Member postings for Peter Simpson 1

Hi Martin

The inverter is a Jaguar Cub the fault code on tripping is LU. The RCD is being tripped by the saw. I Will do some investigating into the fault code. I think it's an under voltage fault. Thanks Peter.

As I do not have a megger so it looks like I'm stuffed. If there was an insulation fault it would probably cost more than the saw is worth. As the motor is flanged to the body of the saw I cannot see the possibilities of changing the motor for a single phase motor.

Could anybody out there give me some advice on an electrical problem I have in my workshop. I have a Meddings HS4 Donkey saw that has developed a fault. The saw runs off an inverter as its a dual voltage 3 Phase motor. Yesterday whilst sawing a piece of bar stock it tripped the workshop RCD, I have disconnected the three outgoing load wires from the inverter to the motor. When the saw is switched on the inverter runs to 50 HZ on the display all ok. When the motor is reconnected to the inverter the RCD trips as soon as the saw is started. I have checked the three motor connections to earth with my multi meter there are no shorts to earth in these. Not sure what to check next. The motor is a Newman B56D/ FB214 cannot find any info about this frame size on the net.

I'm looking to fit some taper pins to the valve gear on my 5" gauge loco. Is there a rule of thumb regarding the drill size for a taper pin. For example if fitting a 1/16" taper pin. What would the drill size be ?

HI Alan,

What material are you cutting, I have the same machine and it would struggle to cut 1mm over 100mm, if the material was mild steel..

Peter

You are not a million miles from the Ryedale Model engineering railway at Gilling East, They must have one of the best if not the best GL5 railways in England. They run steam trains most week ends between Easter to September. Twice a year they run main line days with 30- 40, 5"gauge Steam and Diesel loco running a strict time table. A brilliant time to see the best loco's you will see anywhere.

Welcome to the fold Paul, North Yorkshire myself.

Peter

The cylinders are cast iron.

Hi all, I have just about completed the cylinders for my 5" gauge BR Standard Class 2 to Don Young's plans.

The pistons are designed to have 1/4" square graphite packing as the piston seal / ring. Could an Viton O ring be used for the seal ?

Peter

Sumlock Comptometer ?

I have the Soba version. I need to use a jewelers loupe with it. Brilliant and very accurate.

At the present time I in the process of machining castings for my 5" gauge BR Standard Class 2.

I have machined the two blocks of cast iron to rectangular size, bored out the cylinder and valve chest holes to size. The blocks are now the correct three inches long with both ends machined parallel to the bores. The next job is to machine the external shape of the cylinder blocks. This requires the blocks to be rotated whilst milling the external radius.

I have seen this done by mounting the blocks between centers held on an expanding mandrel. As I do not have an expanding mandrel. What would be the best method to achieve this operation ?

I have two lathes.

1, A used Myford S7 which has power cross feed.

2, A used Boxford ME 10 with power cross feed and a rare clutch, it is the actual one shown on Tony's lathes.co.uks site.

Both are well built machines with similar specs. I don't know why but prefer to use the Myford in preference to the Boxford even though the Boxford has a bigger spindle bore 3MT and better ways.

I would assume if I put both up fore sale the Myford would sell quicker and for more money.

Hi Anthony,

Thanks for the warning. I will redesign the cable routing to remove this hazard.

Went back into the workshop this morning there was still an acrid smell. I have ordered 6 new light fitting, so the work on my BR Standard gauge 2 will be on hold for a few days. Better safe than sorry.

Worked all day in the workshop today. At about 17:00 hrs my wife said the house sockets had tripped. This was at the same time as I had gone back into the workshop and switched the lights back on. After a few basic checks, one of my six fluro tubes was not lit. I took the tube out and removed the bottom cover to find the ballast was red hot with insulation melting out of the laminate magnet.The heat had melted the insulation on three twin and earth cables running through the light fitting to other fitting in the workshop. All now sorted but it could have been much worse.

Hi All

I tried an SES 24volt pygmy lamp today, It worked but is not bright enough. I will venture down the LED route. The original 440/125 volt transform will need to be removed. This will free up for a LED driver to be installed into the MEM switch housing.

The future looks bright.

Hi Guy's.

Thanks for the replies. Will a 12 Volt car headlamp bulb run off 15V ac without blowing. If not I think the best way forward is to remove the stepdown transformer and use the original MEM switch to switch the 240v mains and use an LED low voltage device to power the lamp. The LED device could be mounted in the switch housing where the transformer is now.

I have Tom Senior milling with the original light fitting. The light is supplied through a step down transformer with a approx 30 volt or 15 volt output. For the last couple of years I have been using 50 Volt standard bayonet lamps, Due to vibrations on the lamp fitting the lamp connections burn out quite quickly, I have rewired the lamp and fitted a small ES lamp holder in the lamp. What lamp bulbs would work using this set up ?

Cut the Red wire..........Anybody fancy a pint. I'll get me coat.