Tailstock Quill stuck
John Bromley | 12/12/2017 22:04:29 |
84 forum posts | I hope somebody can help, I was using the tailstock on the Colchester Triumph 2000 to do some deep hole drilling, I took the quill to full depth, it then became jammed up tight, very difficult to wind back in and out. I've taken the tailstock off of the lathe and tried to remove the quill from the tailstock body to give it a clean. I suspect some swarf has got in somewhere. Can somebody shed some light on how the quill is removed, what needs to be loosened first? Does the quill lock need to be removed? (this is tight too, even after removing the bolt on the under side) Does the quill pass through the front of the tailstock or out the back? I have removed the handwheel and the screw thrust plate, the quill is stuck tight I have tried tapping with a rawhide hammer it will move back and forth but is stopped by something This is holding up a job, so replies would be gratefully received. |
Brian G | 12/12/2017 22:32:11 |
912 forum posts 40 photos | I found a couple of parts lists online in case they are any help John. From the drawings it looks as if the the locking lever is held in by the the anti-rotation pad (57233) even after the screw is removed. Brian |
vintagengineer | 12/12/2017 22:32:18 |
![]() 469 forum posts 6 photos | Most quills come out the front. They have keyway in the bottom.. You might have to remove a grubscrew? Any pictures? |
Clive Foster | 12/12/2017 23:25:16 |
3630 forum posts 128 photos | A known issue on the machines. The tailstock unit rotation device is a short cylinder with a rectangular bar formed on the end fitting into a matching blind ended keyway on the underside of the tailstock quill. The quill locking lever pushes on the bottom of that cylinder forcing the key up against the quill to lock it. Cylinder and key are known for jamming up if not kept well oiled. If they do jam then you are in serious trouble. As I understand it once the stop screw has been removed you can manipulate the locking handle so it can be pulled out past the base of the cylinder. Something over 90° of movement in the unlocking direction I think. Then its just a matter of getting that key to come down. Possibly driving back and forth a few times might get it to drop just enough for a wedge ended persuader slid down the keyway to shift it. This link discusses the problem with some pictures of the offending items :- **LINK** . Clive |
John Bromley | 13/12/2017 20:20:43 |
84 forum posts | All fixed! Thank you all for your replies. Clive you were half right. The piston had not got stuck in fact it was quite free. The trouble was due to swarf ingress. The quill had picked up some burrs on the rear most blind portion of the keyway. probably swarf trapped between the quill and the locking piston. These burrs then created a pair of lovely deep grooves in the tailstock bore, making things tight. More swarf had built up around the quill locking lever journals. So long story short...much time spent polishing and reaming... it now functions as it should. Note to self, oil the quill weekly! I also managed to get the job in hand finished today, so the Boss was a little happier. Thanks again guys! |
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