Member postings for Chris123

Delrin is a trade name of DuPont. I used it years ago, it can give off some nasty fumes that can cause you to go dizzy and lose balance. Don't ask me how I know!

I do a lot of anodising.

Lots of pictures on the images page. 

www.intrincycle.co.uk

I tend to do all the anodising on a certain day so it can take up to 2 weeks.

Small orders are fine, most places are only interested if you are spending £50+

Edited By Chris123 on 19/09/2013 18:18:42

As above, plus try adjusting bolt tightness on the best position.

I made some clamps as per the link in the end and they work very well, even on a lathe at 2000rpm

As I use aluminium the grub screws dig into the alumium a bit to hold stop it coming off the lathe. As I origionaly made it for the mill the holes are in the wrong place for the lathe faceplate. I will make some more better suited to the lathe and use all four to ensure the work doesn't fly off the lathe!

I got the sides of this aluminium plate with 0.02 of being parralel with these clamps, they work very well!

Edited By Chris123 on 26/08/2013 19:24:27

Yes!

That might just be enough!

Thanks.

Yes, they would probably work thanks!

The flats are going to be 6mm high when finished, so if I use some 6mm steel for those clamps and use M4 grubscrews, then taper the edge of the clamp nearest the work it should be ok!

Both links are the same BTW, what should the other one be?

Hi, it's the width of the pice that's too wide, my milling vice won't open enough to hold the work, although that idea would work with a drill vice I guess!

it can't easily be clamped as the entire top need to be faced, I think I'd have to move the clamps halfway through.

I have to face some aluminium flats that are too wide for my milling vice.

I'm wondering if I can use a drill press vice.

What is the flatness of these like? If I put something in the drill vice on the milling table is it going to be reasonably level? Or will the drill vice need facing on the mill to be level enough to use?

Thanks,

Edited By Chris123 on 18/08/2013 17:35:30

Thanks for all the advice. I tried a piece of HSS with a radius on the end. I pretty much got a polished finish first time. The picture is below, it's HE30 / 6082 T6.  1000rpm, 50mm diameter cut, table speed between 12-252mm/minute (didn't really make much difference). 

I tried various different methods, even with the head tilted 0.5 degree so that it only cut once, I'm not 100% but I think when the leading side of the fly cutter was cutting it was a better finish and with the trailing side cutting it was a much worse finish.

Using a traditional shape lathe tool gave a nice machined finish, similar to a computer disc.

However I think the best advice I read was to use the lathe instead!

I found a face cutter at a car boot sale this morning for £5 so will probably use that in future!

Thanks,

Edited By Chris123 on 18/08/2013 12:56:19

Edited By Chris123 on 18/08/2013 13:04:32

Edited By Chris123 on 18/08/2013 13:17:50

Thanks for your replys!

i will have a look at the links later.

I think I have an old LH lathe tool in an old size so I'll try that first tonight.

Thanks.

Hi, does anyone use a fly cutter to face aluminium?

What shape should I make to the HSS tool bit?

Any other advice?!

Thanks,

Edited By Chris123 on 15/08/2013 18:25:44

Starting outside diameter is 30mm, being reduced to 25mm, internal diameter is 19mm. So Jason had a very good guess! Length is 25cm.

Looks like the model shops don't sell a dog big enough, so I will drill thro the tube and use a bolt through the tube at 90 degrees, to connect to the face plate.

I use a Deburring tool to make it less of a square edge. I've tried quite a high pressure but it's the same.

The measure meets have been checked both on machine and off machine.

Good point about the dog, I'll have to try that!

Thanks for the reply, it's aluminium HE30 I'm using, taking light cuts <0.25 while trying to get it right!

Wall thickness is 3mm or so.

Struggling to get consistent results when turning 25cm tubes on a lathe.

Im using a fixed headstock 90 degree centre and rotating tailstock 90 degree centre. I can get it lined up and make a paswithin the end to end difference in diameter less than 0.01mm, however on the next pass it will be upto 0.1mm difference between ends. I use constant flow of water soluble oil and the part doesn't get noticeable hot, so I don't think its expansion causing it.

Lathe is a Harrison 12x24"

Thanks.

On short workpieces I use the pointed rear of the carbide insert to face.

Obviously if you need to use the tailstock you can't do it.

Just interested in how people clean their hands when given the five minute countdown for dinner?

I use Swarfega barrier cream then Swarfega (the orange one with bits in) soap.

Sorry, that is the size of the holder! The blade is about 5mm accross.

Althogh the lathe has a 3hp main motor and a 0.75hp(?) motor for the hydraulics!

Thanks for that, I had better success today!

Thanks.

I'm pretty sure it's at 90 degrees.

I have ground the tip to an angle though, so that there's no burr left on the part.

I will have to experiment with a lesser angle and see what happens. 

Edited By Chris Pocock on 13/06/2013 20:54:48