Stuck clutch - Mk2 Super 7

Not quite sure what you are asking. The small nut is a lock nut. You can remove it and adjust (I did, and lost it). I think the thread is screwed into the steel drive nut. If too much is sticking out, it means you have over-compressed the clutch spring and this locks up the thread. You only have to turn it a little to unlock it and then it is easy to adjust with a screwdriver ... if you still had a slot in the end.

Anyway Jack you have answered my question that the hexagonal nut is not responsible for retaining the Push Rod - probably the Drive Plate (you call it the "Drive Nut" is threaded and does that job. Therefore as long as one is not going to screw the Push Rod entirely through the Drive Plate (which one would only do if one was trying to disassemble the clutch plate) then there is no chance of spring & rod flying around the workshop. However can one be absolutely certain as DMR initially implied the drive plate is not threaded (" On no account remove the nut off the end. It is in about the right place and the steel drive plate behind it seems to have some how got itself screwed into the pushrod", whereas Michael Poole implies it is ("the main problem is to apply enough torque to the push rod to screw it back through the drive plate. If the assembly is off the machine try holding the thread in copper soft jaws in a vice then turn the pulley and clutch assembly by hand". Any further thoughts? Adam

I do not know why my pc is putting this quirky smiley face into the text instead of brackets. Apologies!

Michael, I have aluminium soft jaws on my vice - would that work or would that damage the thread whereas copper soft jaws would not?

All sorted now. I removed the countershaft with clutch plate attached, gripped the thread in the aluminium jaws of my vice, twisted the pulley assembly to slacken of the push rod, then put the countershaft back in the housing locked in place with the circlip, with end blocked off by clutch lever in situ, released the push rod and spring completely, removed the countershaft, knocked the clutch plate out and cleaned it up (edges a bit gummy), reassembled back in the countershaft housing without the clutch lever in situ, partly drilled a square hollow bar to seat the end of a 5" rod pushing the push rod in, attached 2 G-clamps to the square bar either side of the push rod, and gently pushed in the push rod to the correct thread position turning the pulley by hand to wind on the thread, then some more in order to be able to be left with enough room at the clutch lever end to slide the clutch lever back in, then reassembled and slackened off the thread to correct position. Very simple really. The key really was the use of aluminium (or copper) soft jaws, and the understanding that the uncoiled spring still stays comfortably within the countershaft to enable easy recompression

Edited By Adam Harris on 20/04/2014 17:48:38

This thread has been a great help , I have managed to purchase a super 7 at a silly price and the nut and the locking bolts are missing ( along with the tail stock saddle and motor ) great project