Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Just thought that Tower hobbies in the US may have one. Just looked and the part seems to be 46105000. It is $61 and by the time you have added customs and PO charges, it would probably be around $100 They say limited qty available, so don't hang about.

Also try the Ripmax website in the UK. It is amazing what they have! You will need to order thro' a hobby shop, but worth looking.

Andrew

Whoops I should have realised that a con rod for a twin is a different animal and will mean a split big end. So much more complicated than I realised.

Apologies,

Andrew.

P.S. A guy in the US who goes by the Ebay name of Shatterman. Does lots of spares for Enya and OS engines. He has lots more stock than appears on the Bay and is well worth contacting, he is a good guy and helpful with it!

Andrew.

Hello Mick,

If you buy the material (someone is sure to know the aluminium spec), then all you need is a drill with a couple of drill bits of the correct size, plus file and some emery cloth.

I have made con rods for quite a few engines, before I eventually got kitted out with machinery. I used an electric drill in a cheap Aldi drill stand for the drilling. Oh! you need a good rule and some patience too!

Before anyone tut-tuts at this. The relevant con rods have lasted to this day and some have had very hard use in combat planes. Making con rods that work well, is easy, with very simple tools. One gentleman who repaired engines had a swaging method to reduce the worn hole diameter and then simply redrilled the hole to size!

The bigger the engine, the easier it becomes as the measuring need not be so accurate. Now to dive into my bunker as the howls of the purists are heard

Andrew.

Hello Both,

Yes I am on the correct site and indeed there are some M type screwcutting comments, all of which are fine. What I am having difficulty with is getting anymore than the last 20 contributions or so. To be much good I would expect at least a search facility and or access to an archive. I can see the tab for an archive but cannot open it.

It almost looks as though I am not a member, but I have gone through the registration process, so I can't see what else I can do. The whole site seems very messy without any intuitive process to it. I am a member of another Yahoo hosted site and that is easy enough to navigate and understand. I must be missing something on the Drummond site!

I would like to have a look at back gears for the Drummond round bed (another long term restoration!). I know there is a lot of info on the lathes UK site, but I was hoping someone had made a back gear and could provide a crib to get me started!

Andrew.

I have tried to get onto the Yahoo Drummond Website on several occasion. Nothing makes a lot of sense and the odd thing I do manage to find, contains pretty brainless comments. Now I am sure there is a lot of very good information there, but exactly how does one access it? I am sure I have gone through the correct joining procedure more than once, but I can't make much sense of what is on the website.

Andrew.

Maybe you just need a new grease nipple?

Andrew

Whoops, please ignore the above post, I didn't think my first post had got though to the forum, hence the second post above!

Bt Openreach has been messing about with the underground cables in the village. They cut me off this morning, both phone and internet. When it came back my machine is now running superfast, maybe the problem was in the cabling? , we shall see.

Yes I always tick the box and it does remember me!

Andrew.

I can log into the forum and then leave the machine for say 30 minutes, when I comeback to the computer I have to log in again!

I have been able to log into the forum and not even log in again for maybe a couple of weeks! I usually put the forum up into a window and just leave it there. I then put the computer into sleep mode overnight, next morning I was still logged in and so on.

This log in problem started about a week ago. Anyone else suffer from this perpetual logging in problem? It is very irritating!

Andrew.

Edited By JasonB on 17/07/2017 13:56:58

I am finding that I have to log in again every time I use the forum, even if I have the forum up on my computer all day! This has only just happened in the last couple of days. Usually I could stay logged in for days at a time. This with the forum as one of my screens and using sleep mode overnight. Has anything changed? Or has my computer developed some different habits?

To be quite clear, I can log in during the morning, keep the forum as one of my screens and the next time I call up that screen, I have to log in again, if I want to use messaging, ask a question or just simply reply to a topic. It is quite irritating!

Regards,

Andrew.

Well, that may be so, there is good and bad in everything. However all the powder coatings that I have seen are rubbish, so make sure you go to a reputable powder coater !

Andrew.

Hello Hopper

Thanks for your time in setting out the answers to my queries. No wonder people are coy in defining the diameters of pulleys. Seems that standardisation isn't the manufacturers strong point!

Regards,

Andrew.

Hello Both!

I don't think the bushes are olite, they appear to be simple plain bearings of what looks like brass or bronze, certainly not got the honey comb appearance of an olite bush. Anyway, too late, I have drilled through them! A good job I had it apart and cleared out the grease in the bearings! Otherwise I would never have spotted the cock up!

Thanks for the link Keith. I did try Googling, but nowhere could I find the definition of size for a pulley! I must have waded through a lot of sites which simply repeated the fact it wasn't OD or base diameter. Very frustrating!

Thanks both,

Andrew.

Just a thought or two on LED lighting. I spent some time in the lighting industry and also did development work on LEDs at the beginning (40 odd years ago).

The one thing that some LED manufacturers don't tell you, is that the quoted lifetime of LED lighting refers to the lifetime of individual LEDs tested as individual units.

Now LED lifetime is critically dependent on temperature, so if you have LEDs in a group. Then the local temperature rises and down goes the LED life.

For example if you have an LED replacement bulb (like the old household lamp) and you put this in say a lamp shade that has no means of convection, then the bulb life is critically compromised. I have such reflectors and major brand LED light bulbs do no better than 1000 hours lifetime.

I have changed over to LED lighting and would not go back to GLS or compact fluorescent lamps. But beware of the smooth sales talk of the lighting manufacturers. You MUST keep the local temperature down otherwise the lifetimes are much reduced.

Andrew.

I am just about to motorise my 30 year old (NIB!) linisher. Interesting that the lubrication holes for the bushes had not been drilled though!

However my problem is that there is a pulley on the driven roller. Now it is the same size as the belts used on the Myford, so what size belt am I looking at?

Second problem is that I need to put a pulley on the electric motor and arrange for the size of the pulley to give me the correct gearing. So that I get the belt speed correct.

Now I know that the nominal pulley size is not the OD of the pulley, neither is it the diameter of the bottom of the pulley groove. It is somewhere in between. People seem to be very coy about what the diameter of a pulley is. So how do you measure this diameter.

I appear to have, what I would guess to be a 1" pulley on the driven roller. This from past experience of sizes. I know it isn't vastly important to get the belt speed dead on the recommended speed, but it would be good to get it some where near!

As a matter of interest how would you define the belt size required for two pulleys a given distance apart, assuming you knew the "nominal" sizes of the pulleys? It isn't too important as I have long slotted holes for the motor mount, but I would like to know the methodology behind that calculation.

Apologies for my ramblings, for what is basically a simple question.

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks everyone.

Strangely enough none of the suggestions is the company that I found (and then lost!). However the suggestions will certainly source my needs.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

I thought I had bookmarked this web site, but it isn't in my list! So can anyone tell me who this company is? They supply a load of other hard to get bits and pieces as well as knobs and handles.

Thanks,

Andrew.

My advice is to avoid powder coating like the plague! It is great until you manage to damage the coating through to the base material. If it is steel, then rusts creeps underneath the coating and spreads like wild fire. The amount of powder coatings I have had to strip and repaint properly,runs into many hours of work. It has now got to the stage where I will not buy items that are powder coated and that is an awful lot of stuff!

Andrew.

I too would like to see a copy of the "improvement" article, maybe someone smarter than me, has a nifty idea that would improve the table stability.

Regards,

Andrew.

I have done hard chrome plating for model aircraft engine use. I suspect you might need hard chrome on your wheels, decorative chrome probably won't cut the mustard.

What I can say, is that it is a b***s aching job to set up and tune in the process. Anyone contemplating doing this for home use, must be mad. It uses lots of nasty chemicals and there is a disposal problem and it isn't good for your health, unless you take stringent precautions. Just don't even think of doing it, I did, because I am an awkward old bastard, but I regret all the effort I put into the job. It also cost me a fair amount of cash and time

Advertise for some good handles or keep an eye on Ebay. Buying good second hand, at even inflated prices will make sense. I doubt if you will find any chrome plating works that will take on one off jobs and even if you do, you will pay very high prices.

Andrew

The snag with a bottle jack is that the smallest one I have is 6" high and that really does limit the throat depth! My bodge of using a second collar on the vertical round column beneath the table and having a strut from that, to the outer part of the table. My cast in strengthening ribs were big enough to attach the struts to, by simply drilling a hole and using nuts and bolts!

The results were good and much less deflection than before, but same as the jack idea it limits the available throat depth. I was thinking of swopping out the column for a longer version, but I only paid £30 for the drill, in a closing down sale at Focus and I don't think it is worthwhile!

Andrew.