Here is a list of all the postings jim' has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Lathe shocks |
02/08/2015 09:35:52 |
i had exactly the same problem on my Sieg C4, changed the mickey mouse plug, end of problem |
Thread: Locking nut |
06/07/2015 04:26:24 |
ebay |
Thread: Lathe design not keeping up |
24/06/2015 05:14:57 |
Very interesting.
Just one question. How does the jockey/tension wheel cope in "reverse"?
Thanks
Jim |
Thread: Q for Crusader type lathe owners |
07/05/2015 05:07:15 |
I just unwound mine, put some leather gloves on though, if you do!
Not bothered with the brackets, one day, when there is nothing to do, I'll chop them off! So many things to improved...... |
Thread: EMG-12 Endmill Re-sharpening module |
13/04/2015 20:15:20 |
My thoughtss too. |
Thread: Outstanding Service |
13/11/2014 20:33:53 |
Toolstation
Ordered a power monitor for the shed at 6.30 PM, came the next day at 10 AM!
|
Thread: CNC Demo -- amazing |
04/10/2014 19:22:25 |
i used to set and run three of these
|
Thread: Fake Mitutoyo Digital Callipers on eBay |
30/09/2014 19:32:47 |
Edited By jim' on 30/09/2014 19:33:21 |
Thread: Problems with CNC cut knurl - sub-contract order |
23/09/2014 16:11:17 |
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 23/09/2014 15:08:06:
I find it difficult to believe that the knurls would be cut groove by groove, time equals expensive. When they said 'cut' may be they meant something like these tools: which cut knurls in one pass, rather than forming them. Regards, Andrew That's what i use, only give trouble if they are not set correctly.I'd also drill hole after knurling |
Thread: Which plastic to use. |
20/09/2014 02:37:12 |
here are a few charts on plastics
think i'd go with delrin Edited By jim' on 20/09/2014 02:39:17 |
Thread: Favourite Engineering quotes. |
18/09/2014 17:02:12 |
If you can't make it right, make it bright
|
Thread: D1-4 ER40 collet chuck- fitted! |
14/09/2014 10:35:44 |
Further update. I have now put some self amalgamating tape on the O/D of the closer so it can be gripped easier. I have been drilling and tapping some 30mm dia mild steel this morning and parting off. I'm happy to say no movement at all. Parting off has been transformed, the rear tool post comes in to its own now that the silly leadscrew covers are now gone and i can run the tool close to the collet |
Thread: lead screw cover removal chester crusader |
05/09/2014 07:28:04 |
Likewise John!
Just been back in the shed and unwound the covers, like you say, saves pulling everything off! I'll do the same trick with a dremel over the weekend.
Gained just over 2" of travel at the chuck. After using the ER40 chuck for a few weeks, it had to be done!
Thank you! |
05/09/2014 05:26:58 |
Just been and had a proper look, it looks like about 3" more travel |
05/09/2014 04:55:14 |
Since fitting the ER40 collet chuck to my Chester Crusader, I am thinking about removing the lead screw cover to allow me to get closer to the spindle.
Has anyone else done this and how much more travel will I gain?
I'm hopeful of getting an extra inch or so
Thank you
Jim |
Thread: D1-4 ER40 collet chuck- fitted! |
02/08/2014 15:13:19 |
The closer would be better if it had scallops on the O/D, and either about an inch smaller (for single handed use) or an inch bigger (for two handed use). I will have to have a look at work to see if I can "find" a bit of ally 7" dia. The closer is simply pressed on the nut. I wanted to be able to get it off again, if needed. If it slips, I'll just put a couple of locking screws on. It was a good idea to leave enough of the nut exposed so that a spanner could be used. I bought the collets from "Gloster Tooling", as they go up to 30mm. Overall worth while doing. It is worth noting that I do have a foot brake on this lathe. |
02/08/2014 11:18:01 |
Now got the collet chuck fitted. All is ok, the hand closer works very well, especially on smaller dia stuff. There is still space to use a spanner if needed. |
Thread: ER40 collet chuck D1-4 |
28/07/2014 17:46:07 |
Well UPS came today! Came home from work to a big box of collets and the chuck. I put the chuck on, clocked up less than a thou run, so looking good! I went for the collets that cover up to 30mm and also bought a bearing nut. First experiment was the 20mm stainless bar, I tightened the collet up with a moderate amount of force, cut well, no problems at all. Next up I used some 28mm mild steel and just tightened the nut by hand, gave it a tap and was surprised to see the bar solid. So feeling brave i started to machine the bar and it was solid!! The nut even came undone by hand, so looks like the 6" hand collet closer could be the way to go after all. Big thank you to everyone that gave advice, it really helped.
Special thanks to John and John |
25/07/2014 09:27:46 |
ordered, so now i await posty |
25/07/2014 07:44:04 |
Just tried a 20mm collet in one of the ARC/JS collet blocks. Yesterday i was turning some 20mm dia stainless (in hard jaws), so same speeds, feeds and same (worn) tip. Results are good, not even tightened up overly tight, there was no movement and it cut better than in three jaw chuck. I was running about 60 thou cut yesterday, (.120" off dia). in the ER32, 80 thou was if anything easier going. So, i'll order a D1-4 collet chuck, box of collets and a bearing nut and see how it goes. I remain unsure about a six inch dia hand closer on the nut (for now anyway!) Once again, i really appreciate the advice, as it got me thinking!! I'll post my findings when its all up and running |
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