Member postings for clogs

I was offered some Square die nuts the other day....most were BSF n Whit.....

no use to me other than for display.....no idea how old they were.....

would have bought them just for show but the guy thought they were made of GOLD considering the price.....lol...

I have a few old tools that are just for looking at.....

Oily Rag

thanks for that info/thread on the F1 engine....most illuminating.....

Beware

using a METAL carbide circ saw blade in a wood chop saw will not go well...the wood machine is to fast (RPM)...

If u end up with a metal cutting bandsaw u'd do well to buy a new TUFFSAW blade....

I only use cobalt blades now but even their HSS blades are great....

U can buy a Tuffsaw m42 or 46 blade (better qual Hss) for the same money as a machine mart /ebay Hss blade.....which are c@rp....

A good blade will do wonders for even a cheapie saw....

I bought a new 12" Sip metal bandsaw some 14 years ago still is accurate and so much cheaper to use than an abrasive cut-off saw....

wouldnt waste my money on a Rapidor style saw now....they are really expensive used if u can find one...

and soooooo slooooow......

In the early days I was thinking of buying a new lathe and mill.......

I heard of Warco and their Chinese stuff.......I contacted them and wern't very helpful...!!!!!!

just glad I didn't go that route.....

was offered a nearly new WM mill by a local widow......she sold the house with the ready made worshop....

Another LUCKY ESCAPE.....

In the end, I bought an as new Myford 7 (with screw/c g/box) and a Myford VMF mill both with shipping wax still on....

Plus a one owner Colchester Student square top and a full size Bridgeport J head mill.....

now very happy.....

the best thing to do is to take early retirement take ur tools/machines and go live in the sun.....

leave that wet cold and downtroden place to those at the top and then find out who's gonna pay for these mad hatter schemes......

I say remove the VAT on anything like solar heating and other improvement and leave the Gas boilers alone......

The way I heard it from a borehole engineer, u need to be down at least 300m to make any real difference to heating and more if u can......

what HP poump will u need to get the hot water back up to the house from that kinda depth....?

then as all land under ur house is owned by Queeny will there be extra tax to pay her.....?

spose she needs the extra to support all those hangers on.....

the like's of Boris and I'm a supporter should be told to go stuff his self and all his mates who will make a fortune from the lowley masses.....

the Uk can make a start but China and co needs to also help....

the Geotherm idea was hatched up in the pub after 10 pints of foaming brain neutralizer.....

Chris Mate.....

long story but as I'm nearly out of the suds oil... (25 ltr of Q8)

I'll be using Hydraulic oil.....not only the cost but better for the machine...

I have an early 70's Bridgeport and an as new Myford...hell just forgotten the letters....old age....

it's one of the last they sold.....made in Taiwan.....

the Myford still has shipping wax on it....

anyway only oil has ever been used on it.....(it does have a full suds pump system)

all the other lathes will get oil as well, only the the 12" metal cutting band saw will have the oil/water suds.....as it's messy anyway.....

I'm told that there is a non diloutable suds out there but have not checked this out....yet...

The new workshop floor will have a 2 pack resin sealer /paint so that I can mop it....

I like a clean floor....but will be looking at better screening for the machines.....esp the milss as they chuck it everywhere....(horizontally)

what do others use for screening and suds.....?

ur new tank....obviously on bearings but with a liftable lid that has a deep internal lip....that way the slops wont get out when moving it.....

I have a large 4bed 4bath house thats rented out in the summer.....

first years rental the electric was horrendus......

so went nuts, upgrade all the light fittings (mostley wall lights) trying to get the same type of bulbs.....

then ordered a job lot from China.....

what I pay for 1 and 1/2 bulbs here (a foreign land) I can buy 10......allowing for breakages (non occ) and duff bulbs we are now quids in.....

most clients leave every light and fan on all day.....even the outside lights (prob 10'ish, thankfully led x3w)

so to cover the costs rental went up......

for a laugh, we often get asked to put air con in the house, so that would at least 5 unitsx2kw'ish.....can u imagine the electric bill then.....better to have a couple of weeks empty than have that lot running.....

strangely we live 1/2 way up a hill and there is always a gentle breeze and plenty of coverd patios.....why do u need air-con even in 38-40 deg of heat......

water heating is solar and this works well for 95% of the year.....the cold days we go back to live there so heat with wood....mostley Olive....a bad winter we use 2 ton.....

so in answer to ur question, I'd def go LED and find something to cover those bricks, gotta be something easy to fit and removable.....actually some white vynal sheeting like truck curtains (used)(fire proof) and battens would do a treat.....

Just think about it.....

weve been buying oil from the tent dwellers for to long....

Now overpriced gas from the lovers of Communism......

even importing wood chips from over the Atlantic....

best dig a whole and get away from them asap.....

I just hope the US becomes self sufficient in oil/gas then the tent swellers can drink the stuff/oil.....

Now living in Crete....dont take it to heart about the charges........

If you can find anyone to deliver to Greece let alone the islands your lucky.....

these parcel firms add a further €20-40 euros extra to the bill for "difficult area's"....

in our nearest big town there's a busy DHL office......

I asked if I could collect direct from the office but the same extra charges still apply........!!!!!!

Never bother buying anything from France as I hate the place......

that really leaves Germany and frankly they are not interested......

so where poss I buy within Greece......I got a large parcel from N/Greece contaning fork lift chains etc etc....

about 20kgs....it was delivered to Crete in 3 days for the sum of 12euros by a Greek courier firm.....

and the best bit

I was asked to pay the courier the full billing amount in cash....€240...(this is quite normal here)....they dont like credit cards....the firm I used is an international fork lift / plant parts company......!!!!!!!!!!

this has happend on other courier deliveries......

as we dont have a proper address we give the local bar as the delivery address and our mobile number......

(your mb/number is always used as part of your address, here it goes on the next line under your name).......

we get a phone call from the driver about an hour before del......and we meet at a set time at the bar......SIMPLES....

to add.......

it's almost impossible to buy any machine tools other than from the mainland......

you can add at least 50% to any drill's grinders or circ/saw etc etc....to any UK costed tooling

all steels and alloys and wood are roughly 5 times the price of the mianland....

I know a builder guy that finds it cheaper to get the ferry to Athens, load up his lorry with timber and then get back home.......as an example 40m2 of a decent but pine decking boards was €800........mmmm......

but I guess thats the price of living on an island in the SUN.....hahaha.....

Return to the UK, to quote ............"I'd rather eat wasps"...you guy's dont know how lucky you are......

Until those at the top are affected personally by the freight charges nothing will happen.....

we are all just a meal ticket and cannon fodder.....for those above........

If ur cutting just normal stuff have heard good results from Lidil Aldi mini band saw.....and others....

accurate and think they will cut upto 50mm solid.....u need to check that.....my stuff is all industrial....

the last time I think they were around 70 -80 squids......

angle grinder's create a lot of mess n sparks......

pretty much anything I cut with an angle grinder is done outside of the shop.....

I would never buy anything that was not made by the grinder manufacturer as I worry about them getting loose and vibs.....

seen to many accidents.....

Im 72 and still have all my digits and plan on keeping that way....hahaha...

If I need to use a small chuck I just put in the large chuck...easy....

I dont know much but all the vices I have none of those blocks....(6-8).....even mag bases .....

if u need accuracy I use a dial gauge and prat about a bit....there other ways if u dont have a dial gauge.....

it doesnt take long even on the heavy vices to get them square.....

also it's handy if u do need a little of square cut....

The only gloves I wear are for welding.....

after years of good service, my hands / skin have work harden'd...hahaha.....

the only time I wear those nitrile type gloves is when dare I say it...? dye my wifes hair.....hahaha...

I can handle any kind of oil or grease even empting the sud's tank's on my hands

BUT just cant stand garden dirt ......very strange.......

all the best ....

all my lathe's and mill's are on frames with adjustable feet....

this way I can move em about with a pallet truck......

the big mill is a full size Bridgeport......easy peasy....

Several of u mentioned "ordering from Aldi"...is this the norm......

I dont live in the UK anymore but a friend could order/collect their Plasma cutter for me.....

Anyone got this cutter...any good tips.....?

it will only get used once in a while on 8mm plate or less....it's for a DIY jobs not production....

MIke G,

sadly ur link to the train didn't work.......damm BBC.....

found it on........Posative News.com......something unfortunatley the BEEB has forgotten all about...

remember Tomrrows World, Raymond Baxter....eh....

Taris,

my Toro Time Cutter ride on mower has a 18HP pertol engine and the electro clutch is def ok with that HP.....

it is a modified version of a Car AC unit.....

but I'd prefer something easier....how about the motor on a rocking mounting plate and just slacking off the drive belt will be enough to disengage the drive.....

I did the same thing on my Colchester Student lathe...works a treat.....

the belt has to be just loose enogh to slip/diengage the drive but not loose enough to fall off.....

mine has been faultless for the last few years of constant use....

make the cars for less than 1/2 the price a Petrol engined car is now and we'll buy a new EV now....

well almost all of us.........

my thinking is it costs less to make than the vehicles now (petrol), certainly as much electronic nonsence...

hopefully more reliable than now.....

it's just 4 wheels n tyres (no spare anymore, been like that for years) a few cheapo metal pressings and a whole load of plastic poo to sit on and in.....

yes the research has to be paid for but if 25% of the population bought an EV in the next year they'd still make a fortune.....

been told,

to replace my VW T4 Diesel BUS/Kombi (with no RUST) will set me back over £60,000 for the EV version....

the Diesel version, I got a quote 1 year ago for a tad over £41,000........

come on guy's get realistic.....

also, with all this electro nonsence/static etc in an EV, will they rust out quicker than they do already.....?

I enjoy this post....more please......

I used to import a lot materials from the US......

but in the end just gave up becaus of the greedy people in suits.....

funny how stuff can come from China without any duties to be paid......

I once wanted some expensive items from Israel...... a few thousand pounds worth....

to get them in France where I lived would have trebled the cost....

I was advised to get the paper work done in Greece......still in the EU.....

all told expences and duties paid where just a few hundred Euro's.....!!!!!

I am not sure but have been told that items from the US if delivered to Belgium are duty free....?????

Does anyone remember (1966'ish`) when you wanted something from outside Britain you had to get special forms and make payment to the UK bank and answer all kinds of questions.....

I wanted a workshop manual for a Harley Duo-Glide......might as well been asking for gold......hahaha...

..........

thats an awful lot of play...

is the chuck secure on the shaft, jaws tight on the bar and the bar is a good way in.....?

can you get the DTI on the back end of the main shaft....or near enough...

with the test bar in the chuck and a good tug will show up any play......

not sure of the lathe design but aren't these brearings adjustable...??.