Member postings for Senior Yates

Nice work Paul, do you have any drawing available?

Hi Gary,

Try Nylacast I would recommend Aquanyl PA6/12 as it doesn't absorb water. No link to this company but I have used their material many times.

Good luck

When I was an apprentice toolmaker I worked with a turner who could do this and he called them Dagenham reamers. If we didn't have the correct size reamer he would sharpen the drill to cut the correct size. I believe he was ex fords hence the name "Dagenham Reamer". He was the quickest and best manual turner I've ever meet.

Hi Andy,

If you can look at old MEW there is an article on refurbishing a Tom Senior, I've got them somewhere but can't put my hands on them. If not I made one as my M1 has a spacer to give me more head room out of 10 mm rubber belt that you glue together.

Regards

Hi Stuart,

I've had a Drummond great little lathe. An old British made Challenger lathe terrible, a Myford which I couldn't get rid of quick enough. I have just purchased a Boxford TS10.20 in near new condition for £1500 and it is a dream to use the closest hobby machine I've used compared to industrial machines. I cannot recommend Boxford enough far better than the "M" word machines.

Good luck.

Just got my latest copy of MEW in the post and had a quick flick through. Is there a new competition this month??? How many photos of the editor can you find or Spot the editor!!!!! I counted 9.... Really Neil I think I'm onto something here. Lol

Hi Dave,

Yes I'm a press tool maker by trade serving my time in an old fashioned tool room but it,s been 20 plus years. I understand the mechanic of them and I've always enjoyed turning but I just can't the feel right with the smaller lathes. I'm keen to know how people set the saddle, cross slide and top slides up I've never been able to master it on a model lathe give me a Colchester or Harrison any day. I think maybe it's me trying to get to much from a small machine but I haven't got the time to take .005" cuts when I need to remove 10mm + on a job. I know the machine are very old and maybe I need to strip them down and start again?

Regards Andy

Thank you Clive I will give that a go.

Regards Andy

Thanks for the feedback.

Clive do I need to put any leverage on the spindle bore when clocking as when checking with a clock spinning the spindle it runs spot on so I'm really confused. Are there any instruction on spindle inspection and dovetail adjustment I can download or buy?

Regards

Andy

Hi all I'm supposed to be an engineer by trade but I have two old lathes one is a challenger which is very old and not very rigid the other is the so call RR of model engineers lathes Myford. I've clocked them all up spindles and all. I just cannot stop the chattering please see photo attached. What am I doing so wrong?

Edited By JasonB on 31/07/2017 07:32:48

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 31/07/2017 10:56:06

I Read this on the BBC News web page. Do you think we can get a prescription for CTAS because I've got it bad, that is all I do is make a tool to make a tool. I have books and plans of things to make but I just keep making tools to make tools. I'm off to lay down in a dark room now.......

Have we got a new segment for MEW 'Rust In Peace'

Hi Richard,

I've been reading this thread for the last couple of days with some worrying signs. Could I make a suggestion that if you have a small milling machine and some aluminium plate you could make a tool, the best thing to do is to maybe simplify the design to aid how you make your tool. Even if you have to carry out some machining of the casting when made. You could make the two lungs that stand up parallel and even the bottom of the track flat. If you add a small wedge feed on one end this will help the foundry and make it cheaper, also helps you fettle them clean afterwards. Use a foundry that uses a ceramic shell system not a plaster flask method (Very expensive) The size of your component is small so the foundry should be able to make one tree with 100 plus parts on it. This method will also have the wax autoclaved out then flash fired to remove any residue from inside the tree. The foundry can then pour, cool, cut off and give to you to fettle yourself. If you need any help with your tool design PM me. I spent 20 years as the engineering manager of a large aerospace foundry.

Good luck

Carver clamps always made good chuck keys when I worked in the Toolroom

Nice work Brian, they have cleaned up well. I can see a show winner on it's way.

Hi, if you are after just a one off option B is best but remember if you want a decent surface finish burning RP is not the best. Most RP leave an ash residue which never leads to a good finish and any printing lines will be magnified 10 fold. It's always better to ask about the size of the companies wax presses and if possible max a little tool yourself, they are only made from aluminium and brass. I had 20 years working with all types of RPs and sometimes making a little hard tool was quicker and cheaper.

Good luck

Hi Nathan,

I'm just down the road in Long Melford and have a small model engineering workshop. I don't know of any clubs near by, but I am more than happy to help you out machine and such like if you could teach me some basic CAD. I work in Norwich so travel through Bury every day. Welcome.

Regards Senior

Neil, I will consider myself told!! Funny way of update the new releases of ME and MEW!!

Grumpy old so

I've had the latest ME delivered which isn't shown above but not a copy of MEW! This starting to happen regularly and is getting annoying.

Hi Chas,

I spent 20 years as a production manager in one of the UK best aerospace foundries. The tools we mainly used were all aluminium with brass cores, there was the odd resin type we always used silicone spray on each shot to release the wax pattern. The company you should speak to is Blaysons.

Hope this helps

Senior