason

So that's how its done - I'll get some washers, thanks..

I think thats dead clever in working out pretty accurately how much spot face or turn is needed to tighten a fixture in the right place... for some reason for me that's just shone a little light into the subject of threads generally..!

and yes I do need to get some studding - mine are a real pain to use. I'll have to find some..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Garry_C on 21/08/2015 14:43:39

Edited By Garry_C on 21/08/2015 14:44:03