Member postings for JP Santos

Thank you
That's my 68 Shovelhead - also known as Genny shovel or Panshovel - built between 66 and 69 they had Panhead bottom ends and Shovelhead top ends

Hi again,

thanks for the last post, I shall take note of that advice/tips on a note pad and keep it handy.

really appreciate the help given yesterday. many thanks!

JP

Thanks for that, I did find that diagram earlier, at least is good to know that if that backlash comes back I can buy a new lead screw and nut....

I will have a read on the "know your lathe manual" - it was given to me by the previous owner of my south bend lathe when I bought it. Never got to read it in details as the little lathe was in pretty good condition and I used it for basic jobs.

The Boxford now will allow me to explore more the world of lathes, specially looking forward to some screw cutting.

Evening gents!!

Just got back in from the garage after reading your posts, it's sorted!

So I first done the adjustment on the dial, by undoing the grub screw (luckily I work on Harleys so it's all imperial here) on the dial side, by pushing the dial forward while pulling on the handle, then done the grub screw back in and the slop on the dial/handle was completely gone.

However.. there was still the backlash on the cross slide....
Turned to the spare apron that came with the lathe, a Model C apron, which turning it was pretty nice and tight with no backlash.

Started to taking it apart thinking I could use the whole lead screw and nut... wrong! the lead screw being from a model C doesn't have the gear that engages on the apron to give the auto cross slide...
however!
the nut was in pretty good condition, tested the nut on the lead screw that is currently on the lathe and perfect fit.

So, I fitted lead screw nut that was on the spare model C apron on the Model A cross slide and bingo! done the job.. perfect with no backlash anywhere!

thanks for the help on directing me where to look.

Next thing to look at is at certain speeds I have quite a lot of gear noise, I can't remember for sure but I think it's when at the higher speeds, if I engage the auto feed lead screw gears, it's quite noisy..

What kind of lubricant can I use on all the gears? gearbox and on the side? or should it be grease?
I have lathe oil back from when I used a Myford and needed to fill up the little oil tanks...

Sorry to sound massively dumb here, how do I adjust the wheel/dial aseembly?
as per my previous post, the only way I can see this is to shim that gap where I'm pointing at with the allen key.....but I bet there's another way I dont know?

I have a spare saddle and top slide for a Boxford and I think that one is pretty tight, so I'll see how difficult is to swap the lead screw and nut...

where would one go to buy new parts for it please? thanks!

JP

Thanks for the replies gents.

I just went over to the garage to check it.

Neil, you are correct, the handle and dial move back and forth, I took it out and seems like it's due to a little gap here where I'm pointing with the allen key... perhaps put a little shim there?
or is there other way of taking that backlash off the dial? (need to find what size the little grub screws are as they need replacing as seem to start to get rounded off)

But, besides that backlash there, also seems there's more.
if I hold/push the handle forward, I still have the cross slide rocking back and forward..... perhaps a bit more tricky to get rid of this?
Done a little video to show.

Thanks for your replies and suggestions.

Hi all !
Over the years I always come back here for a read and a shout for help and you all always been so kind that I thought if you could help me once again...

I decided to upgrade my little southbend lathe to something with a few more capabilites and ended up with this Boxford at a very good price.
She started life as a Model C and was then converted to an A - therefore why the red colours on the gear box, apron and lead screw..

Everything works as it should and I'm looking forward to give a go at screw cutting.

However.. she has a huge amount of backlash on the cross slide...
Also on the top slide there's quite a bit of play on the turning lever (I'm sorry, I don't know all the technical terms)

I think the backlash on the cross slide is the most important as when turning any material, it jumps back.. ok you could work taking in account this, but is not ideal...

Is there a away to fix all this? I see all the videos on youtube where people set there work pieces, then turn dials to zero it and cut thous of an inch at the time perfectly, and I would like to do that, but with all this play I won't be able to...

I have taken some photos and also done a video so it's easy to see what I'm talking about as I'm pretty rubbish with the technical terms.

If there was anyone local to Newbury, Berkshire that would be willing to help me I have some bits I could trade? I have a milling attachment for a myford (was hoping it would fit the boxford but doesn't look like), a spare Boxford model C Apron and a lead screw...

btw, I use the lathe on my old harleys that range from 1951 to 1976.

thank you!
JP

Edited By JP Santos on 23/09/2018 15:39:58

Edited By JP Santos on 23/09/2018 15:41:04

Hi all,

just thought of coming here and update this seeing as its only fair as so many of you helped.

Got lathe all lined up and she's a beauty working and the best of all is she's working on the button again, without tripping the house main fuse!!

went with the cheaper option first by ordering the new start capacitor and that sorted the problem, happy days!

thanks to all for your input and the links!

got the capacitor on order now

thing is, the lathe was working fine at the sellers house, but then again his fuseboard might have been better than mine or something might have got damaged when in transit to mine.

I'll try the capacitor and then go with Johns advice

thanks!

oh thanks for that!!!

its only a tenner, and there's even the 55uf on that list! :D thanks! will probably give that one a try before going with John Fletcher suggestion, as that all sounds very complicated and time consuming, so I'll start with the easy ones first

Thanks everyone for the tips on the alignment! think I got that one right now, i'm happy with the results achieved.

Now in regards to the motor.. maybe a good start just to change the capacitor? they dont seem very expensive, although I cant find one exactly like the one I have on the motor

Hi all, thanks for the replies, I've read all of it.

Thanks to John Fletcher, I shall read yours in more detail later when I get a bit more time.

Just thought of putting some photos up, on something I thought, correct me if I'm wrong please.
So what I've done was set my facing off tool in the tool post, slightly below what I think is the centre, surely by doing this it would not face perfectly and leave a little pointy bit on the round bar...this little bit would be where the exact centre is?
then I brought he tail stock with a dead centre on it and tried to match it to the pointy bit on the bar.... would this work?
I did read about mounting a dead centre on the chuck but I dont have one that is not tappered, so I'm guessing it wouldnt stay completly dead centre, right?

you can just see here, the little tip out of the round bar

and from above

I also took some photos of the motor

Sorry, not much info, just in a rush at the moment, will come back later.

thanks to all who have helped so far, really really appreciate the help.

thanks
JP

Ooppss!! sorry, Im in Andover, Hampshire

Hi there,

I've recently bought a south bend lathe, some of you have helped already with the idle/compound gears, thank you very much for that.

But now I think I have another issue.. well, actually I have 2 issues!

First issue is (and has always been like this) when I start the lathe, it trips out the main fuse in the house.... now, I know this is dangerous what I'm doing, but the way I got around it, is to spin the flywheel on the engine by hand and then hit the start button - never fails. not ideal, but seems like if the engine is spinning then it wont trip out.

Second thing - is there anyone who does home visits just to set the lathe up? I think mine is not aligned, what I mean is the tailstock is not bang in the centre.. now I've read loads about how to set it all up and check, but I dont have the tools for it or hability (will always be doubtful if I'm doing it right) so wondering if anyone does a home visit to set it up?

I'm using the lathe for simple things, like bushes and spacers, and different diameters pieces with threaded ends... but would like to know its all being done properly.
Specially as if I have to drill a hole on a piece of round bar, if the tailstock isnt centered that hole will never be right...

thanks in advance
JP

thanks for that info, been reading a bit more and looks like the guy I emailed yesterday was right mentioning that I needed a 80t idle gear and he has one for £18....

looking at the screw cutting chart, and bear in mind im only interested in the longitudinal power feed, I do need that 80t gear.

I can set it up as shown on FIG1... or even FIG2.
That 80t gear is always present on both setups, then I can put the other gears as I have those.

And here's some very useful bit of information (added in case someone ends here with the same questions as myself)

There should be a total of 17 gears - 14 of these have the 9/16" keyed bore.
The tooth counts are 16, 24, 32 (quantity of 2), 36, 40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 80.

The remaining three have the 5/8" bore, no key.
The tooth counts are 80, 72/18 and 54/18, the latter two known as compound gears.

The three smooth bored gears can only be used as idlers, of course.

In addition to the square head bolt/sleeve/nut that you're missing, there is also a spacer with 9/16" keyed bore that moves the screw gear to the left, allowing mesh with the idlers for reduction.

Edited By JP Santos on 12/02/2015 16:16:56

that's it!! Compund gear!!!

I've found a couple on ebay UK!! the original one is 72/18 and the ones I found are not the same but doesnt matter.

I just want it to connect to the lead screw so I can have the power longitudinal feed.....
I can then adjust the longitudinal feed speed by changing the load of gears I already have... I think that will work?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOXFORD-LATHE-COMPOUND-GEAR-18-54-TEETH-LATHES-MILLING-DRILL-ENGINEERING-TOOLS-/191507744210?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c96c045d2

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/54-18-Tooth-Compound-Change-Gear-For-Boxford-Lathe-With-Bush-Bolt-Assembly-/121562745282?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item1c4db449c2

Now, this looks more like it! thanks
Do I really need that washer with the key slot? I put one of the change gears I have on the end of the lead screw and it just fits fine....

that's the idle gear I need, exactly that you have there on the photo!
Where to get one from though?...cant find it! might email that guy from yesterday again.

Thanks for all the help gents

JP

Hi,

I have an original "know your lathe" book, which was given to me by the previous owner, had a quick read of it yesterday night.

I do have a load of gears, the ones that go in the end of the lead screw, what I'm missing is the other gear that connects the leadscrew to the rest..

here's a photo of the gears it came with

I've looked on ebay and cant find anything, done searches on southbend idle gear and boxford idlegear and nothing comes up...

longitudinal feed! now that names rings a bell! that's more familiar to me...