Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Hello Chuffer,

They have arrived in London after "doing" Ireland. They will be with me Wednesday or Thursday, so I will pass on your query. Best perhaps if I "introduce" them to you via email, that way you can pick their brains! My friend is a model aircraft enthusiast, so a modeller too in a different way!

Andrew.

Hello Chris,

There are plenty of small 4 jaw chucks around, but you will be lucky to find one that will fit your lathe. You will need to make up a backplate and then fit a 4 jaw chuck to it. Not too difficult, apart from cutting the internal thread to match the lathe.

Andrew.

My two 'pennorth worth is that it isn't all that easy to get a super finish with carbide tools. Good, yes , but not excellent. I have tried experimenting and following a few tips given on this forum. The results have been a bit disappointing.

In my humble opinion, you cannot beat a round nose HSS tool that has been properly ground and then honed. I can take sub thou finishing cuts with these and the "swarf" is more like cast iron powder. The finish is almost mirror like on most steels.

I am not trying to be provocative and am always willing to learn, maybe you can get such a good finish with a carbide insert, always willing to try again!

Andrew.

Thank goodness I was not the only one who could not understand the Cradley Heath dialect. I believe that a lot of it was in fact old English, according to a Birmingham University philologist who published at least one paper on the dialect.

A common phrase for someone from Cradley Heath was "Strong in the arm and weak in the head". I think this was because the community was rather enclosed and probably interbred. Quite why this was so, is a bit of a mystery, but it would explain the incomprehensible dialect!

I too lived in Smethwick, so I am amazed that I never heard the term "scunt". Maybe something to do with me going to grammar school and "lernin' to talk and spel proper!".

Apologies to anyone hailing from Cradley Heath. No disrespect to you, just quoyting some widely held views from the Black Country!

Strange, but I can no longer do a proper Black Country accent. However I can do a Birmingham accent, which is very different. I am rather sad that my native dialect and accent elude me. I do like the regional differences in speech and am somewhat ashamed that I now speak BBC English.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 17/09/2017 12:53:26

Friends of mine live in Oregon and they usually fly to Seattle and get a flight from there to the UK. I think Seattle is a nicer airport than San Francisco! Depends what you want to see other than the railway.

Most people want to "do" san Francisco or maybe the Grand Canyon. Yosemite National Park, if you go SFX. Seattle down to Oregon has just stunning scenery. If you are not up to long drives (just put it on cruise control and that should be it!). If long drives are not your thing, then get a "local" flight from either to the nearest airport.

Andrew.

P.S. My friends are arriving in a few days, so I will ask them what they would do!

I don't have collets that big Vic!

Andrew.

Some of the batch of large drills that I purchased have been turned down on the shank. The turning is very rough and I would like to give the shanks a decent skim to get things right. These shanks are seriously rough, such that I doubt that a small fraction of the total area of the jaws of a large drill chuck will be in contact with the turned down shanks! Some of them are indeed running out of true anyway.

So is this a 4 jaw job and clocking it up to run true before skimming. Sounds like a self answering question, but I usually make some incorrect assumptions. So before I go ahead, can someone confirm this is the correct procedure?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello Ian,

Some of the drills have indeed been turned down, but a god awful finish, looks more like tramlines! I would not mind skimming them to get a decent surface for the chuck to grip! So how did you turn down your drills and keep concentricity? Clock it up in a 4 jaw?

Andrew.

£150 delivered is definitely in the hmm area. Having said that, although it looks tatty and forlorn, it can probably be turned into a decent machine. It depends on the motor and return spring, quill etc. I would check it over first before parting with my cash.

Andrew.

Now that is interesting. Do you know where I can look up details of wiper seals, I have never heard of them!

Thanks,

Andrew.

Strangely enough, these jacks appear to be very well made. I am sure they would last a very long time if it were not for the nasty plastic "piston". Maybe Ady is correct and it is a built in fail device to prevent overloading!!!!!!!!! Thanks Nige for the reference on O rings. That will come in handy. I used to make and assemble high vacuum equipment.

So I know a bit about o rings, but not for hydraulic application. I would have gone blithely along and sized everything for high vacuum application. Glad you put me right!

Thanks everyone!

Andrew.

Now that is what I call an Aladdin's cave!

Andrew.

Thanks everyone. I was a bit wary of "sanding" or filing down any raised portion, but I suppose that as long as one is fairly gentle then the raised portions would be easy to get rid of without compromising the taper unduly.

I am not in the least bothered about the dents, it is the raised portion surrounding the dents that bothered me!

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Strange I never heard the expression scunt. However I lived about 3 miles from Cradley Heath and I could not understand the locals there!

Andrew.

Drill undersize, bore and ream is the answer. Another way is to start the hole with the drill and then use a D bit. It is a pain, as you need to clear swarf far more frequently than with a drill, but it will get you a straight hole.

Andrew.

I purchased a large quantity of Morse taper drills, for a modest sum. The drill sections are all fine, even sharp!

However, some of the MTs have had a hard life and have the usual dents and dings on them. Having cleaned up my MT sockets on the lathe, I am loathe to use some of the worst offending drills in them.

Can I simply put them in a three jaw chuck and set up the top slide with a DTI and get the correct angle (obviously on a good example!). Then I could take the merest smidgen of a cut to remove anything that rises above the MT taper surface? I don't intend to do anything but clean up the high spots.

It sounds fine to me, so what have I missed, nothing seems to be as simple as it appears!

Andrew.

Thanks gentlemen, very good advice! A couple of bronze "pistons" would probably cost quite a bit. Maybe Brass could be used.

I am aware of the likely problem with sealing the area where the nut holds down the Nylon /ptfe "piston. I have not yet had this apart to see how it is done on the original "piston" I suspect it isn't a smart solution. So maybe I need to put on the thinking cap, but not a huge problem I suspect.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Hello Anthony,

I am in Rutland and my idiot pal is in Stamford Lincs!

Andrew.

I would certainly do that, but no one has spares for these jacks, I think they are regarded as a throw away item!

I was considering using a high quality Viton O ring in a metal version of the PTFE / Nylon "piston" As for safety, I expect such a set up would be safer than the original seal!

Andrew

Thanks guys. I have probably 3 or 4 days to sort out the problem. My Pal is a PLONKER, just why he did the tapping, I do not know. There is a shop within a 1/4 mile of him that sells BSF bolts. The capacitors are Maxwells, very high voltage and eye wateringly expensive. To do one broken tap in a totally misguided enterprise is very bad, but to do it twice, well I dare not type what I called him!

I am sure I can rectify the problem in the available time. This is for the dread Tesla machine mentioned in another thread. I have repaired the damage to the secondary and it is due to be demonstrated at Crossness (Sp?) pumping station a week on Saturday. The Maxwells have to be mounted within the machine and coupled up with bus bar copper after the taps have been removed!

Thanks everyone for their help. Looks as if alum and or a 4mm carbide slot drill or two may sort things out!

Andrew.