Here is a list of all the postings hawkeyefxr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Optical Chucks |
30/05/2020 16:34:18 |
Thanks for those quick replies, I have seen the Wixey system **LINK**. is more in my price range. Alexander, the one you describe sounds very much like we had. The fella in charge of me at the time said it cost a lot of money. As i earned around £10.00 per week makes £600 like a mountain lol. I make the occasional jig or fixture and getting accurate hole location hard when to take into account my eyes are not what they were, bending over lining things up and all the other things being worn out on me lol, and my drill is in the same condition lol.
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30/05/2020 14:57:34 |
In the mid 60s i was in my apprenticeship, about this time i was in the toolroom, it was like heaven, well it was to me. We had a drill setup with an optical chuck, basically you peered through and you saw crosshairs through the centre of the chuck to your workpiece where you had scribed a cross. You then used a centre drill and got you hole where you wanted it. Present day, i am looking for something like this now though i suspect the type i used will be laughed at now. I was wondering if there was a present day device, I am not working in thou's but would like to be. Is there something that can be clamped in the chuck jaws that maybe shines a crosshair onto the workpiece. I did find a post here from 2017 but that maybe redundant now. Was hoping to do away with the centre punch lol. |
Thread: Optical chucks |
30/01/2017 16:35:50 |
Nick
Whats a DRO system?
By fairly accurate i mean 2 to 4 thou max
I have looked at the links but they deal more with description. I realise time has moved on but i thought i would find some kind of lead.
I have a wood turning chuck, it's similar to an engineering one except where the jaws on an engineering chuck hold the work piece on a wood chuck there are different secondary jaw sets that bolt to the jaws that run on the scroll.
i want some jaws that fit my particular chuck that allow me to mount a piece of ply where by i can machine the ply to hold a bowl.
Basically a 5in dia x 1/2 flat disk, it's then cut into four quarter each with two holes in to locate to the chuck jaws.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=69101&cat=1,330,69091,69184&ap=1
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30/01/2017 13:52:52 |
Back in the dark ages (1964) i was into my apprenticeship, at this time i was in the toolroom. It was just a small toolroom with myself and 'arry'. Anyway we had a bench pillar drill that had an optical chuck, you viewed through an optic and could see down to your work piece and see you scratch lines from the vertical vernier. You line the cross hairs up and used a centre drill for quite accurate drilling. No a patch on todays CNC machining i know. My question is are these still made, are there IR deices that do the same. I have looked but cannot find anything even resembling what i am looking for. I don't even know if Optical chuck is the right name for them. I need to drill eight holes fairly accuratley, hoping someone can help me or maybe just tell me i am completley mad. Edited By hawkeyefxr on 30/01/2017 13:53:48 |
Thread: V12 german tank at model engineers Sandown Park |
18/12/2013 09:00:14 |
Does anyone know of contact details for this guy please. He was Australian and his tank was something else. Unfortunately it had a few timing issues on the Friday when I was there, i just wanted to get in touch with him to see if he found out what went wrong and if it was fixed. |
Thread: Drilling 316 stainless |
24/08/2013 16:55:51 |
Thanks for all suggestions they will all be looked into. I contacted the company that sold the TCT drill just saying they were worse than useless, they offered me replacment cobalt drills. so now waiting. Like i said in my original post i am using a jig, i have since added a hardened drill bush. That make swarf clearance not to good though. I am using a bench pillar drill not a hand held drill. Drill speed is lower that i would normall use for that size drill, i also use a steady continuous pressure releiving the drill every 30secs or so. Will wait for cobalt drills and see how it goes. |
23/08/2013 07:13:38 |
I am making a small batch job of 25 items, the material is 22mm dia 316 stainless. For 12 of these items i use a 3mm HSS drill to drill through the 22mm dia, the drill lasted well i thought. I have a small jig which my part go into which make the clearing of swarf not very good. After my 3mm drill gave up i decided to look for something more long lasting, i found some TCT tipped drills supposedly designed for stainless. I use two drill to go less that half way through my stainless rod. I now have bits of carbice in a blind hole. I have looked for 3mm diamond drills but they are pretty rare plus they need constant lubrication. Does anyone know of another type of drill i could use. I am using a pillar drill. |
Thread: Tipped tools |
24/07/2013 07:45:07 |
I harc from a bygone era of the 60's, then we (at least the company where is did my apprenticship) only had carbide tipped tools. There just coming out then i think as i was sent to an engineering exhibition as part of my training. Anyhow cut the waffle............i have recently bought a Myford ML7, it's a beauty, well i think it is. It's a 1957 model according to the serial number. I have also bought four carbide tipped tools, compared to HSS tools bits they are light years better. My question is there does not appear to be any front clearance. As you can turn them round and over this makes sense, normal turning is ok but cutting into the end face is not nice to feel. I hope this explains enough. |
Thread: Myford M7 Lathe |
21/05/2013 12:50:54 |
Hi
Tabks for the info much appriciated, the link was especially good. Many thanks |
19/05/2013 18:16:53 |
I have just become the proud owner of the above lathe,, while i have not done any machining for many years. I have worked in two places that had old myfords, the first when i was doing my apprenticship when i worked in the toll room. The second was in heay industry where we made furnces for melting steel, they weighed many many tons. Having said that they had this very old Myford lathe that was a gem, most of us jumped on it to do little jobs. My question is my one has a back gear but the book does no say how you engage it. If you lift the gear/belt cover you can see the back gear. The bigger gear has a small allen bolt, do i undo this and move it out to allow the drive train to pass through the four gears at the back of the chuck. I have look in the book but cant find out how use it though it does mention it. I know the back gear is used for screw cutting though i will not be doing this. I just want to know how to get it to work.
Cheers |
Thread: Drawing Projections |
17/05/2013 06:31:07 |
When i was doing my apprieticship in the 60's i had a spell in the drawing office, i was told one was the American view the other English view, Which was what i can't remeber now. |
Thread: Free Machining Stainless Steel |
15/05/2013 07:11:51 |
Year ago i came across free cutting stainless quite by accident. I was the machinist in a heavy industry factory. One of my smaller jobs was to make SS nuts out of 2in bar, they had a tapped hole in the moddie and were anout 3/8 thick. I used to part them off using a parting off tool. I decided to put the cross feed on auto one day and it worked perefectly. I only got one cut out of the tool and had to touch it up with a stone after every cut but it worked. The finish was like chrome, there was no juddering or tool bits snapping. |
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