Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Firstly, yes these are probably trivial questions for many, but I am not sure being a newcomer, so please be patient!

1. My Myford ML7 manual "Lubrication Chart" recommends Esso Febis K68 for the ways etc. Now while new Myford supply it for £20 per litre this oil seller does what seems to be the same thing repackaged for half the price - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-MADE-SLIDEWAY-OIL-ISO-46-HORIZONTAL-VERTICAL-SLIDE-WAYS-/171885394037?var=&hash=item6d9ed900d9

can someone confirm whether in their experience, for a hobbyist, the third party oil be more than good enough?

2. For the oil nipples, am I correct in saying that I need a compatible oil gun filled with (ideally) Nuto H32 oil? In which case is the £71 (!!) Myford oil gun the only viable option?

Thanks in advance.

As part of my ongoing Myford ML7 maintenance, I have decided to repaint one of the badly painted cast-iron raiser blocks. Firstly the before:

And the newly bare cast iron:

Having watched this excellent video of Myford restoration, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sVXvBxLG6fU , the chap says a 'spot putty' needs to be aplied to replicate the 'spray putty' texture originally applied by Myford?

I was planning to simply spray red oxide primer, then finish with spray gloss Myford grey. Can someone elaborate why or indeed if, I should do this puttying stage, and generally whether my plan is correct for cast iron.

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 24/01/2017 20:59:35

Hello all,

I need to buy some Myford grey to repaint a few parts of my original 1950s ML7. Since after a quality paint I'm going to buy from Paragon paints. http://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/Myford-Lathe-Grey.html

However I'm struggling to decide whether the original factory paint was either gloss or semi gloss. I would say semigloss - but obviously would be great if others could confirm either way.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks. To confirm: this is the closest thing I can find:

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/abrasives/surface-conditioning-products/18761-152x25-4x25-4-8smeddbwl-wheel/p/MMM2451658Y

is this what you meant (can't find "flex-wheel" )

......£52 though!! Or is this to be expected for quality wheels?

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/01/2017 18:07:37

I want a way to remove the post electrolysis 'film' after I've taken ferrous pieces out of my electrolysis bath. Obviously removing this non-chemically bonded film is the last stage in cleaning up dirty steel. NB: my electrolysis consists of: the work wired to the cathode, suspended in an aqueous soda crystal solution, powered by a 12V dc supply.

So far I have been using wire wool, which isn't ideal for various reasons. I'm hoping someone can recommend a wheel to add to my bench grinder for this purpose.

I remember seeing this video in which a red 'cloth' like wheel was used to clean up some dirty steel, much like I want to do.

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/01/2017 17:53:04

Further to my previous thread regarding original Myford levelling studs and raising blocks, I de rusted rhen degreased the four levelling screws/bolts, with a view to chemicaly backening them for protection going forward. Here's a photo of before and after:

Although it's acadmeic for these four screws, for future reference can others confirm whether this is a correct method:

Heat with gas torch to a faint dull red then drop into new motor oil.

I'm still unsure of exactly why blackening is recommended for steel components does it both harden (via the quenching) and behave as a good rust inhibitor - does the carbon from the oil effectively etch itself to the steel surface?

I assume for typical modelling threads this won't interfere with thread tolerances?

Thanks to David's double nut trick, I have successfully removed all 4 studs.

To answer the £1,000,000 question: there are indeed TWO female threads, separated with a shoulder, in each block: 5/16" & 9/16" BSFs. The stud does thread into the block, but mine was definitely gunked up and took some leverage to remove.

Thanks all again for the input.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 02/01/2017 00:32:05

Yes, sorry overlooked that when replying. Am going to have a go now!

Does anyone know how the studs are held in the blocks? Also are the O rings just a push fit in the recesses?

Ideally want to remove the former, and definitely remove the latter, for stripping and re-painting the blocks.

Thanks for the replies chaps. Will take my time and read them thoroughly once back in the workshop.

Yes to be explicit, I managed to (after some spanner with elbow grease) remove the four levelling bolts which had been painted in! Here's the photo of the new ones that were linked by Michael:

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 28/12/2016 21:38:53

Woops, attached are the block photos. Advise as per my original post would be much appreciated.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 28/12/2016 16:06:33

Hello all,

Having taken the (original I think) Myford raiser blocks off my ML7 with Myford cabinet stand, I want to check a few things:

Compared with the main lathe, the paint work is flaking and generally poorly applied. Also the levelling nuts were painted in...will repaint anyway, but want to gauge whether experienced Myford owners agree this was a home bodge?

See first photo, the studs (with levelling nuts out), wont budge. Curious to know, how and why are these fixed to the block? Slightly concerned that there wont he enough thread protruding to fit the final nut on the bed.

Want to fit coolant pump in due course. Will these O rings be up to the job of sealing the tray to stop it leaking through? They're slightly proud of the bottom face of the block.

Can someone recommend a *quality* Myford grey paint (having found a few online) - mins a 1950s made ML7.

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 27/12/2016 15:05:31

Have regularly felt a bit like 'all take, no give' on this forum, always having my beginner-y questions helpfully answered, I'm pleased that I can offer input for once:

I'm currently studying a theoretical physics degree. If you have a reasonable grasp of elementary (secondary school level) maths then working your way through say an A Level maths revsion guide would give a budding home engineer extra insigbt for plotting, trigonometry etc.

Ignore those wallies who dismiss it as pretenious bulls*it (have not syndrome...) any advanced maths you can get to grips with is immensley satisfying. Enjoy it!

Thanks all, particularly Hopper, for the guidance.

I shall re-post if I get any further problems!!

Hello all,

First of all I am a newcomer to metalworking so please be patient with me!

After an off axis tailstock drilled and tapped hole, this made me think that the tailstock is not properly aligned with the head stock. After deliberating whether to tackle the more involved 2 collar turning method, I decided it safer to pay a bit more and buy a ready ground 2MT test bar (centre drilled both ends too). Photo of setup attached. If somone can address the following that would much appreciated:

1. Am I correct that it can be used for all 3 alignments: headstock, bed twist, tailstock alignment?

2. If so i thought that taper mating at each end would independently align them by running a toolpost clamped dial test along it. Which leads me to...

3. There is a strange periodic swinging of the dial over about a thou every ~1/16 inch or traverse. I can only think that the dial (0.0001" precsion) is actually picking up the helical cutting marks?

4. Videos I've watched always show the bar between centres. But why does it have a taper?

5. Please talk me through all the necessary steps to align the tailstock at the very least!

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 19/12/2016 00:36:08

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 19/12/2016 00:36:50

I ordered a basic hygrometer as advised. I plan to record % relative humidity values over a few days to see what I'm dealing with. Does anyone know what appoximate values are desirable in a workshop?

Thanks all for yet more useful input.

That's particularly helpful Frank. I'll be provide further details of the workshop as is so hopefully specific advise may come about:

A double external garage with gabled roof of trussed rafters support. Floor is one giant concrete pouring. Not sure if membrane below - will do the plastic sheet test! Two up and over tin doors.

Workshop is one quarter of floorspace partitioned by insulated wall, and the roof joists have insulation between them and are boarded below for the workshop ceiling. Hence the worksop has: two insulated plywood lined wall, one concrete/brick single skin wall, and the tin door.

Yes roof insulation would be ideal BUT sadly I cannot insulate the roof below the felt because of another hobby of mine - an observatory in the roof space above workshop. Poking telescopes and cameras through insulated roofs, that as you say slowly re radiate, are a big no no RE optical quality. Thus why I'm careful to provide a good thermal barrier at the joist level, not at the rafter level.

As ever, great advise on this forum. Thanks all.

A couple have asked my age - early 20s. I have wondered whether I am more predisposed to 'rusty fingers' than others; I have always seemed to quickly rust ferrous metals and tarnish brass etc as long as I can remember. So biology must be against me!

I'm in south Somerset, so fairly mild weather most of the year. Just looked and the garage does have a membrane in the brick course, and I imagine that there's one under the concrete floor?

So to summarise I plan to do the following:

• Spray 'working surfaces' including tooling with ACF 50. Do I need the aerosol or is it more economical to buy the bottle and use a garden sprayer?
• Install a dehumidifier - can anyone recommend a model for a workshop about 12.5 m^3?

Just found a tin of Thompson's sealant on the garage will upload a photo of the tin - hopefully someone can advise whether it's suitable for painting on the interior of the wall.

As per the title, I have been trying to develop a method to long term protect ferrous hand tools and machine tool accessories e.g. lathe chucks, faceplates etc.

My worksop is a recently partitioned (with insulation and an electric heater) section of a single skin external garage. After asking Axminster Tools what's the best solution for coating ferrous surfaces, I bought a tin of their machine wax (http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-machine-wax-ax957553)

I was hoping that, after always having problems with rust prior to doing all of the above, that it will finally be kept at bay. However after picking up a waxed 3 jaw chuck there are already some surface bright rust patches 48 hours later!! Should I always wear gloves?

It baffles me since workshop videos etc on youtube always seem to have pretty shiny ferrous surfaces, and the operator is using bear hands, and I can't imagine they are constantly waxing and treating every ferrous surface.

However, other bits that I've waxed are still rust free, and therefore I can only assume that I wasn't generous enough with waxing the chuck?

But in any case please can others divulge their tactics for keeping rust at bay!

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 13/09/2016 14:11:39

Dear all,

After flicking through an original Myford ML7 manual to accompany my secondhand ML7, I am unsure what I need to do to properly attach the lathe bed to the raising blocks.

I have read and understand the procedure(s) for ensuring dead level lathe bed from the meal, but I need to have lock down nuts available to complete the procedure. As seen in the attached images, both blocks have nuts (which are truly stuck in place!) between the bed and raiser block surfaces. However no additional nuts are available to lock it down, and I fear there's insufficient thread protruding to attach nuts in a couple of places (second image).

Please can someone explain how to arrange the bits (including buying additional nuts if required) to (a) properly complete the levelling procedure and (b) then permanently fix the bed in place.