Member postings for Paul Barter

Thanks to you all for taking the trouble to respond, I will continue to follow up.

regards Paul

Hello all, I recently aquired a nice dial gauge made by British Indicators Ltd and labelled John Bull. It seems good free moving , but the crystal has been smashed. Does anyone know where I can obtain a new 52mm /2" domed crystal please. I have tried to make a new one from 1mm perspex but it needs the dome to clear the spindle fixing the main hand.. I have tried an internet search but no joy so far. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Hi I fitted one of these to my ML4 which has a 7/16 dia toolpost stud, all that was necessary was to bore the diameter of the centre of the toolpost to fit the slightly large stud. It is hard, but chinese hard! so even the weedy ML4 coped with a carbide tipped boring bar.This only require the removal of about 20 thou and seems to have had no effect on the improved rigidity and general ease of use over the original jack stud, shims and relying only on the stiffness of the stud to resist cutting forces.

I hope this is useful to you

regards Paul

Congratulations Nick, looks like a a very nice and useable setup, you may however wish to protect your motor from the ingress of swarf which could let out the magic smoke. Your motor seems have openings which will allow such intrusion but need to be open to allow heat dissipation. Found this out the hard way and now use TEFC motors.These are totally enclosed and use a fan for forced cooling via fins on the outside of the motor.

regards Paul

Hi Andrew T

his sounds like the lubricant specified for the gear drive on a Skil worm drive saw. It is expensive and apparently it is used to handle the loads imposed by the helical drive, but EP90 seems to be an adequate substitute so far!

Thank you very much Nick, the link worked perfectly and I shall enjoy reading all of it. The penny has dropped! I doubt that I will ever use these as intended but they were too interesting to be left at the car boot! In any event I now have a set of standards up to 12Inches

Thanks Paul

Thanks to you both or the swift response, the rods are not adjustable and were measured with Mitutoyo micrometers set to to slip gauges so I am surprised at the consistency of the apparent error. also the rods marked 8 and 4 inch are also duplicated. A Jig boring machine is beyond my skill set, but how would these be used please Nick? is 3.5/8 of particular significance and why two?

Thanks again to you both Paul

Just to add to my post the two adjustable heads measure 3.625 when set to zero on the barrels were these for some very particular measuring process like go no go gauges?

Thanks again for any suggestions Paul

Hello all, Back again to acess the knowledge

These rods are marked with sizes, yet the tduplicate wo inch and one inch are consistently two thou over ie 1.002 and 2.002.The two micrometer heads have domed ends and are graduated for tenths.The rods have flat ends on truncated cones.Can anyone identify the name and use of these please?

Thanks paul

Hi Joseph, Just to clarify, the drills I suggested are hollow steel tubes of the approximate desired hole diameter,with diamond grit embedded in the cutting end,
they grind their way through, thus cutting force is very low and no radial pressure as either the cutting action of a twist drill. However no self extraction of grinding debris, so peck and squirt with water for cooling and debris flushing is the way to go.
You could possibly fit the item in a lathe Chuck and drill from the tail stock, as the forces involved are low, you can use a gentle grip in the chuck, but protect your lathe bed from the water and grit!

regards Paul

How about the cheap hollow diamond drills sold to drill ceramic tiles. These are readily available in various diameters from tile suppliers or the sheds, be prepared to queue!

I hope this helps
Paul

Hi Andy, Thank you for your post, just what I need, so no burnt fingers just yet

regards Paul

Thanks for the link Martin, not encouraging reading! I need to practice freehand sharpening,for tool bits as well!

regards Paul

Hello all, I have used the Picador drill sharpening jig, but it is a time consuming activity. I thought that the Eclipse 39 jig would be a better bet for a minor restoration of a failing edge. My problem is that the one I bought did not come with instructions and it is not clear to me how to set drills for correct angles, can anyone give me some idea as to how correctly install drills for sharpening,or tell me where I may obtain a user guide? Google has failed me so far.

Thanks for any information Paul Barter

Hello Graham

Thank you very much for your swift revelation! My fledgling store of understanding creeps on!

I am much obliged to you

hello all Please can anyone identify this tool and its purpose. It is only marked "Made in Western Germany" so post ww2 and pre unification.The slot visible at the trop is only cut in on handle and does not open or close.The knurled screw with the spring attached adjust how close the handles may be squeezed together,the shiny piece attached to the spring has divisions marked but only a solitary number 5.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed light on this for me.

regards Paul

Thanks Bazyle, for your clear explanation of this behaviour. I am most grateful once more for the willingness of forum members to share their hard won learning.

best regards Paul Barter

Hello all

I ask more experienced machinists to throw some light on why when fly cutting a piece of aluminium, albeit in a vertical slide on my ML4, using a honed sharp tool steel cutter at the poor old girls top speed. I found a pronounced burr on the "exit" sides when using WD40 as a cutting fluid, yet with the same set up and depth of cut /manual feed speed (slow) with no cutting fluid, razor edges all round with no apparent burr. In both operations the surface finish was good with similar faint regular machining marks. This activity was prompted by Ades workshop and his nice new mill, but only to satisfy my curiosity, I will not be tendering for any defence contracts.

Thanks in advance to anyone who has any ideas as to what is causing this apparent contradiction.

stay well all

Paul Barter

Edited By Paul Barter on 10/04/2020 15:47:37

Sounds like a dud bearing, damaged ball or balls skidding rather than rotating.This may only be happening when the motor has run at full speed for a few seconds and a lack of lubrication and or roundness starts the music.

Paul

Hi the cable you need is usually referred to as SY as emgee says use four core three for the phases one for earth connection on the motor case to earth connection on the vfd, the braided sleeve should then be connected to earth at on end only to provide shielding, you will need to buy this from an electrical wholesaler rather than one of the sheds. eBay has some at enhanced rates! Eg Rexel, city electrical factors etc uh

Paul