Here is a list of all the postings GarryC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Stuart 'No.1' : a beginners tale.. |
21/05/2014 11:00:34 |
Thanks Neil, I've just been looking again and yes I think I'll get a 1/2" machine / chuck reamer, bound to come in useful in the future as well. The bar for the crankshaft should fit nicely (he says hoping!), but can maybe adjust a bit with the split bearings - I can use the boring bar to get the holes nicely lined up first. Thinking about it I can just grind through the tool steel to cut the tool and then back to length as well.. Cheers. Allan. |
21/05/2014 09:15:06 |
I've just checked and the bar supplied for the crankshaft measures 12.65mm - the drawings show the bearing bores to be 1/2inch and the drawings also show the crankshaft to be 1/2 inch. I was going to try to bore the bearings to fit the supplied bar - but first I wanted to ask another question, and that is what is the best way to cut tool steel? The little 1/8" diameter tool steel that I want to use in the boring bar is just laughing at my hacksaw blades... I have a new found respect for the hardness of it..! Also I've just looked at reamers (Tracey Tools) and the 1/2 M/C reamer (I assume thats a machine reamer) has a quoted size of 1/2" - 39/64" REAMER - Would anyone know what the 39/64" is referring to. I could email Tracey of course.. They also have 5/16" - 31/64" REAMER John, I can see it would be a good thing to be able to use the same reamer for everything along the crankshaft - maybe I could just use the boring bar to get them in line and undersize before reaming.. Thanks. Allan. Edited By Allan. on 21/05/2014 09:34:28 Edited By Allan. on 21/05/2014 09:35:21 |
20/05/2014 18:02:19 |
Great explanation Jason. Thanks. Its good to have an understanding and now something else to look out for on the real thing...! Cheers. Allan. Edited By Allan. on 20/05/2014 18:04:11 |
20/05/2014 16:35:28 |
Some more progress today - straightening the bore in the 'bad' bearing, desoldering and cleaning up both bearings and testing the boring bar size through both bearings in situ.. Straightening the hole in the 'bad' bearing - this went well using a 10mm slot mill, lots of cutting fluid and no problems this time.. The hole's still not quite right, very close now - but the boring bar should hopefully sort that out... Testing the boring bar size through both bearings in situ 1. Testing the boring bar size through both bearings in situ 2. Ready to go onto the Lathe now. Thinking about boring on the Lathe next and I'm afraid that I now realise that I'm unsure of the idea behind the split bearing. On Victoria the bearings were one piece and it was 'simply' a matter of boring the bearing to fit the crankshaft, or at least that's what I did. I'm assuming the idea of the split bearing is to allow the bearing to be 'adjusted / tightened down' for wear. Someone on here (this thread), sorry I must look back to see who it was, was recently explaining I think that the top bearing half is meant to tighten down on the bottom bearing half not on the bearing housing - which mine do so that's ok I hope. So I think I'm just unsure of - do I aim to make the crankshaft diameter slightly oversize to allow for such an adjustment and not slightly undersize as per the one piece bearing or should the bearing bore be exactly the same size as the crankshaft - I guess once the crankshaft goes undersize there can be no adjusting / tightening up, but that somehow does't sound quite right maybe? Hope that explains my lack of understanding.. I think I can remember someone saying when I was doing Victoria's 'one piece' bearings that they should be split afterwards - I can see that this would allow adjustment for undersize / wear adjustment as the metal removed when splitting would change the diameter allowing thus to do - hope someone can see why I'm unsure of what to aim at.... If anyone can explain I would be grateful.. At the end of the day I may not be able to work to the tolerances needed anyway but nevertheless it would be good to understand the concept, and especially for when using better equipment in the future... Regards Allan. |
19/05/2014 21:18:55 |
Roy and Jason Yes quite right it is HSS and about 3 inches long - from Tracey Tools. I didn't know there were different grades until Bob explained above, so I don't know how hard it will prove to be. I'll check the writing on it, maybe it will say which it is. The slightest touch on the smooth wheel of the Grinder was all that was needed - but then it is only 1/8 inch. I've not cut it to length yet.. Each 3 inch length was only £1 I think.. Cheers Allan. |
19/05/2014 20:34:24 |
Hi Nigel Thanks for such an interesting post and some useful general methodology there. Before deciding to make one I was thinking about getting the boring bar kit from Hemingway **LINK** - it has perhaps a similar method of accurately measuring the tool adjustment as you were describing. I'm hoping to get on ok with the one I have made now though - not having made any kind of tool before it will be very satisfying if it does a good job... Cheers. Allan. |
19/05/2014 13:10:16 |
Hi Gary Yes that sounds like a good idea, I'll give that a go next time, cheers - the combination of the small size and shiny steel was too much.. Hi Jason Thats really useful thanks, I'll keep all that in mind when doing it. I've been having some 'vague' thoughts about how best to adjust the tool - the method you mention sounds perfect to try.. In a strange way I'm glad now that I've had the problems with the bearings and took the 'time out' to do the boring bar as well - If not I would have missed out on what feels to be good experiences and learning in getting or at least trying to get them back on track - finding out about between ctrs boring and laying a bit of foundation for tool grinding to build on, issues with soldering together for drilling, problems and learning about working with Gunmetal, using slot mills for making holes etc.! To have missed out on all that would have been a big loss.. Can't wait to have a go with the bar, looks like Thurs will be good as I should have a complete free day to 'play'. Tomorrow I'm going to have a go at straightening out the hole in the 'bad' bearing to get to the same size as the other one (before desoldering both of them ready for the lathe) - I'll do that with a slot or maybe try an end mill this time - on the mill again (that reminds me I need to get some 6A fuses to go back in the mill).. I thought the 'wonky' hole was at 7.5mm but checking this morning its at 9.5mm. So I'll use a 10mm cutter, very slowly and carefully which should then allow the boring bar to fit through both bearings on the lathe... Cheers. Allan. |
18/05/2014 13:35:28 |
Great thanks a lot Jason. For a minute back there I think I was in danger of having the only Stuart No.1 with a 'screw in' crankshaft! I hear what you say so I'll be taking tiny cuts! Cheers. Allan.
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Thread: Building the James Coombes (with chips) |
18/05/2014 12:59:25 |
Hi Steve This is great to see, I'm going to be following every bit. Great timing for me as well as I'll learn lots and lots from this I'm sure and no doubt it will help cut down the mortality rates on my no. 1 parts! Just as I was thinking this site couldn't get any better! Now I just need to convert you into a chip free lifestyle..! All the best with it. Cheers. Allan. |
Thread: Stuart 'No.1' : a beginners tale.. |
18/05/2014 12:48:43 |
Hi Bob and John - I don't have an oilstone yet but am going to get one. Missed your 'radius' solution before going back to the workshop - but it was good to have another play on the grinder.. Jason, if you would take another look sometime I would be grateful. No probs if its not right and I need to try again.. Its photographing this one that is the real problem for me.. 3rd time lucky maybe? 3rd attempt at grinding the tool for the between cts boring bar 1 3rd attempt at grinding the tool for the between cts boring bar 2. 3rd attempt at grinding the tool for the between cts boring bar 3. 3rd attempt at grinding the tool for the between cts boring bar 4. Trying to show there is a slight top rake.. Regards Allan.
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18/05/2014 11:05:50 |
Great thanks again Jason - I'm glad you were about! Back to the grinder now for another go.... Cheers. Allan. |
18/05/2014 10:45:53 |
Thanks John I did break one a few weeks backs now and threw it out! Hadn't thought about doing any future grinding then but will keep them in future. Yes I can see its going to be a bit fiddly adjusting the cuts but I imagine something that gets easier the more you times you do it - hope so anyway! Just had another go at grinding again trying to get close to Jason's drawings. Its been much harder trying to get a couple of decent photo's than it was to do the grinding - and i've failed miserably, the iPhone just not focussing down that close.. Anyways here is a couple of the photos that I'm hoping will show if its useable or not. I did two but they are pretty much exactly the same. Here is one of them.. 2nd attempt at grinding the tool for the between ctrs boring bar 1. 2nd attempt at grinding the tool for the between ctrs boring bar 2. 2nd attempt at grinding the tool for the between ctrs boring bar 3. Regards Allan.
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17/05/2014 18:24:42 |
Jason A big thanks for these, the diagrams are excellent and make it very clear what needs to be done. I can see the one I did needs more work. I'll carry on with that and do another from scratch as per these diagrams as well. Hope this hasn't taken you too long to do - I'll bet though that lots of others like me will learn a lot from this.. and I must say it's definitely easier to understand a little better after having a go... I'll post up my next efforts... Allan and Bob Thanks, some more useful info there - and I will take a look on Youtube.. Regards. Allan. ps. Its obvious to see the enormous amount of help I've been getting on here but what isn't obvious is how much 'off forum' help has been offered as well, the enthusiasm from others has been incredible - just totally brilliant..! Anyone starting out and thinking of joining here - don't think twice do it now!
Edited By Allan. on 17/05/2014 18:28:01 |
17/05/2014 11:15:50 |
Thanks Bob, yes both your link and Gary's yesterday are helpful. Maybe Gary's a bit more so at the moment as its nicely coloured to show the different angles. It was quite enjoyable using the grinder earlier, albeit for just a few seconds, I'll definitely be giving some HSS lathe tools a go now..... Will remember what you said and watch the heat.... Thanks again, and Gary as well for yesterday.. Cheers. Allan.
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17/05/2014 10:04:28 |
Great thanks Jason that would be great - but whenever to suit yourself of course. Doesn't need to be today... Cheers. Allan. |
17/05/2014 09:23:14 |
I was hoping someone may take a quick look at these (rather poor again I'm afraid) photo's please - apologies my iPhone having trouble focussing in on the small size.. Am I very far off from this being suitable for the between ctrs boring of my gunmetal bearings? I would guess this taken less than 60 secs to do so not expecting it to be correct. If anyone can give me any pointers I would be very grateful. Tool steel diameter is 1/8". Many thanks. First attempt at tool grinding for the between Centres Boring Bar 1. First attempt at tool grinding for the between Centres Boring Bar 2. First attempt at tool grinding for the between Centres Boring Bar 3. Regards. Allan.
Edited By Allan. on 17/05/2014 09:35:21 |
16/05/2014 20:43:32 |
Hi Bri. Jason gave a good description a few posts back (this thread), I haven't tried it yet myself but I understand it to be a matter of pulling / pushing the tool out manually and measuring. When looking to buy one I found they were very pricey and (the ones I found) had a 'micrometer' type device included that fitted onto to the tool for these adjustments.. I see no problem with doing it 'manually' though, especially as it's cost nothing really to make and it may get me into starting with tool grinding.. Hi Bob Thanks, that is such a useful post! As I said I did some reading on this - but only about different types of grinding wheels... Hi Gary That does sound very positive and really interested to hear of your experiences with better finishes. I've tried to read up a bit about tool angles / shapes etc a few times now but have to admit its not 'going in' yet... I'll get there though.. Cheers. Allan. |
16/05/2014 18:48:00 |
Hi Bob Thanks for the advice, you've encouraged me to do a bit of reading up on this which was again useful. I've been thinking to try some HSS Lathe tools to see if I get a better finish than the replaceable tip tools I'm using now, so I'm sure I'll soon find it useful - and now I'll know to get the 'Green Grit' if the fitted wheel(s) prove not suitable or wear out quickly.. Looking forward to having a go with it.. Cheers Allan. |
16/05/2014 11:00:09 |
Thought I would quickly put up a photo of my new Grinder - its tiny! I was going to use it in my workmate but think I'll likely use it in the vice, seems to run nice and smooth - the little bolts I used for fixing clamp down the rubber cups that were fitted under the base (included) so no vibration at all . Don't know how much I will use it yet and it would only be for small things I'm sure. Great for £20 incl del. - and the tool steel's arrived and fits my boring bar perfectly.. Wont be fitting the 'eye' guards as I would never use without full face safety wear... 1/8" Tool Steel fits perfectly in the boring bar 3.2mm hole.. May not get the chance to try grinding the tool until tomorrow though.. Regards Allan. |
15/05/2014 15:11:00 |
Thanks Jason, that sounds good - I'll have a look for them. When the Grinder arrives I'll post a pic of my sharpening efforts on the tool steel. The photo's you posted of your boring bars are good and clear for me to try and copy the cutting edge... Cheers. Allan.. |
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