Member postings for Kris Lehane

Hi All. OK, so the belt on my 7 needed changing. So I stripped it down, shims are sorted, One of the cracked plastic oilers has been repaired, got an Old ML7 user's guide.. But one tiny bit of a pair of tiny nuts escaped.. I have shown it to a few people, and been met with blank looks. Not threaded, square nut, appears to be made of brown plastic.. What's it made of! Blowed if I am annoying RDG or parcel farce for such a tiny item. Any clues? Hopefully the pic will upload, but it is hidden within the ball joint, to the RHS of the primary drive spindle, clutch and flywheel on other end. It is part of the mechanism that goes L & R, small lever that engages. Not the One that you pull up and down to engage the friction drive. My guess is Tufnol.. Not Paxolin..mm

Just a quicke: LED lamps do not suffer the same fate as other type of source, as the quality of Kelvin does not deteriorate with age, unlike a dying filament or arc source, or flourie. I'll grab some details of the latest LED's being fitted to our film lamps...

K1.

Very interesting, chaps! Since I spend my life wrangling lamps when not creating swarf.. A few interesting titbits for you. From what I remember:

So what light levels do you need? In Lux, HSE says 1 lux at floor level for a fire exit. (or rule of thumb, to be able to tel the difference between a ten and Five pound note when laid at floor level, for the hieght of an average man. It used to be 10 Lux, and some people insist on 15 Lux immediately the power goes. A shop floor or office is an average of 20 Lux, minimum 5. To work in detail in a machine shop it's 200 lux (average) for detail, minimum 100, And for fine detail, it's average 500 Lux, minimum 200. HSE and USDAW and Gov. regs.

A 2KW Xennon super trooper light is gonna find you, at 133 lux flat field with a field of 4M on a throw of 300 feet, and that's the baby one!

As for kelvin, (Not degrees kelvin!! do that an a GCSE Chemistry paper... fail) Colour temp/mired shift, a standard 40W 240V lamp (not lightbulb... bulbs grow-lamps blow) is just under 1800 Kelvin. To give an example, a theatre T class lamp is 2800K, CP Class lamps are just over 3000K, and that's hot for the eye. Studios take average daylight at 5200K, which is a white film light. Film standard. Average bright sunny day.

Some useful equations:

Lumens to lux: Lux =10.76391 x lumens/(4 pi R squared Feet)

Watts to lux: Lux=10.76391 x Power (Watts) x N(Lumens per Watt) / area (foot squared)

Lux to Candela: Candela=0.92900304 x Lux x distance Squared (feet) or: Candela= Lux x distance squared in Metres.

So providing you can extract the information out of the box or manufacturer, you can work out how close your lamp and what power you need to target! Depending on your eye-sight.

BIG WORD OF WARNING: Avoid 240V lamps anywhere near the work area flying debris and LX shock...

For all the photrographers amongst us.. have a nosey at Lee lighting, Arri, and Rosco's Kelvin charts. I'm never without a swatchbook and a truckload of Technical filters to make all the lamps match the HMI in the sky... and I'm a big fan of LEDs! saves on megawatts. They also have the reflectors built in to the cathode, and the above maths also applies.

Enjoy playing light, be safe.

K1.

Steel boilers. There is a new thing afoot called duplex steel, (Actually 1935 invetion lots of nitrogen mixed in made and discovered by sandvik) .... out-doing copper. See Darjeerling threads in 7 1/4. Also known as SAF 2205. K1.

4 and 7/8" . Plus 1 3/4" 'Tother end. Gear is 0.375". depends on where you knock the roll-pin in. Speak to myford. Better still.. !!! I have a metre/inches steel rule clamped backwards in the tool-holder, on mine, and I'll wind it back by my leadscrew in 1000's..... give or take a foot, And tell you what it should be. Ask an engineer! K. Slot of laser.....

Boiler is indeed 8 inches, give or take. A venture into castellated joints, and rollers. 4 mil thickness.

It can be done. Honest guv! has anyone else tried it? I'm about to, care of a slight scale up from 3.5. Anyone else interested? Beware, the frames work out at 50" long, boiler is easy, compared with a pacific, but expensive, and scaling it up means 8" dia, perhaps a trip into duplex steel... A new & interesting build.

I have just bought, (Finally!) a wee grinding wheel so I can now re-grind my lathe tools, as per grandad and Tubal Cain's way of doing it. Has anyone got experience, as myself, on the 'Ken Keeling's half-moon facing tool' ? The first thing I re-ground, and the facing surface, even though I am very rusty, is somewhat amazing! 10 degrees and half moon... ML7... Wow! Even I'm impressed!

Hi All.

New member of the family, ML7. All is good. Re-light of the workshop, more cleaning of said ML7. Gibs and Dial test indicators. Removing 25 years of swarf, Almost complete. Ashpan pin, and boilertube-firehole turned. Still cleaning out old muck. Split betwixt lathe and product, but getting there....

K.

Bill.

I am curious, as I have just re-built an AC motor from Hoover, that has the same Three terminals, on opening it up, Marked A, B, and C, to drive my Myford ML7. I can't see a capacitor bolted to the outside, but there may be an internal One. It may be a Two-phase motor. I am familiar with most stepper motors. These usually have 4 wires, Each pair (Meter them) usually control 2 separate coils. Therefore, it's not a stepper motor. There maybe, probably, however, 2 coils, within said motor. One of the Three terminals is common for both coil A and coil B, The other Two terminals feed in to either coil A or coil B from the other end of the winding. To make it go in a certain direction, One will lag behind the other, via capacitor, or larger winding, to make it go in a certain direction. Take it apart and I am willing to bet you will find 4 terminals! Bit like riding a bike and which pedal do you push first...I t could be a delta winding Three-phase, but probably not at that size. Don't trust me, investigate further. K.

Hi, All.

Indeed, lighting is the key to highly accurate work. Since stage and event lighting is what I do for a 'Real job', we have been at this One for a while.. See Ipix, or the strand archive, to see how reflectors work. Flood, spot or something in-between. It's interesting, not only to note, the colour temperature of the devices being used, against metal, but the built-in reflectors to either the SMD (EUGH!) or wired packages. Has anyone tried drilling holes in the facets of a ready built MR 16 yet? See Patt. 23 from strand lighting. Parabola, x sqared = y and all that. Has anyone considered using a micro-fresnel lens in front? See source 4 5 degree, and then use it to focus? See ETC source 4, (or source 6 as it actually is?) I'm going to run a bit of tri-lite across the roof of the workshop, and some hard power feeds... How to etch using UV LED arrays? similar kind of thing. Power problems. 100 LED's soon add up the I's!

K1.