Member postings for Wokauk

I would like to make a large clock wheel. I havent started yet. I have an ML7 and a vertical mill An Arboga. I have an BS01 dividibg head with a 3 jaw chuck attached.

I will make the blank on the Myford, however if I transfer the blank across to the chuck to ghe dividing head I will loose concentricity. Is this a problem.? Do I need a milling set up on the Myford and a compatible diving system? Thanks, Roger.

Thanks for all your responses, I shall look out for a 0.75 motor.

Can swap for 2 x 0.25 hp motors!

I have purchased a Myford Speed 10, it look like it hasn't been used much condition. The motor attached is 0.25 HP. It is operated only a plugging it in. No switches. Not want to use the lathe like that I checked that it worked and have fitted a cheap NVR switch. This works fine.

On operating the lathe at it highest gear - 2000 rpm the motor failed to to get up to speed and started to smoke.

I have an old Hoover motor also of 0.25 HP. I which I have never used but it seems to work. I fitted that and found that it tripped out before getting up to speed. I am thinking that 0.25 HP is too small to pull such a high gear. Does anyone know what size motor should be fitted?

(There doesn't seem any untoward resistance in the counter shaft or head of the lathe. I haven't cut any metal with it yet and the screw banjo is not engaged). Thanks, Roger

Thanks for the info, I took the quill out to check the bearing. The nut was tight and locked in place with a tab washer. I couldn't detect any play between the quill and the inner shaft. The play seems to between the rack and the pinion.

Does your diagram show how the pinion is fitted to the shaft, or is it one piece?

Thanks

I wouldnt dare to a try a 4mm depth of cut with my set up. I applied a cut of 0.25mm using a 12mm four flute end mill at 890rpm. There is up and down play in the quill of about 0.25mm. There does not seem to be any easy adjustment in I assume the rack. It seems quite easy to overcome the quill lock.

Thanks for replies.

I have rescued an arboga em825 from scrap. There are probably good reasons why it was scrapped which I am about to find but I have have got it going. It came without tooling but I machined a groove in a cheap ER32collet chuck and made a c washer to fit into a threaded collar. This is instead of a drawbar.

I have now made a few trial cuts on some mild steel and have some observations. The depth of cut is set by a fine adjust on the quill feed (the Arboga is a mill/Drill). There is also a clamp lock on the quill. I did my first cuts with the clamp on. After a cut I released the clamp and noticed that the quill dropped. I think that my milling cut overcame the clamp and took out back lash in the quill rack. Am I in error to use the clamp lock when milling? This 10''' cut was my first time milling anything, though I have done little bit of turning.

Thankyou

I decided that that there was slight play in the headstock bearings, strangely not at the chuck? Took the bearing cap off to reveal a combination of the laminated shim and other bits of packing. One side had 5 thou more than the other. Why would this be?

I packed up the caps in 5 thou invetervals until it was too loose (25 thou). Replaced one of the 5 thou shime with a 1 thou shim and I got a nice fit with no play. Both sides at 21 thou total. Does this seem a normal figure?

think ishould check out the other bearing, but I cannot detect any play in that.

I checked the run out on the chuck register it is it is half a thou TIR.

My cutting has improved unsing the same tool and piece of bar, it took a 15 thou cut at 4 inch from chuck without too much complaint. Crap finish though. 5 thou gave a nice finish.

I am pleased with the progress so far but should I expect better cutting performance than this? Or can I now look at the bed alignment?

I suspect that the lathe will still cut a taper, but I haven't checked yet.

Thanks for advice so far, it is much appreciated. It so difficult to distinguish between my lack of ability and problems with my tools, there is a saying about that..............

Regards,

Wokauk

Thanks for advice off everyone, I shall try the knitting needles.

I am In Malvern, Worcestershire.

I am sure I have the the correct tool height. Tool sharp, I don't really have the experience to know if it is or not, I am pretty sure it would cut me!

There does not seem any obvious play anywhere, but I will check again.

Seems like I should solve this cutting problem before I even think of tackling the taper.

I am away this weekend, so cannot get into the garage to play.

Thanks again,

Woka.

Have read sites on the web about setting up a lathe.

I seem to have failed at the first hurdle.

My lathe does not cut parrallel, it cuts a taper 8 thou mm in diameter difference over 4" mm. The smaller diameter at the chuck end. This taper was cut using the tail stock.

The sites I have looked at suggest that I put a 1" bar in the chuck and turn two collars approx 8" and compare the difference in diameters. I have a length of 7/8th dia 10" long. that I thought I could use. (mild steel)

Trouble is I cannot cut it, I just get awfull vibration regardless of the tool I use or the revs or the depth of cut I tryed 1 thou awful, briefly tried 5 thou hit the emergency stop in fear due to noise. Is it expecting too much of an ML7 to cut something like this? With the support from the tail stock it cuts lovely, but you should do this exercise without the tail stock?

This ML7 is I suspect well worn, so ultimatly I suspect the taper is due to bed wear, however I would like to find out for certain by setting the lathe up properly to start with.

The lathe is mounted on a very solid solid bench (though wood). I have made some mounting blocks and have levelled the lathe as best as I can using a buliders 2ft level.

I was hoping to get the two machined collars the same by altering the heights on the mounting blocks to compensate but as I can't machine the collars..........

Getting hold of the 10 inch bar when secured in the chuck and heaving on it does not highlight any play in the head stock.

To me a total beginner machining something with an 8" overhang would seem too much for my small lathe.

Any thoughts.

Thanks for the the advice so far, It is indeed for a Stirling engine. I received the plans from Jan Ridders. I have made a few of the components (and botched as many) so far. This one looks a bit beyond my limited skills/experience, but that's OK, I have the time.

I appreciate you all giving me the benefit of your knowledge.

Thanks again,

Wokauk

I am tryig to make the component in the photo, any thoughts on what tooling and methods?

Thanks,

Woka

You are are correct, have just returned from garage, suddenly having the thought that I wasn't looking for a bush but a spigot that attached to the top slide, so removed the cross slide and tapped the centre with a hammer / punch to see if it moved, it did. The was sufficient room to knock it out. I then tapped it back into the top slide. Was too easy to tap into the top slide which is why it fell out, but will work for now.

My lathe experience consists (apart from wiring the thing up) the manufacture of a mandrel which I then used to fit replacement bushes to the counter shaft, looking forward to making a replacement pivot for the top slide now.............

Thanks everyone.

Woka

Thanks for reply, I would have thought that aswell, however the central boss is not upstanding but at about half inch in diameter it is the same as the hole in the top slide, I suspect there is no space for a bush.

Cheers,

Woka

Atatched is a photo of the compound slide of my ML7, which I am only just learning to operate.... To set the top slide to an angle I loosened the two locking nuts and twisted the slide around to the disired angle, as depicted on the graduations and mark. However all it does is twist around the locking bolts, which as they are free to move along the tee slots and have lots of play in them means the setting is pretty meaningless.

I would expect that there should be some method to locate the pivot point, the photo shows central pivot holes however my arrangement doesn't have a central pivot bush,

I suspect that I have something missing, probably some sort of bush, or I am missing something in my method?

Thanks,

Woka

Les,

The motor did have the terminals bridged, removed them and then hey presto - it works.

Now to turn something, actually I need to bolt the lathe to the bench now and check that it is level........

Thanks

Wokauk

Thanks for all the advice and information.

I wired up my motor to my push buttons using a contactor and found that when put into reverse it blows the fuse. I don't think I have wired up the button or the motor incorrectly (however not imune to cocking it up).

Having found nothing wrong with my wiring I tried the following, direct from the mains to the motor.

Live to bridged A1/Z1 neutral to bridged A2/Z2 = motor spins clockwize

Live to bridged A1/Z2 neutral to brided A2/Z1 = fuze blows, I would expect anti clockwize rotation if all well?

I measured the the resistace across the terminals,

Z1 to Z2 is 3.6 ohm

A1 to A2 is 3.8 ohm

Z1 to A1 is 0.3 ohm

Z2 to A2 is 0.3 ohm

I am happy to use the motor in forwards only, sounds like I don't need reverse but is the motor running with reduced power.?

Thanks again,

Wokauk

Edited By Wokauk on 09/09/2012 22:12:18

The wiring on my Myford ML7 consists of a household plug, when you plug it the motor turns. It isn't even earthed. The motor has 4 terminals and no obvious capacitors.

Three swiches came with the lathe which are not connected. A start, a stop and lockable forward reverse.

A few questions,

1) Should the motor have a capacitor, if so what specification?

2) The stop and start switches are momentary switches, so to use I would need a contactor of some description. Any advise over which contactor to get?

3) Should I junk that idea and get a Dewhurst switch?

4) Is running the lathe in reverse useful?

Thanks,

Wokaik

I have just purchased a well used ML7 which has come with 4 chucks, 2 chucks are 4 jaw. Both these chucks have cracks at the corners of the chuck key sockets. Can you get replacement worm drives?

One chuck is a 4" Burnerd on which the worm drives are easy to remove, but the worm drive seems captive on the 6" Prat.

Both chucks are functional as is but I don't like the idea of bits flying off.

Any thoughts or advice. Thanks Wokauk