Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Hello Les,

I am familiar with the fact that it is series wound and needs a speed controller, or at least a "power" controller. I have run smaller series wound motors with an SCR control.

Andrew.

I am scrapping out a washing machine. I have taken off the pump as I have a use for that.

Is the electric motor worth saving? I could do with a motor to power a linisher that I have sitting on the shelf. I can probably work out the connections to motor. Is there any reason why it is inadvisable to use it for the linisher? I appreciate that it would need to be shielded, as they are hardly electrically safe as they stand.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 12/01/2017 20:15:58

Hello Roger,

I too would be interested to know how to do this. I have my ML7 mandrel out of its bearings and looking at it, maybe one needs to press off the gears? I can't see any other easy answer.

Andrew.

Hello Tim,

My sentiments entirely!

Andrew.

Hello All,

I have made a big mistake! Andrew is quite correct in what he says, The tooling socket is always in coaxial alignment with the lathe (chuck) axis! Providing it is in one of the detent positions!

I had checked previously and for some idiotic reason thought that the axes did not align. So egg on my face and some embarrassment too! I think that my current medication has a lot to do with my errors. Maybe I should be very careful when using rotating machinery. The medication definitely says that I should not. A very depressing thought!

Apologies to everyone for time wasting,

Andrew.

Hello Andrew,

Your capstan unit has the axis of rotation of the toolholding disc at right angles to the lathe axis. Mine is at approx. 45 degrees to the lathe axis, just like a dedicated capstan lathe.This explains the difference, I hope!

My apologies for not describing the turret alignment correctly in the first place!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/01/2017 12:06:09

Thanks gentlemen,

Emgee, that is exactly what I would do to align a tool position of the turret, to the axis of the lathe. Those of you who doubt that any alignment is required, please think again! The turret rotates between indented positions. So if one tool happens to be on lathe centres (highly unlikely) then rotating the turret around the MT will most certainly put it off alignment. Simply by inserting the turret into the MT and rotating the turret about the axis of the MT will show this to be true.

I have probably made a poor description of the turret and hence the incorrect answers! I should have realised that the tang was for ejection purposes only, in conjunction with a slot in the female taper. Heavens knows that I have done this enough times! The brain seems to fade when confronted with simple model engineering problems. Very odd as I am up to speed on my other (practical) hobbies. I suspect that I get overawed by things machine tool!

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/01/2017 10:45:56

I assume that "tang" is the correct description for the flats on the end of male Morse tapers?

I have always assumed that they were some locating device to ensure that the taper entered its socket in a defined orientation. But thinking about it, I have never seen the equivalent slot for the tang on a female Morse taper.

I ask because I have a multi position capstan turret that pushes into the tailstock Morse taper. With this device. It is essential that the MT goes into the tailstock in a precise position, for obvious reasons!

My tailstock MT is plain, so how is the best way to ensure the correct orientation for the capstan turret?

Andrew.

Thanks gentleman, a few solid leads there. I will take a careful look at them and invest some hard earned cash! I have had an original Myford oil gun and it is the biggest load of rubbish that ......... ah well. I tried a couple of other makes over the years and they were not much better.

Now I have two Wanner grease guns and they are brilliant and have lasted a good many years without any trouble. If I can find a Wanner oil gun that I can afford, then that is where I will go. If they are too expensive, then I will go with other recommended items.

Thanks very much indeed,

Andrew.

Hello again,

My post crossed with the one from Nick, so apologies for my unintended snub. I will give them a call and see if they are willing to sell small quantities. Most companies don't want to know about small quantity enquires for a model engineer. However I might strike lucky, well worth trying. Thanks for the lead, I will come back and let you know if they are willing to sell!

Happy New Year to all,

Andrew.

Hello,

I cannot see why there is any confusion. I said OIL GUN in my post and not oil can! I think that should define what I am looking for!

I have had several over the years and they all leak. NOT I may say, around the nipple but just about anywhere else that they can!

So can anyone tell me a make that is oil tight.? Please don't let the thread drift!! Just a name will do me!

Thanks ,

Andrew.

OK Google lists loads of American manufacturers and stockists and you can get the material on Ebay from the US at prices around £60 plus not inconsiderable postage!

Anyone know of a UK stockist that would supply small quantities?

Andrew.

Thanks Michael,

I did a search and nothing came up that was relevant. I will use Google this time!

Andrew.

I have just finished setting up the headstock of my ML7. The shims that Myford used are laminated shims. Each shim 2 thou thick.

This is such a convenient way of using shims that I would like to source some of it for future use. Simply cut the shim to shape and peel off successive layers until the thickness is correct. Beats having to cut shims until all is correct.

Is this material made anymore?

Thanks,

Andrew

I have not had much luck with oil guns in the past, they seem to leak just about anywhere but in the nipple to which they are applied!

Can anyone recommend an oil gun that actually works, I need one for my ML7 lathe.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello Jeff,

The welding went very easily and seems to be well strong enough for the job, I am afraid the finished item isn't very pretty, difficult to get a file into the places that need most fettling! It didn't do the chrome finish on the wheel a lot of good either! Apart from those two downsides, I can recommend the use of bronze welding for CI. As I said before,. another of my fixed ideas going down the drain.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Andrew.

I am pretty sure that the Hardinge Collets MA99E are well and truly obsolete, so don't expect them in the Hardinge offerings, if indeed Hardinge are still in toolmaking, in these Asian dominated times!

Andrew.

Thanks everyone, so far the Ebay lead turned up something entitled ML7 tailstock handwheel, but it most certainly wasn't one from the picture that was there!

Hello Swarf! I did read the email from you (It was your well written profile!) I did reply. Is there another PM from you? If so it hasn't arrived yet!

Thanks again everyone,

Andrew.

P.S. I am off to try Sif Bronze "welding" on the beast!

My goodness! I seem to have started something here! I calculated as many thread pitch set ups as I could, on the basis of "if you can do it from first principles then at least you understand what is going on" much better than looking them up in a table!

I now have access to a Myford chart, so I am more than satisfied.

Thnks everyone,

Andrew.

Thanks Jeff for your time and trouble in outlining the technique required. It seems straightforward enough and I will give it a go in the morning!

So another one of my long held believes bites the dust!

Andrew.