Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Hello Michael,

I will take a look at the link, somewhat bothered about stepping on sore toes, please accept my apologies for not using the search engine. I really ought to get to grips with the search facility, although I seem to be having a problem, as I always seem to get other topics mixed with what I am looking for.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

I will soon have a shaping machine. A small version to replace my huge one which I gave away to a deserving cause.

Now I want to try my hand at gear cutting, I have the Myford kit required to do this on my ML7, when its protracted overhaul is complete.

Meanwhile I would like to try gear cutting on the shaper. I assume that I will need a profiled cutter to replicate the gaps between the teeth! Is this at all possible? Also what is the best method of indexing the blank? Not sure if I can somehow use my rotary table, although I don't know how one would do that!

I am curious to know if a shaper can be used for this task. I am sure that I have read about this, years ago, in an ancient engineering book.

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks Jason,

That makes a little more sense to me. Using the Myford collet chuck, if you screw the nose down, then the outer rim of the collet is snug against the nose. At this point, is the bore that stated on the collet? This is before you start to close down the collet. I suppose I really ought to go and measure this dimension, rather than asking here on the forum. Not so easy with the smaller bore collets that I want to modify. The only way I can think of is turning down a rod until it "just" fits.

Andrew.

Thanks Jason,

I understand the comment of using a boring tool instead of drilling and reaming, that makes sense! I know nothing about emergency collets, so I am unaware about packing the slots. Being simple minded on these matters, if you pack the slots and then bore to size, will this give the correct diameter, when used in anger with a rod of the nominal bored size? I can't quite get my head round the problem.

How much packing would be required and would the end results vary with the amount of packing used? I assume that the slots must be closed as viewed from the collet front face, before boring takes place? I am afraid I have a mental blackout when trying to figure this out!

Thank you,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 09/02/2017 17:43:54

I am missing a couple of sizes of Hardinge collets, that I would like to have. Not wanting to wait forever, for Ebay to produce them. I thought that maybe I could rework a couple of duplicate collets that I have.

So, simple mind says, put collet into Myford collet chuck, drill out just undersize to diameter required and then ream the hole to size. So what can go wrong? I suppose the steel could be hardened and hence difficult to drill and ream. Maybe the reamed hole could be a bit oversize and then it would not hold the specified diameter?

Is the idea practical or are there any other things that could mean it is a non starter?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 09/02/2017 16:27:34

Hello,

Pretty obvious that hardening should be done before regrinding. But I don't understand the comment that "so he is already undersize". This bed has never been reground, so I expect it could be hardened prior to regrinding, Or is the likely distortion will be so great that the "maximum permitted regrind" will be exceeded?

As a pure matter of interest, is there any figure for the maximum that can be taken off before the bed is scrap? I have seen an ML7 bed that has a large depression due to rusting, although the rest of the bed is rust free. The depression must be around 75 thou at the deepest. The owner is considering recycling it in the near future, seems a pity, but there you go!

Regards,

Andrew.

I was visiting an old friend the other day. he had just purchased a Myford Super 7, which he wants to overhaul. Bed wear was grim and I suggested he moved it on very quickly!

Despite my suggestion, he wants to get the bed reground and preferably hardened. Since Myford's demise, I would not have a clue where to get such work done and neither has he. So has anyone any suggestions and likely costs involved?

Andrew.

Thanks everyone,

As usual I was way behind on working out how to do this job. Lots of useful information and I now know what a radius milling cutter is. Now if I had been thinking router, then the penny would have tumbled!

Thanks again everyone.

Regards,

Andrew.

Hello Kwil,

I am afraid that I don't understand your description. Not too well up with engineering terminology. What is a radius milling cutter? I am only really familiar with ordinary milling cutters and specials for cutting say a woodruff key slot.

Come to think, is a radius cutter one that has a curved cutting edge at the bottom of the cutter?

A description of a radius milling cutter may help me out here!

Thanks,

Andrew.

P.S. Thanks George, I did in fact use my bench grinder to get the rough stuff off. A big help as my muscle wasting disease and heavy filing don't go together too well!

Hello,

I have been making a repair piece for a large Victorian church key, A slitting saw worked wonders for the tumbler slots. I now have to make a round profile to the edge of the key. I was going to take a file to do the job, when I started thinking ......... how would you do such a job using machine tools, either lathe or mill?

Is there a simpler way than using a milling cutter in the mill chuck and having the plate mounted vertically on a rotary table? It just seems to be a lot of kit to do what looks like a simple job!

My interest is theoretical and the file is about to be used!

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks Swarf!

Just what I needed! Yes a 1 metre length of leadscrew is on its way. So, including new bushes, it will have cost me under £100.

Hello Jason, bottom of the holder already measured and factored in! The base to centre line height is 0.666" and thickness of the bottom of the Dickson holder is 0.230". This will give me a maximum tool size of 0.434" or just a touch over 11mm.

With the same type of Dickson tool holder, I can only just squeeze in an 8 x 8mm tool on my ML10!

Thanks everyone,

Andrew.

Can anyone tell me the height from the top slide tool post area to the lathe centre line on an ML7?

My ML7 is in bits and I want to know what is the maximum tool size I can get into a Dickson type toolholder, hence I need to know the above dimension.

Many Thanks,

Andrew.

No one seems to have taken the point that you cannot see what the greasing level is in the ML10 bearings. So it makes sense to let the grease come out, at least you know the amount you have got in there!

As to good old British tradition of letting grease out to purge the lubricant in the bearings. Sounds a damn good idea to me. My friends big Chinese lathe has far worse system than that!

Andrew.

Thanks guys,

Seems as if butchering later gears sets isn't the way to go! I won't be starting on this project for a while, so I will keep my eyes open for spare change wheels or get versed in the art of hobbing gears!

The set of modern change wheels may be useful to someone. If only I could identify what lathe they came off.

Regards,

Andrew.

Just sitting back and looking at some future projects, one of which is restoring a round bed Drummond lathe. Someone has fitted what looks like a Myford style 3 groove pulley, so all I need do is make up a motor mount and countershaft.

The lathe is in surprisingly good condition and looks to be a relatively easy restoration project. Even better, as I may be able to get a cast iron period stand.

Now for the nasty bit. It doesn't have any change wheels, except for the gear train that is on it at the moment, usual problem with old lathes!

I have a choice of making the extra change wheels, although I have never done anything like this before, but I do have the gear to do it. The other alternative is to use an existing comprehensive collection of modern change wheels that I have, probably off a Colchester. The bores are larger and I would probably have to make a larger change wheel bracket and spigots.

What would your advice be on these alternatives?

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 29/01/2017 16:19:53

Thank you David!

That seems to explain what I have seen with lithium grease. Thank goodness there is a rational explanation for the phenomena!

Clive,

That will put the cat amongst the pigeons! So the manufacturers seem to care not how much the lathe is used in a 6 month period! Also they don't seem to mind if the grease oozes out.

Maybe the answer is that it doesn't really matter what you do as long as you occasionally remember to grease the little perishers. But stop when you see movement, otherwise you get a very greasy belt! Come to think, maybe I should read the manufacturers handbook, no excuse here as I do have it!

As to the front bearing, God only knows how you see grease oozing out of that one, as it is completely shrouded from prying eyes!

Thanks all for an interesting discussion, at least I now know why you get the liquid formation in the lithium grease.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

There you go! I still need some education on how best to use Google! My memory is not as good as it was (the kids think I am in the first stages of dementia!). Kingston rings a bell, I do believe it was the company that I looked at 30 years ago!

Thanks for the Google education,

Many Thanks,

Andrew.

Amen to that Michael!

I seem to be monopolising the beginners section of the forum. So please don't think I am trolling! I hope I have not rustled any ones feathers in these exchanges.

When one is working alone it is always difficult to get the right answers to sometimes simple questions. I have a friend that has lots of big kit, but he thinks I am a machining oracle!!!!!!!

I just want to say a HUGE THANK YOU, to everyone that has responded to my sometimes asinine questions. Your responses have helped me considerably and I am truly grateful to everyone!

THANKS,

Andrew.

Hello Ian,

"Myfords" 5/8" lead screw is for theML7 with a gearbox. My ML7 is the one with change wheels Correct me if I am wrong, but the Myford one will not fit my lathe?

Nick that is a smart idea, I didn't realise that it could be done. I shall take a close look and see if I can sort out what needs to be done.

Dennis, that was exactly what I was on the lookout for. When I Googled lead screw manufacturers, I came up with loads of people doing small lead screws for CNC work (I presume). Can you give me a lead to a supplier of ACME threaded bar.My pal has a large Chinese lathe , so machining it up should be no problem.

Thanks everyone! Hope is restored!

Regards,

Andrew.