3 cyl Pip engine

I moved the table up to the little end bearing and drilled, reamed 7mm ready to accept a 7mm bush.
Using an m6 mill I then started to form the shape of the rod

The top part of the rod is reduced in thickness by 1/8'' and the lower half is cut to form the angular shape.

Using the rotary table I make the final cut around the small end and this releases
the rod from the billet.

The rotary table is replaced with a milling vice and the slots for the slave rods are cut.

The rod is finished apart from a little cleaning up

Slave rods , starting with two pieces of aluminium milled to the correct thickness

I mounted the pieces onto the mill table and first drilled and reamed the holes for
the big and small end.
Then form the shape of the rod

After making the second rod I made the locating pins out of silver steel , these screw into the master
rod. The bronze bushes are standard shop bought .

The big end bearing is screwed in , then the knuckle pins can be fitted and these stop the big end
from unscrewing.

Pistons, start of by turning some alloy round bar to a smooth sliding fit into the cylinder.
Then carefully put two piston ring grooves and one oil groove.

Transfer to the mill and cross drill and ream for the gudgeon pin

Still on the mill I remove some material from the inside to lighten the piston

Then cut the clearance relief on the piston skirt

Back in the lathe the pistons are parted off and faced up to size.
They are then put in a jig on the mill and the valve recesses are cut into
the top of the piston.

The gudgeon pins are made from silver steel and the bearings are shop
bought bronze bushes.

Piston rings, these are made from cast iron, a piece of round cast is turned down to the same diameter
of the piston bore. Then it is bored out to the diameter of the piston ring grooves plus a couple of thou
for clearance.

Then each ring is parted off the same thickness as the ring groove.
The rings are very brittle so to split the ring I placed them over the edge of a triangle
file and pressed down until they snapped.

The rings need heat treating , to do this I made a small 'oven' out of the same cast iron.

the oven is loaded with rings which holds them open for a 'ring gap'

The top is fitted and the whole 'oven' is heated to cherry red and then allowed to cool.

Hopefully when the rings are removed they will stay with the gap formed and have
a little 'spring'
The rings on the bottom are heat treated , the rings above are not.