Member postings for FMES

We are DBS vetted Michael, I can't see any problem with my statement regarding vulnerable adults.

Whilst it is generally accepted that the Health and Safety Act is purely relevant in the working environment, it must be remembered that within English Law at least, each has a Duty of Care to his 'neighbour' and that the Tort of negligence can be applied if harm becomes them.

To actually invite youngsters into a risk laden environment without the necessary preparation and if need be third party indemnities is at very least foolhardy.

Not just the under eighteens but 'vulnerable adults' too.

As we deal with school leaver apprentices (sixteen plus) all staff have to be fully vetted before contact is permitted and this applies equally to the older apprentices (eighteen plus) that have special educational needs.

I wouldn't be too keen on opening them anyway seeing on how a specialist disposal route is required normally.

From the HSE website : Toner cartridges, liquid and paste, as well as colour toner – commonly found in printers, fax machines and photocopiers. These should be removed whole and intact so as to prevent the dispersal of toner and then stored in suitable labelled containers.

Not only your carpet but your lungs?

Yes, it helps us to know if you are near by and able to visit to help

The valve cuts off admission part way down the stroke and air cannot be used 'expansively' in the same way as steam.

I have a three cylinder marine engine that runs very jerkily on air but absolutely fine on steam.

Are you saying that you have loctited the bush to the bearing?

I can't see very well from your photo, but the norm would be for the screw to hold a bush (a silver bit) that runs in the connecting rod bearing (a brassy bit).

This screw should be tight to hold the bush and enable it to turn within the rod bearing.

To be sure, if you could undo the crank screw and do a closeup photo of the crank rod would help to see.

I just thought it looked like some of the grubby drawings I have, no problem here. Thanks Diane.

That doesn't sound right Brian, there has to be a reasonable clearance at each end of the stroke to enable the ports to be uncovered, and even with a small engine like this I would have expected a mm or so.

The only other clue you give is that the crank pin (nut) keeps coming loose, that shouldn't happen unless the fit is way too tight ( and that wouldn't help with clunks ).

I should have added how about the crosshead hitting the end of the slide? it looks pretty close even on the works photo.

If its none of the above the other area to look at is the valve and linkage.

As this is a pre-made kit all the machining should be spot on, and the 'play' you refer to could be 'Ineffective crank angle' i.e when the crank turns but the piston doesn't move much (TDC /BDC).

Any chance you could do a bit of video showing the problem so that people could make a better guess as to what is going on?

Crosshead hitting the piston rod gland nut?

Hi Brian,

You could also check that the index on the cylinder cover isn't too deep and hitting the piston at tdc, or that the piston itself isn't fractionally too thick (drawings aren't always right).

Lofty

Hi Paul,

I have an aero background, military rotary wing, mostly Chinooks 3rd/ 4th line servicing and major repairs.

My first loco was a Sweetpea in 5" gauge from Blackgates engineering. **LINK**

Straightforward to build (and hundreds have been) an excellent steamer and good pulling ability.

It's always worth joining a club.

Regards

Lofty

Not the same 'Windy' selling the Hobbymat on here is it?

Hi Del,

Car exhaust jointing compound works well.

This sort of thing **LINK**

Rather be insulted that have to do a trip to the local A & E with a neighbour who tried to remove a McPherson strut spring with only one compressor fitted.

He'll be wearing the scars for the rest of his life.

You carry on Bazyle, a reminder like that is a toolbox talk worth having.

I use a standard air tool oil 'Cengar' usually, its light and breaks into a fine mist and easy to wipe off.

Rik, that cerro is normally called 'Woods metal' and used for filling pipes to enable them to be bent easily, it melts in boiling water as a rule.

You melt it and pour it into a pipe, let it set, bend pipe and melt it out again.

It's still available **LINK**

John, this might be useful **LINK**