Member postings for KEITH BEAUMONT

Old School,

Interesting that you have one that has not been fired up. If I remember correctly, mine appeared to have been nickel plated on the tail pipe, but it soon burned of when it got red hot.

Keith

Ramon,

I was an apprentice Patternmaker at Drummond Bros. They were a very forward looking company and had started a group bonus scheme that everyone got a share of just prior to the annual holiday in July. My bonus was £10.00. The Juggernaut was £6 10 shillings,so I splashed out. My father did not approve. He thought I should spend it buying the tools I needed.

Keith

All these mentions of control line flying is making me nostalgic, especially the pulse jet model The two photos are of my British Juggernaut Pulse jet model of the V 1 Doodlebug. This was 1948, so such things were still very much in our memory. It flew on 100ft long flnes of Bowden cable, that I still have someware. Crudely timed at 90-100mph. Take off was on a dolly that dropped off when airborne, Sparks were from a Ford Model T trembler coil ,that I discovered in a local scrap yard, Hand pump air to start it was useless,so we obtained a large inner tube from a lorry, pumped that up and connected that to the fuel spray. We eventually got banned from all the local recreation grounds ,due to the noise, so I swapped it for an Olson 23 sparkie that I converted to using home made glow plugs. Four of us clubbed together to buy a yard of platinum wire and cut it into 4 pieces. Using a spark plug that unscrewed, we put a small slit in the central electrode and another on the plug rim. About 4 coils around a piece of piano wire then peen the ends into the slit. They worked very well. It really was a true Do It Yourself time, One of these days I will insert pictures correctly!!

Is the answer in the word "lift". The lever should be pushed down to engage the leadscrew.

Keith

Mine arrived today and I was pleased to see that an article I submitted some time ago-Installing a Magnetic DRO System to a Mini-Lathe, has been printed in it. In my explanation of why I had used components from EMS-I and M-DRO, I have stated that the EMS-I reader head is about 25% smaller than the M-DRO reader head, therefore making it suitable to fit on the Cross slide. This was correct at time of writing, but It is worth mentioning to anyone interested,that, in the same issue, M-DRO are advertising their Reader Heads and they now have one listed as EHM Series Mini Head, which is the same size as that I used from EMS-I

Keith.

That is one superb piece of work Tug. Love the close ups on the video. You can think you are watching a full size engine..

Keith

Hi Keith, That is disapointing that you have not got it running to your satisfaction. I made many modifications to the one I made, but used the original timing and carb dimentions. Because I altered it to a beam mount and put the carb at the rear,I added another exhaust port. It starts easily and runs smoothly. Recently have made a beam mount Holly Buddy.. Let us know if you have another session with your Boll-Aearo.

Keith

Hi Graham, Did you ever get this engine to work OK.

Keith

I searched for "Aldi portable metal cutting band saw" and two are shown. The Ferrex, no price stated. No longer available. Scroll down and the Scheppach item is shown at £129.99

Keith

The Aldi SCHEPPACH model is currently £129.99 on their website.Same item on Amazon is £199.99. It is the Ferrex item that is discontinued.

Keith

Thanks Ramon for you comments The engine is quite noisy with a real crackle to the engine note,which is always music to my ears. I take the easy way out with anodising and have it done with a "sympathetic" local firm..

I have sent you a message in your box.

Keith

Thank you Jeff. It is always good to hear from across the pond.

Keith

Thanks Rod, Always good to hear from you.

Keith

This is my latest engine recently completed. The design is by Aussie Ed Holly, who has made his drawings for it freely available. As drawn, it is a boxy, all bar-stock design. Eds intension being to encourage people to have a go at making an I/C engine. In his notes with the drawings he suggests that makers might like to alter things to make the engine unique to them and I have done just that..

The Crankcase as drawn has a radial mounting, This has been changed to a beam mount I have lengthened the crankshaft to allow a spinner in place of the plain nut. Added a bronze bearing to the front housing that also has a single ball race. Also changed to a split collet for the prop driver in place of the fixed taper.. The Fins and Cylinder were held down by four long screws,but I have put a thread on the Cylinder to allow the fins to be screwed down. Cylinder height was increased by 0.375"as the Contra piston,as drawn is too shallow for the method I use to make them. I put about 0.005" taper to the outside,with a thin wall of about 0.020",.Diameter is then turned with a good finish to allow it to enter the cylinder for half its length. This will then push into the cylinder giving a gas tight fit with the Screw fitting.For the last three engines I have made this from EN1A,rather than C/.I . I smear copper loaded grease on it on assembly to avoid any chance of seize. Cosmetically I have tried to soften the appearance. The Fins , Prop Driver and Spinner are anodised and the crankcase has been bead blasted to give an overall smooth mat finish. To add to the "bling" I added blue S/S mush head screws.

It has proved to be an easy starter and to date it has had five runs of about two minutes each, running rich ,with a 10"x 4" nylon prop, RPM at this stage is around the 8000 mark. I have several props of other size to use on later runs.

Putting potos on here is a nightmare! Why do they end up in the reverse order that I click on them? I would expect to start at the top of the list, not the bottom.

Keith

I have closely examined both of the M42 saws supplied with my machine and there is no detectable sign of a join in either of them. The one in the saw runs very smoothly with no sign of a bump during rotation..

Keith.

I would be interested to know which way the teeth are facing on saws puchased from third part suppliers for this saw. I know a band saw can be turned inside out for thinner wood saw blades and it often happens when I twist one into the three ring coil for storage, but I woud think that twisting this very stiff blade would be difficult and end up with a few kinks in it.

Thinking about how these vices grip a round bar only on two unmeasureable lines, I have been experimenting with two hardwoodj jaw pads with a vee machined in each face. This increases the contact faces to four and gives a very firm grip. A bonus using these is that it has reduced the noise of cutting by breaking the metal to metal contact.

Keith.

I also found it curious that the cutting forces are loading the movable jaw and not the front fixed one. Do all metal bandsaws run this way.? When purchasing alternative blades,the direction of the teeth is not specified, so I assume they all do.

Keith

I have just telephoned Kirk and he is OK and busy. He says he will reply to your e mail pronto.

Keith

I have had a search of my copy of the instructionsand the only reference to a vee- belt is where they list items that wear out. The exploded view does not help either as there is no list of parts to the numbered items. I cannot see anything that looks like a vee-belt, which must be positioned at one of the ends of the motor I would think.

You are clearly unlucky with your purchase of band saws, but it looks like this one has to be returned too.

Keith